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15

I can think of a few possible explanations: If you're sitting too upright, vibrations from the road/trail (anything from pavement quality to serious potholes) will travel straight up your spine, causing your the gaps between your vertebrae to expand and contract. This can add up on a long ride. Ideally you want to be leaning forward enough that your back ...


12

For use at home, there's no question that separate keys are more useful and more economical. A multi-tool has limitations that make it cumbersome to use in tight spots because all the keys are attached to the tool. Separate keys suffer no such limitation. Separate keys can be bought and replaced individually and very inexpensively -- not so with a ...


11

A front derailer is a bit more complicated than it looks, and can be quite complex to adjust if you're starting from zero -- just having installed the unit. There are five (and a half) adjustments -- Height, sliding up and down the seat tube. Rotation around the seat tube. Low limit High limit Cable tightness Generally height is such that the derailer, ...


9

To crudely simplify things, a triathlon/TT bike position is much the same as a road position, but basically "rotated forward", so your arms rest atop the very-low-set bars. A consequence of this is, the seat ends up further forward. (source) Using Chris Froome's TT position as an example, noting the hip position versus the bottom-bracket position: ...


6

It sounds like your headset is not adjusted. Your stem cap is used to adjust this. Specifically, the more you tighten the stem cap, the tighter the bearings will get, and the less play you will feel. Here is a picture from Sheldon Brown's article on adjust headsets: My process for checking headset adjustment: Check the headset adjust: Grab the front ...


6

Those pads do look ever-so slightly too high on the rim, the main danger being that any slight vertical eccentricity could result in the pad contacting the tire and causing a blowout. There are two main solutions: Firstly, you could use a round file and simply file out the bottom of the slot slightly to increase the clearance. This works best if you only ...


5

Triathlon bikes are about one thing, and one thing only. Aerodynamics. Dan Empfield, the creator of the Quintana Roo brand, recognized this early on. Cervelo came along soon after, and their designs basically changed how time trial bikes are viewed, with their breakthrough design of the P3 in 2001 (Company history here.) This P3 design evolved, and there ...


4

I have a similar problem, and there's one thing that oddly affects it: Whether I wear prescription glasses or contact lenses. With my glasses, I have to bend my neck a little more to see the road ahead, and this has an effect on rides longer than an hour. With contacts, I normally also don sports sun shades, which have a wider field of view and don't make me ...


4

That style of drum brake relies on friction between steel and leather. If it is setup to stop reasonably well, they will always make some noise. Quite often, when new, they do indeed howl like Baoine Sidhe. This will get better with use. From the photos, it appears your brakes are fairly new? Assuming that they are actual photos of your bike... Rubbing ...


4

It is the black piece about 2 inches from where it enters the down tube. That is the barrel adjuster, but in line adjusters can be difficult get started adjusting, as often they come from the factory with the 2 halves of the barrel adjuster turned tightly against each other. That makes it appear to do nothing, when in fact the reason it is doing nothing ...


4

Looks like there's an adjuster in-line, right before the cable enters the down tube.


4

I measured five quill stems that I have, three steel and two aluminum. The overall lengths vary from 5 1/2 to 6 1/4". The minimum insertion length was 2.5 to 3.0 inches. There was not a consistant ratio of length to minimum insertion. It is possible that the insertion length increased on newer bikes due to safety/liability concerns. If you haven't got at ...


4

Lever throw is how much the lever moves in total. Cable slack is how slack the cable is, ie. how much you have to pull before the brake pads start moving. Park Tool says: Squeeze lever to test caliper brake. Adjust lever modulation setting by moving pads inward or outward from rotor by using both pad-adjusting knobs. To maintain the 2:1 ratio, turn the ...


4

A problem many hit when trying to straighten the stem is that they end up aligning the stem with the bike while the wheel is almost straight. A degree or two isn't noticeable until you are riding and then it really bothers you. Instead of trying to align three things (bike, stem, wheel), turn the wheel about 45 degrees. Now align the stem (I generally do it ...


4

I suggest that you go to your local bike shop and see if you can test ride a modern bike. As Daniel says $500 will not get you far. A test ride of a couple of bikes at different price points will help you decide. You may find that your "retro" bike is OK after all. Or maybe that it never did fit you properly. But a new bike could be 5kg lighter than what ...


