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8

Most are set up with one lever that works two brakes at the same time. There are lots of different styles, such as this one for example. You can see that it has 2 ferrules instead of 1, most commonly used on dual disc brakes. There are other models that differ somewhat visually but the idea is the same. Many Trike levers also have a push button locking ...


7

Caliper brakes attach differently to V brakes, they have one pivot bolt in the centre rather than one each side. In your first photo there's a bolt that is in the right place although it's there for a mudguard/fender not a brake: A caliper brake actually needs a hole right through there, and has a long bolt that goes right through. On your bike there are ...


6

Can I use a 9 speed shifter with a 7 speed drivetrain, with good shifting and without needing complex adaptations? Kinda, maybe, sort of... its complicated You could use a Shimano 7 speed derailleur with a 9 speed shifter, if you also used a wheel with a 9 speed cog. The 7 and 9 speed Shimano derailleurs use the same derailleur ratio of 1.7 (amount ...


5

The ST EF-51's have a little switch in the back of them to switch between V-brake and cantilever. I found them too low quality to use reliably though. You have several options: Go to 8 speed or more and pick up some Alivio shifters. This is what I did on a 7 speed bike, and this is what I'd recommend. Microshift makes some 7 speed shifters that are ...


4

You can try it, but don't expect perfection. The width of a 7-speed chain is greater than the width of a 9-speed chain, therefore the component sizes, and the distance you need to shift, are different, even if only slightly. Whether this is enough to spoil your ride, only you can judge. A shop or a manufacturer might be somewhat more definite in their ...


3

You should take it to your local bike shop and get the wheel dished and trued. It is probably a mix of both those issues. Depending on how bad it is you may need to replace the wheel entirely.


3

Forget the calipers.Just install cantilever brakes. They are compatible with STI levers. v-brakes use the same boss placement as cantis. It's too bad that all cantis seem to be lousy in my experience, but they do the job.


3

The product you are looking for is interrupter levers. regular flat bar brake levers aren't designed to work in conjunction with STI levers. The ones I linked to specifically say they are compatible with caliper/cantilever brakes. I'm pretty sure most interrupter levers would be compatible with caliper/cantilever brakes because v-brakes don't tend to be ...


2

It won't work. On a 7-speed cassette, the cogs are 5.0 mm apart (center-to-center). On 9-speed, it's 4.34 mm. This means that if you adjust the derailleur so it's in the correct position on the 1st cog, then by the time it gets to the 7th cog, it'll be 4.62 mm off from where it needs to be.


2

You can use the brake lever without the shift portion just by disconnecting the shift cable. Then, you can attach a bar end shifter or a downtube shifter or similar to shift instead. You won't be able to replace just the shifter portion of the brifter (without probably canabalizing another brifter anyway and actually manage to put the old one together). ...


2

I think that will be okay. Have a look if there are no spacers behind the rotor mount bolts - or if it's center lock see if there is a spacer behind it as well. Removing these may help.


2

The slightly off centre, forward position of the mount post is (IMO) most likely designed to optimise the brake force vs. pull and force distribution ... also relating to "toe-in". Typically when fitting brake blocks of rim brakes you 'toe-in' the leading (front) end of the pad slightly so that this part makes contact with the braking surface first. This ...


2

You need to replace the spokes. Just one is enough to put the wheel out of true. Once the spokes are replaced you use a spoke key (a special spanner) to tension the spoke nipples to drag the rim back into round. This is a fiddly job which takes time, but is not beyond a home workshop. Once the wheel's rim is running straight your other problems should ...


2

This may not be an answer but it was too long to comment. When you compressed the pads did you open the system? Meaning uncapping the reservoir, or did you simply push them back without doing anything else? Sounds like air has gotten in the system and it will need to be bled. One of the steps of bleeding is creating a vacuum to pull air out of the fluid ...


1

That looks like the quick release mechanism used when removing the tyre to open the caliper a little wider. It looks broken? - it should be tucked under in line with the pull of the cable. Since it isn't the cable is actually pulling the release open as you brake. You might be able to temporarily remedy it by leaving it in the open position and pulling the ...


1

The problem you are encountering is likely because the pressure during the bleed process forces the pistons out slightly - this means that in effect you overfill the system. You are best to push the pistons back fully with the old pads in place, then remove the old pads and replace with a bleed block. You can buy specially designed bleed blocks, or you can ...


1

The best bet for old Campy Hoods is EBay. The hoods you are looking for are the EC-R500 Silicone Rubber hoods, I believe. One set here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-8-9-Speed-Record-Ergo-Shifter-Hoods-pre-1998-EC-RE500-Genuine-/321946601034



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