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8

Thru axles not only keep the wheel in place, they also strongly join the right and left dropouts together. This structurally reinforces the component either being it a fork or a rigid/suspended rear triangle. This simply makes the bike able to handle greater forces before failure, because it distributes forces between both sides of the structure. It also ...


7

The hub is adjusted too tight, or there is damage to the bearing track which cause higher than normal friction when the bearings are compressed. You're on the right track.


6

Looks like an attaching point for some kind of trailer, maybe a single wheel trailer.


5

Those counterlocked axle nuts are binding together more tightly than the threads are on each individual nut, and thus staying counterlocked against one another. Usually this isn't the case and when you put a wrench on the outside nut on either side of the hub, one of the outer nuts will break free. As you're seeing now, not always the case. You need a box ...


5

Keep it lightly greased where it comes into contact with the hub bearing races and dropouts. This helps get it in and stops it seizing against the dropouts (the axle and dropouts are alu).


5

There is supposed to be a locknut on the axle, as well as the cone. When adjusting the bearings it's important to get the locknut quite tight against the cone, so that the pair cannot rotate on the threaded axle. As you've found, if the cone can rotate then it will, from the rotation of the wheel. The left side will get looser (but will be somewhat ...


4

Yes - if you change to a 15mm or 20mm though axle, you will need a new hub to suit. Keep in mind that bike carries that you remove the front wheel and use the QR will be not be useable as well. Apparently the benefits of the though axle out-weigh the disadvantages of incompatible parts etc. However I would think hard before "upgrading" away from QR and ...


4

The claims are that the through axles offer a stiffer fork, giving more precise handling and performance, over a 9mm QR. 15mm through axles evolved as a lighter alternate to the 20mm ones - which are heavy and overkill for XC and most all mountain riding, with a similar weight to 9mm QR but the stiffer performance. At the highest end (both bike and rider) ...


4

This is easily accomplished, simply replace the axle from your wheel with a QR axle, at most you may have to cut an axle/skewer to length and maybe cut more threads if you can't find an axle and skewer with enough thread on it. But you'll need to be comfortable with cutting metal and have the right die set. If you try shopping around for a 120mm rear QR ...


4

By far the most likely reason is that you've over tightened the bearings. Did you feel as if you needed 3 hands to get it back together? If not, you did it wrong. :) As usual Sheldon has a pretty good writeup on this, but the basics are easy enough. Put one side back together, tighten it up as best you can. Set the cone on the other side to the correct ...


3

Simply for your two points: For a front wheel you can buy or machine a part that will allow you to run a smaller axle on the front than the hub is equipped with. This an adapter to run a 15mm TA hub in 9mm drop outs. The rear is more difficult as hub sizes get wider with larger diameter thru axles. You couldn't make a 12x142 thru axle hub fit in a ...


3

There a good chance that the combined cost of the parts you need will exceed the cost of the bike. The Next brand is a brand sold at discount retail stores. They retail for around $125. Many of the parts are not available as new replacements. The easy method is to say throw it away. There are some alternatives though. Many cities have programs called ...


3

Most of times the axle is broken when not accurately jumping with bike (the same is with obstacles on road like holes and speed bumps). Wheels with freewheel are more exposed to this because their bearings (i.e. the place where wheel touching the axle) far from the place where the bike touch the wheel, therefor it have more moment to brake the axle. To the ...


3

I have replaced probably three or four axles like yours in the last few months. It is fairly easy; the only special tools that you need are usually cone wrenches (very skinny wrenches to hold the cone-nuts in your hub). The axles are cheap (maybe 10 bucks or so online). You will also need a regular 17 or 16mm box wrench. Is your axle a quick release (it is ...


3

I've seen this issue in the past and the culprit was the axle (not the skewer) in the hub had snapped. Fortunately, the bike was still rideable to a certain extent, as the QR skewer was holding the two broken sections of axle in place. Note that even when the wheel was removed from the frame, it still wasn't immediately obvious that the axle had snapped, ...


