I'm looking to buy a road bike for commuting. There is a guy near me who finds older road bikes (e.g. from the 80's) and fixes them up. Are there downsides to getting an older bike (assuming it's had a proper tune up) compared to getting a bike released in the last year?
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The last major technological improvement in standard bicycles was indexed shifting. The indexing part of this isn't that big a deal, but the feature also gives you the ability to shift under load (which is a big deal). I'm thinking this change occurred in the late 80s, but my memory for chronology is poor.
Yes, since then we've gotten V-brakes, carbon frames, "compact" cranksets and a few other things, but they're not fundamental changes, just minor refinements (if that).
Re "non-standard" bikes, the biggest change has likely been the improvements in geared hubs. These have gone from 3-speed, don't-dare-shift-under-load-or-you'll-wreck-it models to multi-speed or continuous models that encourage you to shift under load.
There has also been progress in recumbent technology, but I don't think there've been any game-changers (though I'm not up on this).
The main problem with a bike more than 15-20 years old is that replacement parts get harder to find. In particular, if you buy an older bike you might want to buy a spare rear cluster right off, to have on hand. And I wouldn't recommend buying a road bike with 27" tires, since replacement tires (of the narrow "racing" variety) will be hard to find.
They are better if you're willing to invest a good deal of money. It depends on your situation. Is your commute asphalt-only or does it include dirt or snow? Will you only use it to get to and from work, or also for groceries and the occasional one-day or multi-day tour? Are you in a flat area, or are there steep slopes around?
I'm using a high-end touring bicycle for my daily commute, 9 km one-way with 120 m elevation difference, in a sub-Arctic climate; here we have 7 months of snowcover, temperatures dropping below -20°C and occasionally down to -40°C, and deep deep darkness. In those circumstances I ride along a 2-lane road frequented by some heavy trucks. Those circumstances, combined with the fact that I go on the occasional multi-day trip, led me to invest in a decent bicycle, because lights, gears, winter performance and durability are key issues. Theft risk in my area is very low.
Some relevant new technologies may include:
Now, whether you really need that is a different question. A 20-year old indestructable steel frame may be exactly what you need. In principle the aforementioned items can be installed on an old frame (except for the belt drive), but IMO that would be silly, because if you're willing to invest a lot of money you can just as well get a proper new frame as well. It all depends on your wishes and priorities.
To answer your question will most likely also be a matter of personal taste. I am also one of the "not much new of interest in the last decades". The notable exceptions are:
Just about everything else you could get as well many decades ago as today, or even better. Some recent technology I would try to avoid includes
The spare parts aspect for classic bikes is not a real problem if you choose the bike wisely. Most ca. 20...25 years old road bikes will be very serviceable with parts you can easily get. Modern bikes are not always better: Just have a look at "modern" bottom brackets and ask yourself what has a life span of more than five years...
This is a bit of a subjective question, and at the end of the day you are best off trying a couple to compare, as you need to feel comfortable on it.
The main difference is in technology - at the top end, dramatic improvements have been made in materials, bonding, flexibility, weight etc., and these do trickle down to consumer bikes. Spares for older bikes may also not be as available.
If you are a normal, every day commuter, a well maintained bike from the 80's may be absolutely fine, but a more modern bike might be a bit lighter, a bit more able to soak up bumps, have better gearing system and this may make the difference if you are using it every day.
Getting an older well-made and well-maintained bike is preferable in a city in the Netherlands. Modern bikes are made lighter and with less material; they tend to be less robust.
I currently have a second hand bike from the 80's with 3 gears, and drum brakes that use levers and iron bars instead of cables. The only thing that I have to replace form time to time are the tubes.
The older 80´s road bikes (especially the low end ones that were called "training bikes") often have massive tire clearance. This means that you can run bigger and more comfortable tires, in the +30mm range or run narrower tires with full length fenders.
I don't completely agree with some things that have been said here.
If you like old bikes, if you want it for the looks, go for it. It is a perfectly good reason, lots of people buy and maintain old bikes because they are classier and prettier. There is nothing wrong with it, your passion is perfectly respectable. I personally think something like this is absolutely gorgeous.
Just be careful when picking one, because age and rust attack the frame and components, so you should be careful that the frame is not too rusty if you want to recover it, and inspect the bike for cracks every week or so.
On the other hand, while it is (arguably) true there hasn't been a huge advance in bike mechanics in the last years, it is also true new advancements in materials, manufacturing techniques and mechanical principles make new components much better and durable.
I guarantee you a new, 2015 derailleur will last much longer than a new one made 25 years ago. It will because even though the mechanical principle is the same, a new derailleur has better bearings, better isolated, and the whole construction is more solid meaning there are less tolerances when it is shifting which will end up making it perform better and last longer.
This is true for all other components, but mainly for ones that have movement: hubs, headsets, cranks for example.
The better quality in modern products will also be more noticeable when you are using the bike, as it will feel more solid and flex less under hard pedaling, brakes will work better, wheel will flex much less, etc.
