Hot answers tagged bike-fit
14
If this is your first bike, go to your local bike store and have them fit you professionally. Then, ask if they have loaner bikes so that you can get a feel for the size of the bike before you invest. Some people prefer bikes on the smaller side and some prefer them a bit larger. You'll get a definite feel for this over time, but I wouldn't recommend ...
8
Frame fit
Primarily, a bike fits if you can position pedals, saddle and handlebars relative to each other so that they match your body's proportions. Secondarily, when these contact have been set, other frame parameters should fall into place so that the riding characteristics are as desired. That includes e.g. toe clip overlap, stand over height, bottom ...
7
Copied this from a saddle mfg website: How to measure your own sit bones
Of course the measure you really want is between the centres of your ischial tuberosities – the pointy lower parts of your pelvic bone on either side. Many bike dealers have a pad that you can sit on to measure this distance, but you can do it at home too.
Take a piece of aluminium ...
7
The idea here is that a frame is typically originally designed in a 56cm frame, or the equivalent median size for the "average size" rider.
When the frame design is tested and finalized, most manufacturers minimize the changes they make when creating the molds for additional sizes.
This can result in small sizes having a harsher ride than the median, and ...
7
Buying a bike without riding it is a terrible idea. Similarly terrible ideas would include ordering a mattress without laying on it, laying down cash for a guitar without playing it, and purchasing bike shorts without trying them on. And I agree that any shop that won't let you test ride a bike is pretty suspicious. I'd try to take my business elsewhere.
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7
Your bike fit should not cause you pain. Back pain, neck pain, knee pain, hand pain, elbow pain, etc are all signs of a problem; they shouldn't simply be ignored, and probably won't just go away on their own. Muscular soreness after pushing extra hard is really the only kind of pain you should get.
I suggest that you:
Get the bike fit to you. Many bike ...
6
If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like you're sitting too far forward on this bike. Whether you're too tall for your frame or not is difficult to diagnose without at least pictures, but you might consider that this bike is simply too small for you. (If you're having trouble getting the handlebars far enough forward, that's a sign that this ...
6
The "natural" riding position would be one with the following criteria:
Your knee never fully extends (locks out) when the crank is at "dead bottom center"; basically in line with the seat tube
You can sit mostly upright when on the flat part of bars. You have a comfortable slight bend in your elbow when on the hoods. You can reach the drops without your ...
6
Bicycle size is determined first by frame size, which is top tube length, seat tube length, and some more minor geometries like head tube and seat tube angle. The primary determing factor for comfort on the bike is your reach measurement.
Although it is affected by various factors, like skeletal flexibility and the type of riding you do, ideal reach is ...
6
It seems odd that somebody wanting to sell a bike to you wouldn't allow a test ride. Most places encourage you to take the bike for a test ride, at least around the parking lot or around the block, and usually with a bike store employee following closely behind. If they can't offer you a test ride, perhaps you could persuade them to mount the bike onto a ...
6
I think it was downright irresponsible of the shop to sell you a bike that so obviously doesn't fit you. They should have done at least some basic fit testing, which clearly they did not. The trouble is, you're at their mercy now. Since it's not a warranty issue, they're not obligated to exchange it. So I would be very polite in how I asked, and I'd make ...
5
The achilles pain and some tightness in the back of the calves comes from ankling too much, by pedaling high on the balls of your feet. I find that I do this when the seat is a bit too high. Lowering the seat slightly and making sure my cleats are positioned more toward the center of my foot as opposed to toward the toes helped me to alleviate this.
Try to ...
5
There does not seem to be a universal standard for bike sizing. Due to the variety of designs and geometry size will vary between manufacturers and intended use, touring, racing, commuting are all slightly different. You often hear about the importance of fit and it's relation to performance and comfort and this is where a good relationship with your LBS is ...
4
Particularly when you're learning to do a skid stop, you need to hop your back wheel off the ground momentarily and then lock your back leg while your wheel is not in contact with the road. Then when your wheel hits the road again, it will skid. You shouldn't need to jam it anywhere against your bike, I'd suggest this is probably a bit dangerous.
It's good ...
4
Without being able to get a larger frame, your brothers suggestions are about the best you'll be able to do.
Do you feel to compact on the bike (arms/hands feel close to your knees when pedaling)?
pushing the seat back and longer stem will allow you to stretch out.