3

It sounds as if you adjusted the barrel adjuster out too far, the last time you adjusted it, and damaged the threads on the adjuster. When the shop cleans and lubes it, it is fine for a few days, and then gets stuck again, because the threads are cross threaded or stripped. If the damage is relatively minor, it can act normal until it is under a little ...


3

Assuming you mean that the disk caliper pads are rubbing on the rotor when the lever is not being used/squeezed: 1) The fixed/non-moving pad/side in the caliper on my brakes are adjusted with an allen key from that outer side of the caliper. If it has been a while this bolt could require some effort to get moving. On my brakes there is a detent such that I ...


3

Congratulations on starting to do your own repairs. The first step is realizing some thing is wrong (you seem to have got that one). Step two try to fix it. Step three learn why step two didn't work. I use the Parktool BigBlue Book as my guide. I bought mine at a local bookstore but it is available on their website for free. As for not having a repair ...


3

You should have a fair amount of fore/aft adjustment on the seat rails without changing seatposts, unless you're already at the limit. I might try sliding the seat forward a little before giving up on that seatpost.


3

The inline brakes are called interrupter brakes, or cross brakes. It almost sounds like the pull of your inline cross breaks is meant for V-brakes, while your STI's are set for cantilever. From the details you provided, its hard to say what is going on. If your brakes are set really loose, then both levers would bottom out before engaging, or would be ...


3

Tip of the day for how to adjust brakes so they dont rub when tightened: Use shims on either side of the disk! Here's how to do it: Get a beer can and cut a strip about an inch wide and 6 inches long (careful when using this, it's sharp) Take the wheel off the bike, loosen up the hex cap bolts on top of the calliper, not the wheel, adaptor, etc Put the ...


3

Your wheel is out of true, this happens under normal conditions as spokes stretch. You're going to need a truing stand, some lubricant, and a a spoke wrench. (I've heard you can use zip-ties attached to each side of your wheel fork, facing inward, then cut to size, but I don't think this makes for very accurate measurements.) Most bike shops I've worked ...


3

Because you're cross-chaining -- creating a bad chain angle. With any dual derailer bike the chain angle is straighter if you use big front cogs with small rear cogs and vice-versa. And with bikes with lots of rear cogs the chain angle can get bad enough to cause this situation. Basically you need to learn to avoid cog combos that create a bad chain ...


3

The pain at the top of the kneecap is classical patellofemoral pain syndrome -- the most common knee problem. The most direct treatment is simple strengthening exercises for the secondary muscles supporting the knee joint so that the kneecap remains properly positioned -- such exercises can provide relief in 48 hours or less in some cases. But you should ...


3

The answer is trigonometry. Most bikes have a headset angle of about 74°, give or take a degree. Over the adjustment range you're looking at that degree doesn't make a difference. Here, tan(74 degrees) = height change / reach change = ~3.5. So to get a centimetre of reach change to need to lift the stem 3.5cm, putting the stem up reducing the reach. Or you ...


3

A new road bike won't be any more comfortable and will probably put you in an even more aero position. If you still have all original parts, you might want to get new stem, bars, levers, and hoods which will make it more comfortable to ride on the hoods, and the new bars are wider which is also easier on the hands. A stem that angles up a bit can also help ...


2

(Looks like this is a road bike with cantilever brakes?) The problem with interrupter brake levers is that there isn't a way to adjust them independently of the main brake levers. Normally to make your brakes more sensitive you would shorten the brake cable, but this will affect both levers -- so if your interrupters are snappy already, they'll become even ...


2

The bolt that runs through the brake has a couple of flats on it just in front of where it meets the front fork. You can put a spanner (of the thin variety) onto these and align the brake. That is the proper way to do it, but this is not always practical. The other approach is to tighten the allen key bolt at the back of the fork and then undo it by a ...


2

When you ride a motorcycle or bicycle you have your neck in a chin up posture. When most people walk which is most of the time or sit and work at a desk (the rest of the time), either walking or sitting you are in a chin down posture. Try riding in a chin down using the top of your eyes or focusing up a little with your chin down. I learned this riding a ...



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