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You do this with a tool called torque (sometimes called dynamometric) wrench. Without a tool you can estimate it this way: Make yourself familiar with a weight of 1 kg Apply the force with your simple wrench 10 cm from the bolt in question This will give you 1 Nm of force. To get 5 Nm, use 5 kgs of weight or increase length to 50 cm. The math is simple: ...


The B-screw controls the body angle of the derailleur. It pulls the pulleys away from the sprockets, so you don't rub against them. If you set it in the largest rear cog (as you should), when you're adequately clear, you don't have rubbing. Its a somewhat insensitive adjustment once you clear the cogs, but the closer you are to the loosest screw value ...


They aren't necessary, but they are a great help to properly aligning your wheel in the dropouts in an efficient manner. If these screws are adjusted correctly, you'll be able to just put your wheel in, pull it all the way back and tighten your axle nuts and your wheel will be arrow straight in the frame. If not, You'll need to manually align your wheel each ...


I don't think so, as long as you have correct cable housing and ferrules where you need them, there's no problem having multiple barrel adjusters. If you know how to use them then there's no downside to having three in my opinion. Try it and let us know!


With out a photo it is hard to tell. Jagwire does make inline adjusters. They have different types, that adjust differently. Check the Jagwire website or ask at the LBS where you got the bike for assistance.


If the derailleur is old, the internal spring which is meant to swing the derailleur out away from the cassette might be worn to the point that it is no longer able to keep the derailleur far enough out. You might be able to replace the b limit screw with a longer screw in order to make it work.

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