3

First things first, make sure you have the specific 'cone' spanners for the locknuts (these are just thin, 2-3mm thick, spanners). They're probably 14/16mm on the front and 15/17mm on the rear. This is one of many jobs that you'll need specific high quality tools for :) Secondly, from the look of it the front cones have rubber dust seals over them, these ...


3

They both look pretty standard to me. Normally you remove the lock nut and cones from one side. The bearings should be visible and fall out (careful to catch them all.). The axle should then just push through to the other side. If you can see the bearings (or they fell out), a gentle tap, with a light hammer may be needed (although i cannot imagine why) to ...


3

I have figured out two options: The less elegant option is just putting some washers on the end of your axle, such that they lie between your locknut and the dropout when the wheel is installed. You have to fiddle with the washers every time you take off your wheel, but they will do the job. If you want to avoid that, you have to put them inside the ...


3

The reason for the bent axles is primarily due to your riding a bike with a freewheel. Freewheels (as opposed to a freehub) have a length of unsupported axle on the drive side of the bike that is vulnerable to bending. That is the primary reason why freehubs were invented. As the bike industry moved more and more gear sprockets (6, 7, 8) this meant a wider ...


3

I don't think all Maxle's are the same, but I've had two different types and each could be tightened in a slightly different way. With one (I believe an older design) there is a 6mm hex bolt on the lever end which you can tighten/loosen to affect how tight the lever is. See an example of this here: ...


3

This is not a 'legitimate' reason to avoid quick releases. Just like anything in life, there are low and high quality offerings, and there is good and bad luck. Your friend either has a low quality wheel or bad luck. The bar for quality on a BSO is pretty low, so even if his is nicer than yours, it might still not be high quality. All my wheels besides ...


3

My guess is that by the time the first bottom bracket (crank axle) was replaced the left side pedal arm was also damaged. When you installed the damaged crank arm to the new axle it worked for awhile. You are now at the point that you have a worn arm and a worn crank axle. Replacement of just one of the components will result the premature failure of the ...


3

Either your cones are coming loose, or the bearings are absolutely fried. I had this same thing happen to me when I was first getting into bikes. The hub was loose, I tightened it, I went for a ride, the hub was loose again. I finally got up the nerve to take the hub apart (yeah, I was pretty n00b back then). The cones and cups were damaged unbelievably. ...


3

You should have no issues from a frame stand point. Just make sure you keep a good chain line and you're good to go! There are lots of 1x10 QR bikes out there. And with the popularity of the 1x10 these days your options will be abundant. Also you will want to look into Narrow/wide chainrings for the front if you haven't already. With a good one a chain ...


2

A standard, non-exotic QR axle can be easily replaced with solid. In fact, many bike shops would have the replacement axle in stock. It does require fairly complete disassembly of the hub, though, and a touch of skill in properly "pre-loading" the bearings on reassembly.


2

http://surlybikes.com/parts/hubs_v1 says "This is a common size so it’s easy to find replacements should the need arise or to swap axles if, for instance, you have a QR axle and want to go solid", so it should be easy enough. Based on the photos, you might want some cone wrenches even though with cartridge bearings there aren't actually cones as such. As the ...


2

If your LBS mechanic looked at it, and said it wouldn't work, why would any of us second guess a professional on a project which can't even look at? There are many reasons I can think of why doing so is a bad idea, even if it works technically. The biggest reason I can think of for it not working technically is that an axle for a sealed bearing hub has ...


2

Not much maintenance required. Just apply grease very lightly on the axile before inserting, make sure it is a thin layer evenly spread on the whole length. This helps for insertion and prevents seizure. We don't want seizure here, as it is a pain to get out the stuck through axile.


2

It sounds like your Rear wheel is sliding around in the rear dropouts and you wind up loosing tension on the chain. It's really a common thing on single speed and fixed gear bikes, you should make sure the tension is set properly when you ride. If you have rear facing horizontal dropouts (track dropouts) that go straight back, then the axle can slide in ...


2

I'm not 100% certain how the DT Swiss centerlock works but it seems like its a way to attach a 6 bolt brake rotor to their hub. What may have happened is that since your center lock was lose: it allowed the rotor to work against the 6 posts on the adapter causing some wear it allowed the adapter to work against the hub, also causing some wear. I'm not ...



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