Related question, I haven't bled the brakes (again a possible error).
I bought the bike as second-hand and the seller said that the mineral oil cannot be the problem. He said that
the mineral oil in the brakes is one-year-old and his dealer instructed to buy a new bike (so I got mine 2-3 years old, driven 10k km). I cannot really trust the words so the rear brakes (no problem with front brakes) may have discolored oil, a thing to watch for according to Shimanos' guide. The caliper is Shimano BR-M485, and apparently other parts are proper (not verified), original Crescent Sport bike brakes apparently (not verified). I haven't yet checked that the brake pads are over 0.5mm as instructed but I feel it is not the problem, speculating. So possible errors:
- not bleed the air from the brake system
- discolored oil
- not tighted some knob(?)
- too worn-out pads
- weather: perhaps some water in the tank and it freezes or oil vaporizing
- unknown factor (?)
So why would you hydraulic brakes stop working in cold weather? The question is a bit confusing -- the problem started during cold winter and it persists in room temperature. I have earlier repaired inner hubs so is the procedure the same: break thing up to logical pieces and then follow Shimanos insructions or have you found better ways to repair broken hydraulic disk brakes? Again, the term
broken is ambigous, the brakes work in a way that you need to press a lot more but now they feel
loose (not with the front brake).
- Could someone explain what the term
bleedinghere actually mean?
- Must I really use Shimanos' mineral oil and not some cheap substitute?
- Which minimum equipments are needed to repair|maintain the-brakes?
Tips to maintain the disk-brakes on low budget welcome.