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1

I had this issue last week. Have a look at your rear derailleur and check it can go through the whole range of movement. Its possible that the spring has gone or the hanger for the jockey wheels has seized and won't move correctly. If this is the case try some degreaser on it, dry and add lube. If you still have the problem it may be easiest to replace the ...


4

The high and low limit screws don't affect the shifting between the cogs - they just tell the derailleur not to throw the chain into the spokes or out into the frame. Theoretically, this is a set once and forget it adjustment. The B screw will keep the derailleur from rubbing on the cogs and should be set on the largest rear cog. If you put in the same ...


4

Something to keep in mind, it's not unusual for a SRAM chain to not play well with a Shimano cassette. A lot of times you'll get lucky and the two will work well together, I used to run SRAM chains with my Shimano cassettes all the time without much trouble. But there are just some combinations that just cause problems, even intermittently from run to run. ...


7

The B-screw controls the body angle of the derailleur. It pulls the pulleys away from the sprockets, so you don't rub against them. If you set it in the largest rear cog (as you should), when you're adequately clear, you don't have rubbing. Its a somewhat insensitive adjustment once you clear the cogs, but the closer you are to the loosest screw value ...


0

I always use a spreadsheet to make stem, spacers and handlebar calculations. I find it makes best sense when comparing one setup, that exists and I have used, with another that might be real or hypothetical. Here's an example where I'm considering changing the Pro Vibe 7s on my track bike to a Deda Newton deep drop and if I need to change the stem and/or ...



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