Of course if you compare an old Dura Ace derailleur (some of the best) with a super cheap one sent to you from China for $10 the old one might be better, but if you compare a 25 (from the 90's) year old Dura Ace with a modern Tiagra (some of the cheapest Shimano makes), I guarantee you the new one will perform much, much better. I have used them side by side and 25 years of evolution make a big, big difference.
Just look at them, old and new. See how different are the brakes for example? More material, less flex, better bearings, a mechanical principle revised for decades, all means they will last longer and perform much, much better.
As true for most things, using an older vehicle (car, motorcycle, boat, bicycle) means you will have necessarily less performance and more maintenance costs. I am not saying an older bike will make you go bankrupt, and it will last if you treat her well, but trust me, there will be a difference.
If nevertheless you want to go for the older one, I can't do anything else but pay you a nice, cold beer when I see you with it.
I grew up riding steel lugged Cromoly framed road bikes from the 1980s. I still do. Mid range to high end steel framed bikes are getting much harder to find now since they really stopped building and selling them over 20 years ago. So buy one quick before they start demanding competetive "vintage classic" prices. The bike manufacturers are SERIOUS JERKS for discontinuing steel frames. STEEL BIKES ARE THE BEST .... BAR NONE!!! Weight weenies be damned!!! Your best bet is to get a sport touring bike from the 1980s off craigslist (I have a 1986 Trek 310 Elance I bought for $200 in 2014. Excellent condition with 100% factory original parts. I lucked out on this find). Sport tourers are basically 2/3 racing bike, 1/3 touring bike. They were the best sellers in the late 60s till late 80s but weren't great quality until the 1980s. They have sidepull brakes with performance wheels but with a higher usually #36 2.0g spoke count vs. #32 1.8g spoke count, which makes the wheels much stronger, especially if you're heavy. The best thing about these bikes is they have slightly relaxed frame geometry with a slightly longer wheelbase with a slightly curved fork, but not too much that it decreases performance. You can actually race these bikes quite fast and ride them all day comfortably. They absorb roadshock better than any road bike made today (probably due to forks are all straight now on new bikes with no curves to absorb shock, another idiotic "modern improvement in bicycle design"). The tire clearance is wide so wider tires and fenders are an option. They have rear dropout rack/fender eyelets and front dropout fender fork eyelets and all the braze ons you find on modern bikes. The frames are usually crmo double or triple butted and the tubing is brazed to actual lugs making the frame practically indestructible and most importantly REPAIRABLE. That Sherman Tank durability is worth bearing the burden of the extra 2-3 pounds difference compared to a modern aluminum or carbon frame. The ability to "modernize" the bike with a compact or triple crankset, brifters (brake lever shifters) and 10/11 speed gearing is possible if you know how to build wheels simply by swapping out the rear hub and spreading the rear dropouts from 126mm to 130mm, which is easy and will not damage a steel frame. If you can't build wheels and the wheels on the bike are still good you can still find plenty of inexpensive 6 or 7 speed freewheels on ebay but the gearing options are less than cassettes (the 13-28 7 speed freewheel linked to a compact 34/50 crank is my favorite gearing upgrade compared to the 40/52 crank 14-28 freewheel on a sport tourer or 42/52 crank 13-21 or 13-24 freewheel you find on 1980s racing bikes). I'd buy at least 2 freewheels with the lowest gearing your derailleurs can handle because freewheels probably will be much harder to find soon. New 7 Speed Brifters can still be found on ebay (8 speed ones are more available and will work ok but not perfect with 7 speed freewheels. I'd advise buying triple vs double brifters (left side brake/shifter) because a triple brifter can be used on a double crankset and you wont have to buy a new brifter for a triple crankset). Used 6 or 7 speed index shifting downtube shifters can be found on ebay. If you are over 200 lbs. you may want to consider replacing your rear wheel's quick release and installing a strong solid crmo rear axle (found on ebay) if your hub is freewheeled and not a cassette (freewheeled hubs have the bearings inboard of the freewheel resulting in possible axle breakage). You can pretty much swap out All THE COMPONENTS with modern components EXCEPT the headset which will be 1" treaded vs. 1 1/8" non threaded if you keep the original fork. You may have to find a 22.2mm stem and 25.4mm or 26mm handlebars and longer seatpost if the ones on the bike are not the right fit for you. These can all still be found on ebay. I "modernized" my 1987 Raleigh Technium with 75% new and used parts for about $400, new stem, handlebars, brifters, saddle and completely new modern compact drivetrain gearing pushing the absolute limits of the stock derailleurs. I had an awesome set of old school 36 spoke campy/mavic clincher wheels on hand to complete the upgrade. I think this bike's better than a comparable $700 brand new bike, even if the frame's paint is nicked up a bit. It gives it character and every now and then I get other cyclists checking it out. They know I've been cycling and wrenching for a VERY LONG TIME!!! Its just like restoring a classic musclecar or vintage motorcycle. My best