New answers tagged bottom-bracket
Power is transferred from you to the pedal, to the crank-arm, to the chain-ring, to the chain, to the rear cog and to the wheel. To do this, the spindle (crank spindle/bottom- bracket spindle) must be held rigidly in place and yet, allow the cranks to turn as friction free as possible. That is the job of the bearings.
You seem to be assuming that "power has to be transferred to the bearings". That is not the case. There is no "interlock". All that needs to happen is that the crank spindle can spin with low friction. As you pointed out, the inside of the bearings is smooth and so is the spindle. I guess it's possible that they slip relative to each other, but so what -- ...
24mm refers to the diameter of your spindle (the rod connecting the two cranks) You can look for more details on this chart: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/images/sizing/FSA___RD_CRANKSET_STANDARD_18x24_20140306_reduced_size.jpg Hope this works for you :-)
If you have a choice, go with the BB that has 2 metal sides. That plastic cup is a PITA. The notches in the plastic cup the tool fits in are pretty shallow, too shallow in my opinion. It is tricky to remove or install the plastic cup without using one hand to hold the tool in place. If you let the tool slip the metal tool will do big damage to the plastic ...
You have done your homework correctly. You need a square drive bottom bracket with a shaft length as close to 125mm as you can get to fit a 68mm frame. I have taken out quite a few of the plastic cup units with no issues, but I prefer the metal one. But that is just personal choice. Take a look at the area of the chain stay (the tube from the rear axle to ...
I installed that Praxis BB30 converter on my Cannondale and I will never look back. I switched to a Shimano hollowtech II crank because that's the one I had lying around. Not only does it feel more rigid, but the bb30 was hopelessly noisy no matter how often I cleaned it, and the Praxis BB has been silent so far, the bearings seem to seal better. So yes, ...
I'd say no. If the frame had a screw-in BB shell you could simply fit a tapered axle and bearings. Looks like you'll need a new chainset (that comes complete with axle) - however you could get rid of the cheapo BB71-41A (MTB type - why would anybody fit this?) and fit whatever bearings suit the chainset of your choice
A square taper crank set with triple chain rings is a straight forward search item in google, or the local bike shop. If you are aiming for a pure drop in replacement, make sure you get the same tooth count on the chain rings, and the crank arms are the same length. You mentioned the BB is only threaded on one end. I suspect this means you still have the ...
I had the same issues with my "72 and '75 Peugeots, although I'm sure this isn't related to just them. The second answer is about what I did and worked better for me. I liberally used WD40 and a cheater on my wrench.
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