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0

As always ask Sheldon Brown! I don't know if it will work because he's talking about centre pulls, but anyway, you need to attach the cable housing to the yoke, and the cable is then attached where the pulley is in your picture. The cable housing will then push the yoke up towards the seat tube instead of the cable pulling up the yoke!


3

Pretty much right -- you just have to make sure that the calipers have enough reach to brake (on an Allez, pretty much anything but a long reach caliper will work). There are some threads like this with some new Shimano stuff (new Super SLR) which is technically a ymmv/you're on your own, but it should work. Another thing you should check when replacing ...


1

What I do for my bicycle trailer is pretty simple: I made a rider-controlled trailer brake lever as part of the trailer unit. This makes connecting and disconnecting the trailer from the bicycle easy, since the brake cable(s) do not have to be detached and re-attached.The bicyclist can activate the brake by pushing the paddle backwards with his buttocks. ...


2

I don't think surge braking is as user-friendly as a manuel braking system. Here is what I basically do for my 90-something trailer, on just one wheel...this should be even better if braking both of trailer's wheels: I made a rider-controlled trailer brake lever as part of the trailer unit. This makes connecting and disconnecting the trailer from the ...


0

You shouldn't count on it, no. Low-end and touring forks may not have the parts available at all. With medium-to-high end MTB forks, the parts may be available but it often requires exchanging most of the innards, making it a much too costly proposition. It in not just a matter of adding a lever to the top.


1

I have some entrance level Shimano hydraulic brakes (bl-m445; br-m445) and while trying to bleed them, I accidentally overtightened the bleed nipple thus resulting in the threads being busted. I put some teflon tape on it and reinstalled it in the caliper, then resorted to burping the system. Although it took a while (max 15 mins) I managed to get from ...


0

Flex in the system robs you of useful cable travel and feel, but does not reduce power (provided the lever is not bottoming out). Imagine hanging a 1kg weight from a hook by a steel cable vs a rubber band - the rubber would stretch a lot more, but both would pull on the hook with the same 1kg force. Having used several different models of Tektro brakes in ...


1

Those long "mountain bike" Kool-stops work fine on my modern skinny wheel road bike with side-pull calipers. If the modern Kool-stops fit (and don't see why not), I'm sure they will outperform those vintage looking ones - the contact area is much greater. I'd even bet the long contact patch results in less torque on the caliper arms, but I doubt it's an ...


0

BMX levers work well. Tektro makes some decent ones, too. Just buy a pair and have a spare, or try and sell the second one on Craigslist if you really don't want to hold onto it.


0

A Diatech Dirty harry lever will fit - most bmx brake levers can be used. Dirty harry lever has got good cable pull and it's hard wearing as it was originally designed for bmx. I've seen lots of people riding fixed using this lever Dirty Harry BMX lever


1

I have a fixed gear and I don't find the rear brake useless. I actually Find it quite hard to skid the rear wheel with just the pedals unless I'm riding on wet roads. Personally, I also really like riding on the hoods, and I would leave the brakes they way they are. I would also leave on the drop bar levers because getting to a mountain bike style brake from ...


1

One of the likely culprits is that you've put too much spring tension in on the arms. Start by loosening the spring tension on the arms, adjusting the brake and then increasing to just enough tension. These links will be useful.


0

Alternative to the other suggestions, repair tube while the wheel is in place, with the break and all. You take one side of the tire off the wheel, pull the tube out and patch it, replace the tube (a bit of air in it makes it easier) and put the tire back. This is a Dutch language video but with very clear pictures, front wheel but rear wheel works the ...


0

You should see this page about installing and adjusting caliper brakes. As others mentioned, look out for the reach. Also, pay attention to whether you need recessed or traditional nutted mounts.


6

One thing to look out for is the size of the drop from the bolt securing the brake to the frame, and the brake blocks, to ensure the new brakes will fit in such a way that the blocks line up with the rims. Probably if you have a newish bike, then any new brakes you buy will be of the same dimension as new brakes. But it's worth making sure they'll fit - ...


2

To add a rear disc brake you must have a frame with a disc mount. You will also need a rear wheel that has a disc compatible hub. Unless you find a really good deal on something used you will spend more than the bike is worth. If you feel the rear V brakes were insufficient, your money would be better spent getting quality shoes for the rear. Some riders ...


2

Well, 105/Ultegra are pretty high to put on a BSO or BSO priced thing (and the brakes will cost more than the BSO). I'd probably go with 20 dollar Tektros. Generally, they are all short-pull brakes so you should be fine with all of them. Shimano has some New Super SLR cable pull, which you can pair with standard short pull brake levers, but Shimano wants ...


1

Based on your fender/brake setup I think you might benefit from this: http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents The barrel adjuster (on the silver model) on the top could be tuned to do this with out tools. So that instead of needing a 5mm to release the tension on the cable you could screw in the adjuster and bam, instant slack. Just a ...


1

A shimano noodle can help you. It have a "shortcut" to get it out of the holder.


3

A properly tuned V-Brake system, assembled with proper, compatible components should let you disengage the quick release by just pressing the brake arms together with one hand and wiggling the noodle out. But if it is really necesary to have the cable so tight for the brakes to work, there may be some mismatch in the components or simply bad design. Here ...



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