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5

There are two ways: 1. Deflate the tyre, put the wheel in, re-inflate. I had to do like this in the old days. 2. There are tension release devices you can put in the cable-housing. Shimano amongst others sells those for their direct-mount rear Dura-ace brakes that don't come with release levers. (item SM-CB90) The alternative would be new brakes indeed.


3

Original MTB brake lever designs did not include a rotating barrel inside the lever to account for the change in angle as you apply the brake, so the wire end needed to be round to accommodate this. Road bike brakes have had the interior rotating barrel for a very long time. If the wire end does not rotate, the brake wire will be flexed in a "coat ...


3

If the "noodle" doesn't clip in right and seems like it is sliding through the "noodle holder" when you apply the brakes, then you might have messed up the noodle holder when messing about with the boot. There should only be a small gap in the top, just wide enough for the cable to go through. If there is a larger gap, you can try squeezing it either with ...


2

According to Shimano's website, they are non-series components. However, some websites such as this one claim they are Ultegra quality (This wouldn't surprise me with Colin's answer). In any case, none of the Shimano long reach calipers are part of a series anymore. That being said, TRP (e.g. RG957) among others still make high quality long reach calipers ...


2

Actually I think you will find they are Ultegra, circa something like 2009. Since the technology trickles down you will find that they look like modern 105's. Take a look at the CRC product listings for examples of both the modern Ultegra and the old BR-650. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brakes?f=2259 Note: the 2009 is a guess based on ...


2

No, these brakes have nothing to do with Ultegra. A lot of unscrupulous Ebay sellers put unrelated keywords into the title to get more search hits. It's against Ebay rules, but it's pretty widespread, unfortunately.


2

I think it depends on your frame, I have a 1973 Peugeot UO-8 which I replaced the 27inch wheels with 700 28CC and even replaced the handle bars with modern alu bars from MEC. The seat is now a Brooks and because the seat post tubes on french bikes are smaller I had to use a BMX chromoly post. My bottom bracket is a new square one from Velo-Orange instead of ...


1

The 'black thing' is just a boot to keep dust and dirt out. Cutting it off will not have caused any problems with the brake. Is the noodle (The tube the cable goes though) sitting correctly in the hole on the brake caliper?


1

I agree with @Daniel R Hicks. Those pads aren't terrible, but they're obviously not new either. New pads are cheap, so go ahead and throw a new pair on and see if it helps. It's also possible that the pads are worn enough that even when you pull the lever in all the way they fail to make good contact with the rotor. Are they mechanical brakes? That ...


1

I have a Surly Long Haul Trucker which came stock with dropbars and Tektro 992 “Oryx” brakes cantilever brakes and levers. I have now switched out those cantilever brakes out for Avid Single Digit 7 v-brakes and to specifically answer your question fitted Cane Creek Drop V brake levers. These are not integrated shifter levers but, so I still have my bar-end ...



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