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9

There are a few causes for brake 'squealing': New pads. After a bit of wear (or sandpapering), the squealing will stop. Misalignment. As some others have mentioned, misalignment may cause squealing (although it would be reduced with some wear). Check out Sheldon Brown's tips for alignment suggestions. Oil or water on the rim. Either of these substances, ...


7

Sounds that bikes make are difficult to describe. "Fingernails on a chalk board", so sort of a high pitched dry scraping noise, not a squeal, squeak or scream? That sounds like something ceramic, stone or metal rubbing against the metal rim to me. The last loud noise where it then goes quiet could be whatever it is getting turned just before getting ...


7

Brakes have to be toed in. What that means is that the front of the brake pad has to touch the rim before the back of the brake pad. It does not have to be an extreme variance but it will make a world of difference when properly adjusted. Hopefully you have aluminum rims. I have had the misfortune of working on some bikes with steel rims from which I ...


6

I'm assuming Avid BB7 style brakes and not hydraulic. I wouldn't bring the bike back. If you are using skewers on your hub, remember that any slight mis-alignment of the wheel in the dropouts will affect brake disk squeal. Because the skewers are so easy to reset, as well as its pretty easy to turn the red adjustment knobs on the brakes you might discover ...


5

This isn't necessarily unusual for fresh disc pads. Give it a solid 20 miles. Then if you still have problems coming to a stop, take it to the shop and have them look at it. Even still, it's not necessarily something wrong with their work. It might be, if they were clumsy and didn't align things properly or left oil on the pads. But a little noise isn't ...


4

There are a number of simple things you can do to try improve performance before replacing the brake pads. Check the pads to see how worn they are. Here is an example of a new and worn pad requiring replacing. If the pads don't appear to need replacing you can: Lightly sand the pad with fine sand paper Clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol (or any ...


4

In my experience disc break squeal is typically a result of excessive vibration caused by one of three things: Contamination - Brake disc and pads should only be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Give them a thorough wipe down. Poor adjustment/loose components - Try looking at the manufacturers web site for adjustment and torque specifications. Installing ...


3

Check the pads. You just might have some oil or moisture there. Cleaning them with a bit of rubbing alcohol or a specific disc brake cleaner might clear it up for you. Clean the rotors, too. If that doesn't help, you can try replacing the pads, but in my experience if your pads are clean and you're still getting noise from disc brakes, your caliper might ...


3

I'm reasonably confident that this is just another variation of brake chatter. The pads are generally "toed in" so that the front of the pad contacts the rim first, but as they wear that "toe-in" effect is lost, and you get chatter (which can be anything from a high-pitched squeal to a rasping sound). The chatter is caused by the "heel" of the pad ...


3

Take a look at the adjustment of your pads. Sheldon Brown has a great article on how to do this.


2

Before I add my two cents here I'll mention that this post is rather old to be unanswered. If you figured this out already write an answer and choose it as "the answer" so it doesn't show up as unanswered and others can learn from it. So, by "play" you could mean front to back (as in the length of the post/bolt) or around the bushing (as in a difference in ...


2

If you have carbon rims (with a carbon braking surface) you will need appropriate brake pads, so as not to damage the rims. You do not have to use shimano brake shoes- most (possibly all?) rim brakes will take any brand of shoes. There is a carbon rim insert for Dura Ace, which might fit the ultegra shoes. However if there are no compatible pads for your ...


1

According to the Shimano groupset page, both brake options for the Ultegra Di2 6870 groupset (BR-6800, BR-6810) ship with the Shimano R55C4 pads, which are designed for carbon rims. So more than likely, either the brakes are not setup correctly, or the Shimano pads suck.


1

My v-brakes squealed when applied and moaned when riding slow. I tried all of the toe in and out and different pads to no avail. One day I had the front wheel off and notice a very tiny bit of play in the axle. I tightened the bearing cup to snug but the wheel still spun freely. No more noise. Next day I did the same for the rear wheel and now my bike is ...


1

Squealing can also happen if the brake calipers are a little loose from wear and tear. Toeing in will still help but may not completely eliminate the squeal.


1

On my levers I use tight rubber O-rings. I did them myself out of old tube. This levers are easy to disassemble — to get QR pins out just press on them.


1

Is there a chance the rim is wearing out? Have you tried a different wheel? Have you tried toeing the brakes in the opposite direction? It sounds like you've tried just about everything else. I'm leaning towards the wheel being the issue. Otherwise it sounds like the frame is just prone to resonance with the vibration of the brakes. I've got a mtb frame that ...


1

When I had similar problem, I rode to the dealers of my bike and they told me that the reason is my pads. Before, I changed the wheel and made any mistake when I set it back. Workers have eliminated this trouble very quickly and cheaply


1

A potential cause is the alignment of your brake pads. Pads needs to be adjusted and aligned so that the front-edge of the pad hits the rim slightly before the rear-edge of the pad hits--this is called the "toe-in". Improper toe-in results in your brakes very rapidly grabbing and slipping from the rim; this happens fast enough you only hear the effect--and ...



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