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2

See at Sheldon's page about centering the brakes: meaning loosening the bolt that attaches the unit to the frame and rotating the calliper until both pads are at equal distance from the rim. Then re-tighten and check once more. You should also check if the wheel is correctly centered in the frame or fork. In case of doubt always refer to your LBS.


-1

i had this happen the bolts connecting the brakes to the frame were rubbing on the rotor.


3

The boss spacing changed from 60 mm to 80 mm with the advent of mountain bikes which use wider wheels. 60mm is the spacing the Dia Compes were made for. What you need are cantilevers made for the narrower spacing with an adjustment for spring tension. Avid Shorty Ultimates are adjustable and their wide setting works well with 60 mm post spacing. Spring ...


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it was a machine manufacturing error thats all that will happen theres nothing that will break and its not bad bearings. so not to fret over..


1

See the comments on this question. On an old compatibility chart, Shimano says they will play nice with old brake levers, but on newer ones they say they the braking force may be much too high on their data sheets. However, other companies make decent long reach calipers as well, such as the Tektro R556/R559 (maybe these are extra long reach by some people ...


1

The cable pull ratio was changed for the listed models, whereas previous generations were compatible with a wide range of Shimano and non-Shimano brake components. Use Shimano's Specifications site to compare the compatibility of your levers and brake calipers. http://productinfo.shimano.com/specifications.html


0

GCN do some great how to videos and will possibly be a good resource for you in your general overhaul of the bike. Here is one specific to you need for this post


0

People tend not to use the front brake exclusively or mostly because they fear the bike will flip over. As I was taught by a Police motorcyclist - if the front wheel locks you will still go straight, if the back wheel locks you will hit the floor. Certainly in my experience of non-competitive cycling events (sportives, multi-day Charity rides) I've seen a ...


1

For the most part, no. The main problem is that you don't brake for very long compared to a normal battery charging cycle, so regenerative braking doesn't match the battery very well. Some systems use supercapacitors because they're designed for this sort of situation, but those are expensive and heavy in a bicycle application. Motors also typically don't ...


3

Generally, it will go away if you apply the brakes a bit (it will be a bit noisy at first, but after a few applications it will look as good as new), since the rust is likely only on the surface (this is one way to tell if a car has been not driven for a few days - rust spots appear on the brake discs, but they'll go away after a short trip around town). ...



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