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7

As to measuring belt tension, the tool is your best option. If you own the bike, then you should own the tool. Without it, however, place an S-bent spoke or similar wire in a hook over the center of the top of the belt. Add weight to the bottom hook. 10 pounds is the spec. Yes, this is a lot of weight for a bent spoke. Be creative. Or buy the tool. Place ...


6

There are chainguards that work with derailleur bikes. Your belt might be wider than a chain, but it isn't wider than a triple :-) Something like http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hebie-chainguard-for-triple-ring-systems-with-a-48t-outer-ring-prod19993/ (If you've got a 52t chainring, it might be trickier to find something that will fit.)


5

Oil leaking from the hub has been an ongoing problem for me too. When the bike was still new there was an oil leak from the gear changer side which went to Shimano (twice) before the internal seal was replaced (the external seal was replaced the first time to no effect. Over a year later the leak started again and this time Shimano have had the wheel for ...


5

What are other properties with belt-drive chain? Main differences compared to using a chain: belt does not need lubrication (less maintenance) as it is not lubricated, it attracts less dirt, and is cleaner, even if it is exposed (less danger to mess up clothing) it has more friction/power loss than a chain (but less than a badly-oiled chain) it ...


5

I've never ridden a belt-drive bicycle, but I've ridden both belt and chain drive motorcycles and the belt drive is considerably smoother and quieter. One of the features being used to tout belt-driven bikes is that they don't require lubing, so that would be a plus. In addition to not needing to take the time to properly lube your drive-train, the lack of ...


5

It depends Belt drives require some mechanism to prevent the belt slipping off of the sprockets sideways. Early generation belt drives have guides on both sides of the sprocket to keep the belt from sliding off. This can definitely lead to snow, mud or other debris getting trapped in the sprockets, getting packed in tighter with every revolution, and ...


4

Everything stretches under load. How much is the question. The belt manufacturers should have technical data, including stress/strain graphs, modulus numbers, or other "hard" numbers. But, generally speaking, carbon fiber and steel both have a modulus of around 200. It's not clear now much carbon fiber is in the belts (and the cross-section area times ...


4

Belt drives can't be used with derailleurs so the bike will be single speed or need an (expensive) hub gear. There were some cars that used a belt drive, usually with a v-belt and split pulleys to give a continuously variable gear - haven't heard of any bike doing this.


4

There is now an iPhone app to measure belt tension of a belt-drive. Here is Gates blog post about it, and here it is on iTunes Preview They say they are working on an Android app but this has to take into account the variety of microphones on Android phones. They will probably have to test and calibrate for each make and model of Android phone.


4

(I know that this is an old question, but nobody has answered it with real-world experience.) I have a 'Scott Venture 10' as a suburban utility bike since two years. I don't ride it as much as my road bike, but it has seen its share of use. It has a carbon-fibre reinforced drive belt, and Shimano Alfine hub gears. There a couple of advantages that I can ...


3

It was the seal on the Alfine Hub leaking. The local service agents for Spot were able to correct the leak by tightening the external seal on the hub and cleaning everything around it. No cost. The hub is currently performing well. I'm as worried about it as I was when I made the decision to buy it, a new model of anything so complicated is likely to have ...


3

The belt drive on my Srida gathers lots of wet snow, making it completely useless throughout the entire winter. In addition, if the temperature is around 0 degrees, the bicycle parts are prone to icing, which is the major problem for the belt drive too. See also another customer review


3

I have been riding a Gates CDC (not Centertrack) belt drive for almost a year now. Gates claims that tension adjustments are not necessary over the lifetime of the belt drive. My experience does not support this claim. One of Gates' claims is that the belt does not stretch enough to warrant tension adjustment after a break-in period, as you would on a ...


3

Once the system is set up correctly you will not need to tension it again until it is time to replace the system. There will be a slight drop in tension over the life of the system but it is not enough to require adjusting the tension. When performing a tire change using a bike with sliding vertical drop outs or an eccentric bottom bracket it is not ...


