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4

How thick are the pads? Are these rim brakes or disk brakes? For rim brakes, the block (rubber) will get worn away over time so you should adjust the cable occasionally, but well before the block is so thin that the shoe (the metal backing) starts to scrape on the rim. For disk brakes it's essentially the same but the pad is thinner and made of harder ...


2

I'd guess that what happened is the other end of the cable slipped (at the anchor bolt on the brake). It probably wasn't tight enough and when the brakes were applied the cable pulled through the anchor bolt. Now the cable seems too loose at the barrel adjuster, but really it is too loose at the brake. All you probably need to do is to loosen up the anchor ...


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There are several things that could be causing the problem (in rough order of likelihood): As others have pointed out, the shoes (or pads if you have disk brakes) may have worn to the point where they need to be replaced or the brakes need some adjustment. The brake cable may have stretched or slipped. Many caliper brake systems have a quick release to ...


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With fully pulling you mean the lever touches the handlebars? Simply tensioning the cable and checking the pads should be enough. You should also make sure the cable is properly clamped on the brakes.


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Well, you don't have to… That said, Tektro makes some very nice and inexpensive levers – both drop bar levers (RL340) and interrupter levers (RL720) which are much more effective than suicide levers. At the very least, I would take off the suicide levers, I've never had good luck with them. The problem that I had with suicide levers was that they had so much ...


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Yep, 'reach' is how long the brake calipers are, and an indication of whether the brake pads will hit the rim properly. 'Pull' is basically how spongy your brake levers will feel. If this is not matched properly to the brake calipers, you could end up with jerky brakes that are very on-or-off and liable to catapult you over the handlebars, or ones that ...


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To shorten a bolt, get two nuts with the matching thread. Screw them onto the bolt and "lock" them together (tightened against each other) such that the nut surface farthest from the head lines up with the place where you want to cut. Place the bolt in a vice (taking care to not mash the threads) and use a fine-toothed hacksaw or other cutting device to ...


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The nut is most likely suffering from galvanic corrosion in which case penetrating oil won't work because penetrating oil does nothing to break the chemical bond holding the two parts together. Instead of penetrating oil you can try a mild acid (think lemon juice or vinegar) which might help eat away at the bonds without damaging the finish on your fork. The ...


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The handlebars on the Masi Uno look like track-style handlebars, which were designed for the aerodynamic needs of track racing (in a closed, running-track-like loop in a velodrome) over the practical needs of a road bike. The important thing to note is that track bikes usually don't have brakes (see this article for why, with a fun sneak peek of "It's the ...


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Cable pull is the same for all mechanical caliper brakes. The things to take into account are the mounting nut and reach. Older brakes use a hex nut to hold the brake in place while newer ones use shorter bolt and countersunk nut. Most of new brakes are for recessed mounting, if your bike has traditional nut you will either need to find a brake with longer ...


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As stated by Daniel R Hicks, these are roller cam brakes. Sheldon Brown sells a few extra long reach brakes: the Odyssey 1999 Extra Long Reach Caliper Brake and the Action© Extra Long Reach Caliper Brake. Tektro C-326 seems to have adequate reach, but the problem is since its designed for beach cruisers, the rims have to be quite wide. I don't know if the ...



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