Reducing saddle bounce when increasing cadence

Question

Trying up my cadence, but noticing a fair bit of saddle bounce.

Few things that could be contributing.

• I use toeclips over cleats
• saddle height (thou I'm at the sweet spot of full leg extension without strain)

Is there any techniques/exercises to reduce this or am I simply trying to increase my cadence too fast too soon?

Answer 1

I think the most useful measure would be to improve your spinning technique, by spinning itself.

That would require a lot of self-observation, and a lot of self-discipline, in order to perceive in which conditions the pogo-effect manifests itself:

• Which cadence;
• Which power-output;
• Which pedal/leg position cause the "jerk" and the bouncing.

A nice way to do that without too much rocket science is to add some cushioning to your ride for some time, be it baloon tires, suspension fork, suspension post, soft-sprung saddle, and the like. Train with one of these for a while, until you're satisfied. I think suspension-seatpost is the most direct and cost-effective choice for this case.

With one of these "devices", the bouncing effect would be increased a lot, and you will be forced to discipline your rhythm so that the bouncing stops or at least gets diminished.

I had a lot of unintentional training with that during my mountain-bike years, in a time suspension forks didn't have lockout systems. I think it worked fine, and if you do it consciously, perhaps it works even better.

Hope this helps.

Answer 2

It is a matter of both fit (frame-geom, saddle position, stem & cranks), practice, and gearing.

Everyone has a max RPM after which they start "bouncing" and you'll find this RPM is even lower if you're at a relatively low gear.

Assuming the bike fits you properly, raising your max RPM is simply a matter of practice. This can't be done at will in one session. It is a motor skill that has to be trained by drills and observed for progress. Informally you can try forcing yourself to ride at lower gears than you're used to. Over time your body kinematics will become more efficient and your form will improve (bouncing will start at higher and higher RPM's).

A cadence of 100 without bouncing is achievable by almost anyone who tries for it. Elites on a track have motionless backsides at cadences of well beyond 150rpm.

Answer 3

Proper saddle height is usually said to be set where your knee is between 5-15 degrees. If you are at 0 degrees but not straining, you are still locking your knee and this could cause the pedals to push you up off your seat. Try dropping it an inch or so and see if it does anything to help.

That said, if you like to ride at full extension then do it! I ride a lot more aggressive terrain and will not raise my seat past the point that both my feet are planted flat on the ground and was chastised for it being too low (by someone who almost got run over by a bus a few days later because he couldn't reach the ground). Don't let someone else tell you how to ride!