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1

What's your frame made from? If its carbon, might be time for the LBS. If its steel then start with easing oil for a couple of days followed by a leverage increase using your pipe. The main danger is exerting too much force and stripping threads. I'm assuming the cartridge is toast which is why you're removing it. If its a beater steel frame, you ...


1

Since you provided only a photo of the non drive side it is difficult to say for sure how many spacers you need. The number of spacers will vary with bottom bracket width and derailleur type. The spacer is needed to apply the preload on the bottom bracket bearings. This requires that the crank arm be butted up against the bearing. Then the plastic nut in ...


4

Space for squirm, plus tolerances. Firstly, cranks are made in many different shapes and styles, and not all are the same thickness. So some slack is left to allow for this. Imagine how annoyed you'd be if changing cranks meant a new BB cartridge or axle? Secondly, modern funny-shape crank/axle joints are less prone to this, but a square taper fitment ...


2

It's not the cranks or bottom bracket (though it sounds like the BB might need replacing anyway) if the chain is moving normally. The crank is fixed to the chain rings with bolts, so that can't slip. It's much more likely that the ratchet mechanism in the rear hub is broken. Older ones work on 2-4 small spring loaded "palls" that engage a ramped gear. If ...



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