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0

If you have a choice, go with the BB that has 2 metal sides. That plastic cup is a PITA. The notches in the plastic cup the tool fits in are pretty shallow, too shallow in my opinion. It is tricky to remove or install the plastic cup without using one hand to hold the tool in place. If you let the tool slip the metal tool will do big damage to the plastic ...


1

You have done your homework correctly. You need a square drive bottom bracket with a shaft length as close to 125mm as you can get to fit a 68mm frame. I have taken out quite a few of the plastic cup units with no issues, but I prefer the metal one. But that is just personal choice. Take a look at the area of the chain stay (the tube from the rear axle to ...


1

I installed that Praxis BB30 converter on my Cannondale and I will never look back. I switched to a Shimano hollowtech II crank because that's the one I had lying around. Not only does it feel more rigid, but the bb30 was hopelessly noisy no matter how often I cleaned it, and the Praxis BB has been silent so far, the bearings seem to seal better. So yes, ...


3

I'd say no. If the frame had a screw-in BB shell you could simply fit a tapered axle and bearings. Looks like you'll need a new chainset (that comes complete with axle) - however you could get rid of the cheapo BB71-41A (MTB type - why would anybody fit this?) and fit whatever bearings suit the chainset of your choice


0

A square taper crank set with triple chain rings is a straight forward search item in google, or the local bike shop. If you are aiming for a pure drop in replacement, make sure you get the same tooth count on the chain rings, and the crank arms are the same length. You mentioned the BB is only threaded on one end. I suspect this means you still have the ...


0

I had the same issues with my "72 and '75 Peugeots, although I'm sure this isn't related to just them. The second answer is about what I did and worked better for me. I liberally used WD40 and a cheater on my wrench.


0

That crank is unusual and therefore it is hard to give you advice. It shouldn't be the bearings because they don't usually make a big noise, but rather make the crank harder to move around (you can perfectly feel bad bearings if you try moving it with your hand and feel resistance/side-to-side movement). Can you install the crank without the clutch ...


0

This is one I prepared earlier, the question is slightly different than the original Can I replace chainrings without replacing the rest of the drive train? but the answer suits. You have the same considerations for a selecting a new chainset as this question. Chain line When selecting a new crank set you need to ensure it aligns with the current chainline ...


4

I've got the same problem on (what I believe is) a 2013 3.1. I was going to try replacing/upgrading the bottom bracket myself soon, hoping to smooth out the ride. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find the size online so I'll need to take it out and inspect before I can order a replacement, hopefully this goes smoothly. Either way, I'll update with my ...


8

Without seeing any pictures, I think you'll likely want to replace both, but you can figure it out easily enough. Usually, the bottom bracket will be fine after a crank improperly coming loose. The bottom bracket spindle is typically made out of a hard steel and only the most miserable metal cranks are made from anything other than aluminum, so when the ...


1

You are going to struggle a bit with this one unless you can find the correct BB of that vintage, which is a big ask insofar as Campagnolo didn't make a huge number of these cranks to start with and information on them, even at the factory (with whom we are very closely connected) is very thin on the ground. The biggest problem that you will have is that ...


3

The term for preparing the bottom bracket shell in this manner is called facing, and yes, it is necessary for all outboard bearing bottom brackets for proper function. To understand why this is, lets compare a hollowtech type system to a square taper cartridge. In the square taper, all the bearings and rotating portions are contained into a rigid metal ...


0

A trick that not many people believe but works amazingly is to try and tighten a bolt/nut, or in this case BB before trying to loosen it, and repeating if necessary. I assume this works as it breaks down corrosion or dirt, etc.


1

That is an older style octalink crankset. The documentation is available here for the octalink version and here for the square version. As to what size BB you'll need that will depend on your frame. There are several sizes of octlink BBs available depending on how your frame was manufactured. If you don't have your old BB available with a legible size on ...


1

So I ended up bringing the bike into the shop. The friendly bike mechanic had let me borrow and old bottom bracket tool because they didn't have any other tools in stock. Long story short, he ended up using a 6 foot pipe on his bottom bracket tool to get it to move. The tool by itself did no good and the impact wrench did nothing. I think I'm going to buy a ...


2

Assuming you've got the right direction you're turning and its still not budging, use some penetrating oil and/or borrow a breaker bar/vise (and use it carefully). One of the things with your style of tool vs the park tool style of tool is that you can't get as much torque on. In the case of aluminium, its conceivable that theres some corrosion, but ...



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