3

For fixed, single speed and hub gears belt drives are great, if slightly more expensive initially. They don't work with derailleurs. The key difference is that as chains wear they also wear the sprockets and chainrings and therefore all need replacing if you leave it too long or don't lubricate often enough. Belt drives are used in many applications which ...


2

I have been riding a Gates CDC (not Centertrack) belt drive for almost a year now. I have ridden my bike in various weather conditions and temperatures ranging from over 90℉ to under 0℉. I have ridden through a variety of snowy conditions, including a foot-and-half of fresh snow on a few occasions, but more commonly mixed snow/ice/slush conditions. I have ...


2

In theory, since the sprockets are so wide, and the belt lacks holes, snow/mud that gets between sprocket and belt will be packed into the notches and could build up if conditions are right. This could build up to where it locks the belt (or damages it, if the rider tries to force the thing), in the worst case. In any case, it's not going to make pedaling ...


2

I've never ridden one but the Carbon Drive Systems website states that: The patented sprokets contain Mud ports that shed even the worst type of debris. Not even snow or mud will slow you down.


2

Three months ago I bought an Avanti Blade 8C (belt-drive, Shimano Nexus 8-speed) and have had problems with noise in the drive train. Belt tension appeared to be associated with the problem. I downloaded the Gates Carbon Drive iPhone app and adjusted the tension so it vibrates at approx. 50 Hz and the noises have (almost entirely) gone away. This value ...


2

A general rule for flat belts is to twist the belt midway between the front and rear belt drives, it should twist to 90 degrees with moderate two finger effort, if it goes past 90, then it is too loose, if you cannot make 90 without great effort, then it is too tight. This method depends on how strong your fingers are and the width and thickness of the ...


2

Look out for the chain line / belt line. With a chain, you don't have to care about this much as a chain will run at quite an angle without problems (derailleurs rely on this, obviously.) The belt will be much less tolerant of a chain line that is not straight. With the pre-centertrack belts the alignment between front and rear sprockets needs to be within ...


2

The biggest hurdle is definitely engineering the split dropout or the separable chainstay. S and S Machine doesn't sell their S&S couplers to amateurs, so the most elegant method of splitting the chainstay proper isn't really available to you. Other methods - using flat stock or other threadings - are likely to provide endless headaches there. Gates ...


2

The Alfine has a chinaline of 42.7mm for a single crank and the Ultegra 43.5mm for the double and 45mm for the triple. For the double the chainline is measured halfway between the 2 rings so the outer ring will be even further out, but the inner further in. Sheldon says "With typical 5 mm chainring spacing, this puts the inner at 41 mm, the outer at 46 ...


2

I'm Ryan with Gates Carbon Drive. The fix is not difficult, but there are a couple of things that I would recommend. Simply removing the 4 chainring bolts is not the best course of action. I would recommend removing the rear wheel from the dropout. If you are unsure about this, we have put together a video here: ...


2

I have a 3 year old Spot with an Alfine 11 with about 11,000 miles on it. The belt lasted about 9,000 miles. The hub started leaking at about the 7,000 mile point, and will currently dump all of its oil about every 400 miles, making for a really greasy belt. The leak is around the inner seal / gear changer cog. The large dust cap seal doesn't leak. As ...


1

Bike radar did a pretty good article on this, which you can find here. My personal opinion is Carbon Drives/Shaft drive are quite fancy but pretty useless. They are more expensive, require specific frames which are usually quite expensive, and their try to solve a problem that simply does not exist. With a carbon/shaft you can only run a single gear hub ...


1

It has to be somewhere you put your hands to lift the bike. Check out the wheel rims. They can collect all sorts of grime when you ride in the wet. Some of it will be ground rubber from your brakes, but most is road dirt. Motor vehicles drop oil and grease, and lots of rubber on the road. If you find that is the cause, the solution is to clean them after ...


1

What you know right now is that there's quite a lot of it and it's quite greasy. Which is useful, but not especially useful. One thing that occurs to me is to question whether someone else might have oiled the belt for you? Has it been in a shop, or do you have someone else in your house who maintains a bike? Is there a source of fumes where you store your ...



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