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15

I can think of a few possible explanations: If you're sitting too upright, vibrations from the road/trail (anything from pavement quality to serious potholes) will travel straight up your spine, causing your the gaps between your vertebrae to expand and contract. This can add up on a long ride. Ideally you want to be leaning forward enough that your back ...


14

For use at home, there's no question that separate keys are more useful and more economical. A multi-tool has limitations that make it cumbersome to use in tight spots because all the keys are attached to the tool. Separate keys suffer no such limitation. Separate keys can be bought and replaced individually and very inexpensively -- not so with a ...


11

A front derailer is a bit more complicated than it looks, and can be quite complex to adjust if you're starting from zero -- just having installed the unit. There are five (and a half) adjustments -- Height, sliding up and down the seat tube. Rotation around the seat tube. Low limit High limit Cable tightness Generally height is such that the derailer, ...


11

To crudely simplify things, a triathlon/TT bike position is much the same as a road position, but basically "rotated forward", so your arms rest atop the very-low-set bars. A consequence of this is, the seat ends up further forward. (source) Using Chris Froome's TT position as an example, noting the hip position versus the bottom-bracket position: ...


7

Those pads do look ever-so slightly too high on the rim, the main danger being that any slight vertical eccentricity could result in the pad contacting the tire and causing a blowout. There are two main solutions: Firstly, you could use a round file and simply file out the bottom of the slot slightly to increase the clearance. This works best if you only ...


7

The B-screw controls the body angle of the derailleur. It pulls the pulleys away from the sprockets, so you don't rub against them. If you set it in the largest rear cog (as you should), when you're adequately clear, you don't have rubbing. Its a somewhat insensitive adjustment once you clear the cogs, but the closer you are to the loosest screw value ...


6

It sounds like your headset is not adjusted. Your stem cap is used to adjust this. Specifically, the more you tighten the stem cap, the tighter the bearings will get, and the less play you will feel. Here is a picture from Sheldon Brown's article on adjust headsets: My process for checking headset adjustment: Check the headset adjust: Grab the front ...


6

A problem many hit when trying to straighten the stem is that they end up aligning the stem with the bike while the wheel is almost straight. A degree or two isn't noticeable until you are riding and then it really bothers you. Instead of trying to align three things (bike, stem, wheel), turn the wheel about 45 degrees. Now align the stem (I generally do it ...


5

It sounds as if you adjusted the barrel adjuster out too far, the last time you adjusted it, and damaged the threads on the adjuster. When the shop cleans and lubes it, it is fine for a few days, and then gets stuck again, because the threads are cross threaded or stripped. If the damage is relatively minor, it can act normal until it is under a little ...


5

I have a similar problem, and there's one thing that oddly affects it: Whether I wear prescription glasses or contact lenses. With my glasses, I have to bend my neck a little more to see the road ahead, and this has an effect on rides longer than an hour. With contacts, I normally also don sports sun shades, which have a wider field of view and don't make me ...


5

Triathlon bikes are about one thing, and one thing only. Aerodynamics. Dan Empfield, the creator of the Quintana Roo brand, recognized this early on. Cervelo came along soon after, and their designs basically changed how time trial bikes are viewed, with their breakthrough design of the P3 in 2001 (Company history here.) This P3 design evolved, and there ...


4

That style of drum brake relies on friction between steel and leather. If it is setup to stop reasonably well, they will always make some noise. Quite often, when new, they do indeed howl like Baoine Sidhe. This will get better with use. From the photos, it appears your brakes are fairly new? Assuming that they are actual photos of your bike... Rubbing ...


4

I measured five quill stems that I have, three steel and two aluminum. The overall lengths vary from 5 1/2 to 6 1/4". The minimum insertion length was 2.5 to 3.0 inches. There was not a consistant ratio of length to minimum insertion. It is possible that the insertion length increased on newer bikes due to safety/liability concerns. If you haven't got at ...


4

It is the black piece about 2 inches from where it enters the down tube. That is the barrel adjuster, but in line adjusters can be difficult get started adjusting, as often they come from the factory with the 2 halves of the barrel adjuster turned tightly against each other. That makes it appear to do nothing, when in fact the reason it is doing nothing ...


4

Looks like there's an adjuster in-line, right before the cable enters the down tube.