advice is to LEARN TO WRENCH YOUR OWN BIKES. I CAN'T STAND THE "BS AT THE LBS" (Local Bike Shop). It's pretty sraightforward fixing your own bike and the personal satisfaction you feel is liberating. There's lots of Youtube videos on the subject. For about $100 you should be able to buy every bike tool needed for completely tearing down and rebuilding your bike. Actually it will become your hobby being an amateur home bike mechanic. Just make sure you ride your bike more than you wrench it. Screw the new bikes. They aren't built to last. They are built to be replaced every 5 years. A quality Cromoly Frame will last a lifetime. The 2 kilo weight savings is not worth the loss of DURABILITY AND DEPENDABILITY!!! P.S. - If your bike find has 27" wheels vs. 700c wheels buy at least 3 to 5 spare tires. Only 1 brand of 27"x 1" tire is still being sold and 27" x 1 1/8" are really hard to find. 27" x 1 1/4" is easiest but not easy to find but wider than 1 1/4" is a bit harder. Most of these tires can be bought for under $20 to $30. Avoid the gumwalled and get all blackwalled tires, kevlar belted (not beaded) preferably (for puncture resistance). Quality aluminum 27" rims are practically extinct, so be careful and avoid potholes and riding in floods because you'll have to switch to 700c wheels if you destroy these wheels. You may have to fabricate dropbolts for your brakes or replace your brakes too when switching to 700c wheels, but probably not, Also your bottom bracket will be 4mm lower with 700c wheels so if you have 175-180 crankarms be careful while pedaling and cornering. 700cc rims are 622mm diameter vs 630mm diameter for 27" rims. Buying wider tires may raise your bottom bracket back to normal. Again BUY A QUALITY MID TO HIGH RANGE CRMO STEEL FRAMED BIKE, EVEN IF YOU SACRIFICE WEIGH SAVINGS AND MODERN PARTS. You can always upgrade it with modern parts ... and does 3-4 pounds really make much difference anyway if you aren't racing COMPETETIVELY? - Mike - Another P.S. - MAKE SURE to TEST RIDE your bike find. Ride it no handed to see if the fork was bent in an accident. It should ride straight no handed and shouldn't pull to either side if the fork is straight. Really visually inspect the frame to see if it was in any accidents. Any serious dents or cracks forget it, Minor dings are ok especially on the middle of the 3 main tubes due to the thiness of the butted tubes as long as there are no cracks and the frame appears in alignment. Check the forkends and rear dropouts for cracks. They tend to bend if the bike was disassembled and shipped and if bent too much they crack if bent back. Bring a long string with masking tape and tape the end of the string to 1 side of the rear dropout and wrap it tight around the headtube and all the way to the opposite rear dropout and tape it so its taunt. Measure the distance of the stretched string from each side of the seat tube. The distance should be equal both sides or the frame (probably rear triangle) needs to be bent back in alignment. If the difference is 1-2mm it may be worth fixing but only if the bike is steel ... MAYBE if the price of the bike is cheap and you feel you can do it. If its over 2mm you should thoroughly visually check the frame for cracks and serious bendage and damage and don't buy it unless the price is worth the loss. Also consider the safety aspect. If you don't ever ride downhill at screaming speeds you could live with a not perfectly aligned bike if the bike is very low priced. I wouldn't invest any real money into it until you fix and perfect the alignment issue though. Steel bikes are bendable and alignable ... to a point. Also make sure the wheels are true (no excessive side to side or up or down wobble when spinning the wheel). Use the brakepads as a guide. Within 2mm out of true is ok and easily fixable. Squeeze pairs of the spokes together all the way around the wheel and see if they have sufficient tension. Tap each spoke with a screwdriver and listen to the tone, you should hear a "ping" not a "thud" to ensure adequate tension and the tone of each spoke on the front wheel should be very close. The rear wheel is different - the right side spokes will have a higher pitch than the left side spokes. The right side spokes' pitch should be close, the left side spokes' pitch can be off some but not super loose, no "thuds") Check the wheels' spoke ends, especially the rear wheel to see if the spokes are pulling the spoke holes or hub holes so tight as to crack them, especially the freewheeled side. Many wheels, especially rear wheels, the spokes are overtensioned so tight, cracking rim spoke holes but sometines hub spoke holes. Also check to see if the chain fell between the freewheel and spokes on the driveside of the rear wheel. If the spokes are chewed up next to the freewheel all the driveside spokes need replaced so you better know how to build wheels or pay $BIG MONEY$ at the "BS LBS" who may or may not know how to properly build wheels. They may be true but not spoke tensioned properly, especially if using the same used rim. Eyeball the rear derailleur hanger (where the rear derailleur screws into the frame) to see if its bent (the rear derailleur cage pulleys should be at a 90 degree angle to the ground when the bike is perfectly straight upright at 90 degrees to the ground), and if its bent make sure it can be bent back and the derailleur hanger isn't cracked. The frame and rear wheel are the most expensive parts of the bike. If they are good and the bike has other issues, you can get the price down and still get a great bike with parts that need replacing that are probably inexpensive. - Mike