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You might find the Geometry of Bike Handling on Calfee Design's site helpful. There are some good articles by Grant Petersen on bike making at the Rivendell site that cover some aspects of geometry and bike design. He also has a good section on geometry in his book Just Ride. Once upon a time there was a nice series of articles on the Rivendell site where ...


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It will depend on the rim width, according to Schwalbe's table of tire size to rim widths you'd be fine with a 17 or 19 mm rim and you'd be pushing it if you have a 21 mm rim.


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The bike would sit about 4 mm lower is the main thing (and technically, the gearing will change slightly). You can mount the tire on there and it will work, but it may not be optimal depending on your rim width; if the rim is too wide for the tire, you may get more flats or rim damage when you hit a road hazard. As for why you want to switch to something ...


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Adding to the answer by @mattnz ... This looks to me like an old frame to me. The steep headtube angle is supposed to be matched with forks that have more forward curve. And it should have drop bars. Here is another Parleigh, built as a fixie (from here): Notice the seat height, and the reach to the bars.


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If there's little stand-over space, then the frame doesn't fit you, and there's nothing you can do except get a new frame. Either get one with a shorter seat tube, or get a "compact" design with a sloping top tube. You can just stop reading here, but I'll answer your other points just because. You can move the seat back, or get a longer stem, or get ...


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The bike was built as a racer and it looks you are trying to make it into a hybrid/Commuter and get a more relaxed riding position. This wont work as the geometry is wrong for that. Have you tried with the seat more horizontal. As it is, it will push you forward. Its also as far forward as it will go - slide if back on its rails. At the same time raise ...


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The geometry of this frame looks odd. 622mm wheels are too large to fit comfortably in a 51cm frame. Usually sizes this small are made to compensate with very steep seat tube angle to let the rear wheel forward and very shallow steering angle to avoid toes clipping front wheel. This bike has been made the other way around and that is why it looks and feels ...


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Because of the era of production, the length of the bike is actually fine, and it's just the hight that is off. Where is the problem then? Saddle too high even when lowered as far as possible? The wheel size is completly irrelevant for that problem. Or are you unable to stand on the ground without your privates hitting the top tube?



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