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Increased energy (energy goes up linearly with the mass) is one factor, as well as the grippy-ness of the pads. The first option (wheel shape changing) is bogus. However, the true culprit is likely that your your brakes are misadjusted. To quote Sheldon Brown: "A brake with high mechanical advantage will apply a lot of force to the brake shoe for a ...


I wouldn't worry about the viability of old brake pads, unless there is something obviously wrong with them.


I would be inclined to use a coarse wheel on a dremel tool. Brace either the tool or the work (in this case the work, i.e. the brake pad, being small, might be easier to brace). Use consistent pressure to avoid undulation. A few passes should do.


Indefinitely. Do inspect them. Some poorly made ones can get hard or brittle. I've only seen than on mounted (unused) pads though, which are more subject to oxidation/sun/contamination etc.


Slice it off with a sharp knife if it is really big because a file will take too long and sometimes the large mass of rubber gets stringy on the edge with a file. Then file the whole pad flat. Re-surfacing the pad is part of normal brake pad maintenance. You want to remove glazing, uneven wear, and debris. Pick out and deep metal chunks with a sharpened old ...


The usual cleaners for rims are: citrus cleaner simple green isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) dish soap and water You may want to try them on your frame. Also, you may want to try a different type of brake pad to see if they reduce the dust (e.g. kool stop salmons).


Since no answers I will post my comment as an answer Car wheel cleaner. It is made to deal with brake dust. But I would not user car wheel cleaner on paint. For hard to clean on paint I use a cleaner wax.

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