I was hit by a car and now the steerer of my Reynolds 753 aero fork is bent.
Is it possible to bend them back? Would that be safe?
I can't afford a new pair!
If by "steerer" you mean the top tube that turns in the bearings, it would be very bad for that to be bent, since it would seriously muck up the bearings, and ever getting it straight enough to NOT muck up the bearings would be unlikely.
Apart from the bearings, with something like a conventional steel fork the twin concerns are fractures in the steel and fractures in the welds and/or castings that hold everything together. Generally if the bend is ONLY in the length of the metal tubing of one or both fork tines, the likelihood of a fracture is pretty small. But it's so hard to be sure that there are no beginning stress cracks in a weld or casting that using the fork (with or without straightening) is risky.
If an attempt is made to straighten the fork, it's important that it be done carefully, in a way that will not put further stress on welds and castings.
I will tell you how I have 'fixed' bikes with crash-damaged forks in the past:
turn the bars round 180 degrees and swing the bike square on into a concrete wall.
Incredibly this 'technique' works remarkably well, and is quite fun to do with someone else's 'pride and joy', but, as of yet I don't think I have had the pleasure of using this 'technique' on anything above a Reynolds 501 fork. It works very well on 'hi-ten' but I have no idea about 753. But it is all steel, right?
Anyway, I share with you this 'technique' because, if you are going to try and 'bend it' then it works out a lot better than more 'scientific' approaches involving vices, scaffolding poles and such. The problem with is the tubes deform too easily so you cannot clamp them.
The only slight problem with the 'concrete wall' approach is that you can lack the will power to do it and any feeble-minded effort will result in pancaking the wheel. If splitting logs with an axe is one of your preoccupations then go for it. What have you to lose? (Well, the frame, the front wheel and your wrists...) But, as for the steel, it will bend back without too much fatigue damage, the hard part is actually doing it accurately. Hence the 'concrete wall' approach - tried and tested.
If you are a wimp when it comes to the 'concrete wall' challenge, also consider looking into getting a horrid cheap fork in chrome steel of some vague ch-mo flavour. You can get them for £25 or less and, if you were to ride your bike blind-folded you would be none the wiser that you had swapped out the front fork. Cutting down a fork to fit and getting the lower bearing race on is again not for the faint-hearted, unless you have the proper tools that is. I would recommend phoning round your local bike shops and seeing what they can do for you.
With an affordable fork in place you can look into getting some carbon fibre or 753 effort that will better compliment your bike.
Hope that helps and hope you are okay after you crash!