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9

Yeah. Use the quick release. If you push the brake arms together, you should be able to pull the noodle out of the noodle holder (you may need to wiggle it a bit out). Then the arms will be wide enough to remove the wheel. Alternatively, you can de-inflate the tire, remove it and then re-inflate it after re-installation.


6

One thing to look out for is the size of the drop from the bolt securing the brake to the frame, and the brake blocks, to ensure the new brakes will fit in such a way that the blocks line up with the rims. Probably if you have a newish bike, then any new brakes you buy will be of the same dimension as new brakes. But it's worth making sure they'll fit - ...


3

Pretty much right -- you just have to make sure that the calipers have enough reach to brake (on an Allez, pretty much anything but a long reach caliper will work). There are some threads like this with some new Shimano stuff (new Super SLR) which is technically a ymmv/you're on your own, but it should work. Another thing you should check when replacing ...


3

A properly tuned V-Brake system, assembled with proper, compatible components should let you disengage the quick release by just pressing the brake arms together with one hand and wiggling the noodle out. But if it is really necesary to have the cable so tight for the brakes to work, there may be some mismatch in the components or simply bad design. Here ...


2

I don't think surge braking is as user-friendly as a manuel braking system. Here is what I basically do for my 90-something trailer, on just one wheel...this should be even better if braking both of trailer's wheels: I made a rider-controlled trailer brake lever as part of the trailer unit. This makes connecting and disconnecting the trailer from the ...


2

Well, 105/Ultegra are pretty high to put on a BSO or BSO priced thing (and the brakes will cost more than the BSO). I'd probably go with 20 dollar Tektros. Generally, they are all short-pull brakes so you should be fine with all of them. Shimano has some New Super SLR cable pull, which you can pair with standard short pull brake levers, but Shimano wants ...


2

To add a rear disc brake you must have a frame with a disc mount. You will also need a rear wheel that has a disc compatible hub. Unless you find a really good deal on something used you will spend more than the bike is worth. If you feel the rear V brakes were insufficient, your money would be better spent getting quality shoes for the rear. Some riders ...


2

Grip the arms together using your hand and you should be able to disengage the noodle from the quick release.


1

Those long "mountain bike" Kool-stops work fine on my modern skinny wheel road bike with side-pull calipers. If the modern Kool-stops fit (and don't see why not), I'm sure they will outperform those vintage looking ones - the contact area is much greater. I'd even bet the long contact patch results in less torque on the caliper arms, but I doubt it's an ...


1

I have a fixed gear and I don't find the rear brake useless. I actually Find it quite hard to skid the rear wheel with just the pedals unless I'm riding on wet roads. Personally, I also really like riding on the hoods, and I would leave the brakes they way they are. I would also leave on the drop bar levers because getting to a mountain bike style brake from ...


1

One of the likely culprits is that you've put too much spring tension in on the arms. Start by loosening the spring tension on the arms, adjusting the brake and then increasing to just enough tension. These links will be useful.


1

Based on your fender/brake setup I think you might benefit from this: http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents The barrel adjuster (on the silver model) on the top could be tuned to do this with out tools. So that instead of needing a 5mm to release the tension on the cable you could screw in the adjuster and bam, instant slack. Just a ...


1

A shimano noodle can help you. It have a "shortcut" to get it out of the holder.


1

I have some entrance level Shimano hydraulic brakes (bl-m445; br-m445) and while trying to bleed them, I accidentally overtightened the bleed nipple thus resulting in the threads being busted. I put some teflon tape on it and reinstalled it in the caliper, then resorted to burping the system. Although it took a while (max 15 mins) I managed to get from ...


1

What I do for my bicycle trailer is pretty simple: I made a rider-controlled trailer brake lever as part of the trailer unit. This makes connecting and disconnecting the trailer from the bicycle easy, since the brake cable(s) do not have to be detached and re-attached.The bicyclist can activate the brake by pushing the paddle backwards with his buttocks. ...



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