New answers tagged

1

I had this occur, and it was a monster of my own doing. The first thing I would look at is where you sanded the area that you assumed was somehow unevenly being grabbed by the brakes. I sanded a rim once, and I was careful to boot, but it created this incredible grabbing that was far worse than it was before. The next thing I would look at would be the ...


3

If those wheels have significant mileage on them, you should worry that the rim wall (and braking surface) has become too thin and is bending under the pressure of the pads. Remove the tyre and measure the sidewall thickness with calipers all around the wheel. If part of it is measurably thinner than the rest, or if any part is below 1mm, it might be ...


5

Measure the rim in a more accurate way for starters. Even 0.1mm can cause a change in the braking power. Also, with the bike resting on its handles and seat, flipped over, ask someone to lightly hold down the front brake while you slowly turn the wheel and figure out exactly where the trouble spot is and how big it is. If there is no visible difference, and ...


-2

You need to toe the brake pads in. The pads are hitting the rim unevenly and causing vibration. I have had to do this many times on my CX bike. The pads need to hit from the front of the pad first, this reduces the chance of vibration occurring. Also using Swissstop pads will help greatly.


4

As @Carel mentioned, try using rubbing alcohol to clean the discs. It's often called Isopropyl Alcohol or isopropanol. You may have inadvertently contaminated your pads which often means replacements. Did you use any sprays which may have blown on to the disc? Frame protector and water displacers like gt-85 or wd-40 will play havoc with your braking power. ...


1

It looks like the issue for one brake stemmed from a ferrule on a cable outer pinching too much. And the other brake seems a little better after checking/straightening the routing and lubing. All inners and outers look to be in perfect condition which is why I hadn't stripped them down up to now. Thanks for the pointers chaps.


2

You're on the slippery slope of knock-on upgrades. Its cheaper to buy a new bike equipped with disks than it is to upgrade an existing bike to discs from rim brakes. Look for Kool Stop brake pads for your existing rim brakes, which are often salmon-coloured. They work really well, and aren't stupidly-expensive. Don't buy $2 brake blocks and expect ...


4

The photos I have seen on line indicate this bike lacks a frame mount for the rear brake caliper. The fork also lacks a mount. It will be most likely be cost prohibitive to attempt modifying the frame. You would need road specific disc calipers if you will be using drop bars, a disc wheelset, rotors, and cables as the old ones will likely be too short. If ...


2

Wrapping up all the comments, it appears that your brake mechanism applies okay, but doesn't achieve enough braking performance to slow you quickly. The likely cause is that you've never bedded in the brake pads. Apply the links in @Móż comment to bed your brakes in properly. If they're too naffed you might need new pads to start the bedding in process ...


1

What you have is the expansion bolt setup, based on your comments to Kibbee's answer. The arrow points to a conical head bolt with a 5mm hex hole up the middle. Note that you're turning this bolt from "underneath" so you turn the opposite direction to what you expect. Viz, clockwise to undo the bolt/remove the brake lever from the bike; and anti-clockwise ...


-2

Firstly you need to confirm the material of your wheel. If your wheels are carbon fiber, you need to use the professional brake pads made of cork which are normally labelled as "use for carbon rims". If your wheels are aluiminium/alloy or steel, use pads made of rubber. Secondly you need to confirm the brake type of your wheels. The mountings for V brake ...


4

perhaps this video might help. I'm not sure if you have the same brake levers. The part where he installs the brake levers is about 6 minutes in, which the link should go right to. There's a small hex key bolt on the outside of the brake levers. You should be able to see it in the following picture, I have circled what I'm pretty sure are the screws you ...


1

Do NOT use WD-40 of any kind on your rims if you use rim brakes. WD-40 leaves a residue. If you have contaminated your rims, clean them off with rubbing alchohol. Once you do that, it'll be like starting with new brakes, so they will take a little brake in to get dirt and rubber re-imbedded in your rims. If the pads have been contaminated with WD-40, and it ...


5

I have some BR-IM45s, and some BR-IM70s (which have large cooling fins), on a couple of my bikes, although they're only used for relatively lightly-loaded commuting (typically only around 20m per day, load of around 15kgs, rolling along at 15mph). They're actually pretty easy to strip down and service, though this simply consists of disassembly, degrease, ...


0

We've got an electric bike with a tektro mechanical front disc brake. They squealed like mad when we got it. I'm no disc brake expert (though I think I know more about them than the department store the bike came from) but a little tweaking helped. There isn't much adjustment on such basic brakes anyway. Over time they got better again, but they still ...


2

You are going about this incorrectly. Although some brakes are more prone to squealing than others, replacement is expensive and rarely needed. Brake squeal is a function of the brake, frame, rotor and wheel interaction, so there is still no certainty a new brake will fix the problem. I won't go into details as solution to squealing brakes is well covered ...


4

Sounds like a sticky piston to me. These can be a real pain to sort. To get the unstuck you remove the wheel, and push the pistons in and out a handful of times. Stick the bike in a sturdy stand. Remove the wheel. Squeeze the levers a few times to get the pistons sticking out a bit. Don't go too far as dropping a piston out is bad news. Push them back in. ...



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