4

Tip of the day for how to adjust brakes so they dont rub when tightened: Use shims on either side of the disk! Here's how to do it: Get a beer can and cut a strip about an inch wide and 6 inches long (careful when using this, it's sharp) Take the wheel off the bike, loosen up the hex cap bolts on top of the calliper, not the wheel, adaptor, etc Put the ...


4

Lever throw is how much the lever moves in total. Cable slack is how slack the cable is, ie. how much you have to pull before the brake pads start moving. Park Tool says: Squeeze lever to test caliper brake. Adjust lever modulation setting by moving pads inward or outward from rotor by using both pad-adjusting knobs. To maintain the 2:1 ratio, turn the ...


4

The pain at the top of the kneecap is classical patellofemoral pain syndrome -- the most common knee problem. The most direct treatment is simple strengthening exercises for the secondary muscles supporting the knee joint so that the kneecap remains properly positioned -- such exercises can provide relief in 48 hours or less in some cases. But you should ...


4

The answer is trigonometry. Most bikes have a headset angle of about 74°, give or take a degree. Over the adjustment range you're looking at that degree doesn't make a difference. Here, tan(74 degrees) = height change / reach change = ~3.5. So to get a centimetre of reach change to need to lift the stem 3.5cm, putting the stem up reducing the reach. Or you ...


4

I suggest that you go to your local bike shop and see if you can test ride a modern bike. As Daniel says $500 will not get you far. A test ride of a couple of bikes at different price points will help you decide. You may find that your "retro" bike is OK after all. Or maybe that it never did fit you properly. But a new bike could be 5kg lighter than what ...


4

Something to keep in mind, it's not unusual for a SRAM chain to not play well with a Shimano cassette. A lot of times you'll get lucky and the two will work well together, I used to run SRAM chains with my Shimano cassettes all the time without much trouble. But there are just some combinations that just cause problems, even intermittently from run to run. ...


4

The high and low limit screws don't affect the shifting between the cogs - they just tell the derailleur not to throw the chain into the spokes or out into the frame. Theoretically, this is a set once and forget it adjustment. The B screw will keep the derailleur from rubbing on the cogs and should be set on the largest rear cog. If you put in the same ...


4

As @Batman says, 2mm is VERY little clearance on a bike. It is more likely to be the frame flexing (more so the chain and seat stays) causing the tyre to move around a bit. I would see if there is a way to mount the stand a little further forward on its bracket. You want to create as much distance as you can between your stand and the tyre as possible. ...


4

If there's no barrel adjuster, then you'll need one installed. Ask LBS to do that or do it yourself: Get an inline barrel adjuster and two 4mm ferrules. These are pretty cheap. Get tools to cut cable housing. Make sure there is enough shifting cable left to accomodate extra 3-4 centimeters added by adjuster. If it's too short, get a new cable. Detach cable ...


4

I noticed the same thing when I first got a B17. I fiddled with various angles and so forth, but in the end I found it's mainly just a matter of getting used to the smoother feel of leather as compared to the plastic you're used to. You slide over leather more easily, especially if you wear typical bike shorts, and this gives you the sensation that you're ...


4

I don't think so, as long as you have correct cable housing and ferrules where you need them, there's no problem having multiple barrel adjusters. If you know how to use them then there's no downside to having three in my opinion. Try it and let us know!


4

This is normal. The procedure is called trimming. It allows you to move the front derailleur cage a bit to prevent the derailleur cage rubbing on the chain due to the changing angle of the chain when shifting in the rear.


4

The tensioning or retaining spring, the small black loop in the last image, at 4 o'clock on the upper jockey pulley, should be clipped behind the protrusion on the cage that is visible in the top left corner of the red frame on the second image. The spring has probably lost tension from age. Putting the spring on that second notch will increase the tension. ...


3

I've had this problem with more than one bike, and risk factors for that are: Quick-release hubs (as opposed to 20 mm, thru-axle); Long travel forks; "Light" or otherwise delicate forks (even good quality ones); Mechanical brakes (one pad non-moving); Large-diameter (8 inch) disks. The problem is that, due to the very tight distance between the disk and ...


3

@Arbalest has the correct answer for one specific problem with brakes with just one cylinder, If that is not it, the best way would be to reset the caliper alignment. I am not expert, theres heaps of information on how to do it - the owners manual is a good start - it's not hard, but a novice may need a couple of goes at it to get it spot on. Essentially, ...



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