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The claims are that the through axles offer a stiffer fork, giving more precise handling and performance, over a 9mm QR. 15mm through axles evolved as a lighter alternate to the 20mm ones - which are heavy and overkill for XC and most all mountain riding, with a similar weight to 9mm QR but the stiffer performance. At the highest end (both bike and rider) ...

Yes - if you change to a 15mm or 20mm though axle, you will need a new hub to suit. Keep in mind that bike carries that you remove the front wheel and use the QR will be not be useable as well. Apparently the benefits of the though axle out-weigh the disadvantages of incompatible parts etc. However I would think hard before "upgrading" away from QR and ...

First things first, make sure you have the specific 'cone' spanners for the locknuts (these are just thin, 2-3mm thick, spanners). They're probably 14/16mm on the front and 15/17mm on the rear. This is one of many jobs that you'll need specific high quality tools for :) Secondly, from the look of it the front cones have rubber dust seals over them, these ...

They both look pretty standard to me. Normally you remove the lock nut and cones from one side. The bearings should be visible and fall out (careful to catch them all.). The axle should then just push through to the other side. If you can see the bearings (or they fell out), a gentle tap, with a light hammer may be needed (although i cannot imagine why) to ...

http://surlybikes.com/parts/hubs_v1 says "This is a common size so it’s easy to find replacements should the need arise or to swap axles if, for instance, you have a QR axle and want to go solid", so it should be easy enough. Based on the photos, you might want some cone wrenches even though with cartridge bearings there aren't actually cones as such. As the ...

It sounds like your Rear wheel is sliding around in the rear dropouts and you wind up loosing tension on the chain. It's really a common thing on single speed and fixed gear bikes, you should make sure the tension is set properly when you ride. If you have rear facing horizontal dropouts (track dropouts) that go straight back, then the axle can slide in ...

So, chains aren't very different from tires in the sense that, they have to be replaced regularly, especially when you are commuting regularly. During summer and fall when I commute and race the most it's not unusual for me to replace my chain every other month. Chains get worn out, they stretch, they start to skip and behave poorly. If you haven't replaced ...

Read this. The QR skewer when done up increases the bearing pre-load. Correct bearing adjustment requires a slight wobble when the wheel is off the bike, which stops when the wheel is installed and the QR Skewer done up. Its a bit of trial an error getting it right for the first few times.. It may also be incorrect bearing size - are you sure you used ...

Because you said you have changed the chain a couple of times, I guess the problem is not again in the chain, because you would have it replaced. Hence my guess is that you have to replace the rear sprocket. The drive train wears in all its parts, but because of different mechanical functions and characteristics, some parts wear faster than others. After ...

If your LBS mechanic looked at it, and said it wouldn't work, why would any of us second guess a professional on a project which can't even look at? There are many reasons I can think of why doing so is a bad idea, even if it works technically. The biggest reason I can think of for it not working technically is that an axle for a sealed bearing hub has ...