You can purchase a longer seat post if needed, they even make offset seat posts that would ...
4
Since Bhell posted an excelent answer that deserves feedback, I am posting this "answer" of mine with some observations. I think it could help people with the same doubts, in the future.
First of all, I enjoyed the pragmatic approach to bike fitting, instead of a somewhat questionable numerology I've been seeing around lately. Also, the rationale starts ...
3
You can use a bike that's "too small" or "too big" without too many problems, so long as you set it up properly for your own biomechanics.
Try using this fit calculator instead: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO
Compare the bike you really want with the results of the calculator. It will give three separate options, and ...
3
Some say that if you can't have less than a "fist-full" of seatpost visible (>10 cm), the bike is probably too small. This is probably not a bad rule of thumb to start with.
If you would post pictures of you sitting on the bike, with the drive-side pedal at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, and 6 o'clock, that would be the best. It will be clear, then, if this is too ...
3
Rivendell bikes argues that most road bikes sold are too small. They're probably in the minority opinion as far as bike shops go, but they have (collectively) a lot of experience in frame geometry and riding styles.
Their argument is based on their belief that most shops assume that road riders should emulate racers -- experts who are willing to put up ...
3
Don't shove your legs against the steering bar. Not only can this cause an injury, but it immobilizes you slightly and gives you a lot less control overall. For that moment your leg(s) are pinned you can't do very much and if you start to tumble it's going to be bad.
The wet pavement advice is the best. Learn to hop it and get the skid started, but never ...
3
This video may help you -
Certainly made me more comfortable on my road bike.
Summary:
Comfort is rule #1
Adjust the seat height so that the knee makes a 10 or 20 degree angle at ...
3
In the BMX world, they use minimum offset or zero offset necks for flatland. The minimum offset options allow you shorter reach without causing problems being backwards. These are some options (the neck/bar combo might not help, but it was shown as examples of options that exist)
In the picture you see a zero offset zero angle bar-neck combo, a minimum ...
3
I think you could ride either size comfortably. You may need to change the stem to accommodate your longer reach, but the range of adjustment for the seat is what you want to look at, not so much the seat tube length. When you look at sizing, the reach is as important as the height. But good fit can be achieved within a range of values; I think it is better ...
2
I've used this method which worked well:
Fill a large size ziploc bag with icing sugar. Icing sugar's fine texture means that it binds together when compressed. This is what we want - it will hold the shape of your buttprint after you get up.
Close the bag making sure to squeeze out the air.
Place on hard chair.
Sit while assuming the degree of forward ...
2
You should be able to lock up your back wheel without jamming your leg against part of the bike. It's especially easy if you skip the back wheel a little.
You'll stop faster if you don't force a skid, just move your weight back and resist as hard as you can.
Install a brake, damn it.
2
Biking has actually alleviated my Achilles/heel pain. I have the arch of my foot more or less over the middle of the pedal. I am so grateful for it now.
A smaller frame allowed me to lessen my back pain, I was too far from the bars (dropped effective top tube length ~.6'' and that did the trick. The seat position is also important. Change this up and down ...
2
I am no expert too, having doing personal bike fits after reading hundreds of website make me more confused than better.
Anyway, after two years of adjustment I do finally come close to a best personal fit at this moment.
Bike's fit that works now may change as we age, a year is long enough for that change. Blessed are those who believe on so call bike fits ...
2
Ideally, the ball of your feet (the part just below the toes), should be on the pedal to transfer power to the pedals (efficiently and bio-mechanically healthy).
This is also likely causing your knees to "flare" away from the frame (like a V). You'll want to keep your knee, toes and hip on the same vertical plane. otherwise long term could lead to knee ...
2
The old traditional scheme for sizing a road frame was "standover height". You'd stand with your feet flat on the ground, straddling the bike. If you had "comfortable" (for a male) clearance of the (traditionally-positioned) top tube then the bike was the right size.
I've found in practice that this scheme maybe leads one to select a bike that is slightly ...
2
The top tube length, seat position, stem length, head angle, and bar design together determine "reach", which is the primary criterion here. Stem length also has an effect on stability.
Top tube length and seat tube length generally are tied together (in a non-custom frame), so a shorter top tube implies a shorter seat tube (ie, a "smaller" frame).
You ...
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