Hot answers tagged 7-speed
There are basically four solutions that do not involve extensive work on your bike: Roll up the pant-leg on the gear-side high enough to stay away from the gears. Wear tight fitting cycling pants that don't flap. Use braces as you have, or clips such as these to keep your flappy pants close enough to your legs. Stuff the pant-leg on the gear side in your ...
I have found that the top of and old sock over a neatly folded trouser leg works well.Cut the top of the sock long enough to cover your pants with leg fully extended to the top of the sprocket.The plus side is you don't ruin good socks stretching them over your pants.
The hub is adjusted too tight, or there is damage to the bearing track which cause higher than normal friction when the bearings are compressed. You're on the right track.
Simple: Just take two rubber bands and stretch them around the bottom of your pants. Done! :)
I had the same problem (48x38x28 chainset). It turned out that MF-TZ21 is actually not a 'cassette', but a 'freewheel'. Your options for that are very limited: In the UK, Raleigh is distributing a 7 speed 13-24T model for less than 10 quid. SunRace is still producing 7 speed freewheels, but the closed-spaced 12-?? model wasn't distributed in the UK: Check ...
The 14/28 is the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cog of the cassette. From your description you want to make at least the second number smaller, possibly the first number. As long as your replacement says that it's Shimano compatible (and 7 speed), you should be fine. Count the teeth on the cog that has the most teeth that you actually ...
Cold setting a 114mm to 130mm is significant. Usually the rule of thumb for cold setting is you can go up one step, such as from a 126mm to 130mm or 120mm to 126mm. A three speed freewheel bicycle is extremely rare and I'd personally leave it alone, it's just too valuable to risk destroying the frame.
As you suspected, you may not run a 7 speed free hub with a 9 speed hub shell. You will need a new 9 speed free hub, and continue to use the spacer ass you have been. Hubs are not generically sized. Each model is sized for the number of gears it is expected to work with. Replacing the freehub will mess with your dropout spacing, or the position of the ...
Pretty sure that the MF series has the freewheel integrated with the cassette, so if you are going to a "pure" cassette, you will need to replace the freewheel and possibly the hub. You would need to replace the hub if you can't find a conversion to a non-integrated freewheel for your current hub. If the hub gets replaced, that could affect the disk as ...
When I was a teenager, the "tight roll" was in style. Nowadays I use it nearly every day to keep my pants out of the chain. It works better than anything else I've ever tried, is totally free, and you don't have to carry anything around with you. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tight_rolled_pants And here's a video about how to do it: ...
This product should work, Leg Shield. Covers your pant leg from your ankle to right below your knee. http://www.bikelegstrap.com/
In addition to velcro and clips, you can use "slap bracelets." Badge holder lanyards from conventions work well, too (but only the ones with alligator clips). Wrap it once around, put the clip end through the closed end and pull it tight. The clip will hold it tight. (pics later)
Get a 8 - 12" piece of velcro, loop side, then adhere a 3" self sticking hook side on the end of the inside. Tuck and wrap. $1.50 cost. I have had mine for 5 years, using it almost daily with no issues.
As long as you're not adding larger cogs than you've got on right now, your existing chain should be a functional length. One more thing to consider is that if your current chain has significant wear, running it with a new cassette can damage the cassette (effectively very rapidly turning your "new" cassette into your "old" cassette), so even though your ...
Personally I would not stretch it that far. Aside from spacing you should check if your frame has derailleur hanger, and cable stops. Lastly you would have to ensure proper chain line after the stretch, possibly requiring BB and/or crank set change.
8 speed shifter and cassette, 7 speed derailleur? You'll be fine. There's no "probably" about it. 6-, 7- and 8-speed gear is all cross-compatible in terms of chain width. The only time you'd hit a problem is if the shifter and the cassette weren't made for the same number of gears, for example you could imagine a scenario (e.g. 7-speed cassette, 8-speed ...
Sheldon Brown to the rescue: http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ba-n.html#block Short for freewheel block; cluster. My understanding is that the bike has 7 speed shifters and for some reason 8 speed freewheel. Only 7 cogs work, so the seller is planning to switch to 7 speed freewheel. 7 and 8 speed freewheels nearly same distance between cogs, so wrong ...
Edit: First question, why did you replace the derailleur? Rear derailleurs don't really care about # of speeds - its the shifters which change the cable pull to move them around (so mixing shimano and sram can cause problems due to different amounts of cable pull). By RD not aligned with gears, do you mean the hanger / cage are bent? If so, go to your LBS ...
Pretty much it doesn't matter - as long as the derailleur is comparable in brand and general "shape". The derailleur doesn't really care how many gears you have! The two things that have to be the same as (or compatible with) your old one: Cable pull ratio - each "click" of your shifter pulls the cable a certain amount, and the derailleur has to move by ...
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