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1

If you can pull the lever all the way to the handlebar while not getting much braking force, then it is very likely that you somehow got air into the system somewhere, and you need to bleed the entire brake system. Perhaps when you were changing the pads, you pulled the brake lever while the pads were removed, which would allow the pistons to come out too ...


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Back when those were The Brake, the pad to use was the Scott Mathauser pad. The compound was soft, reminiscent of a pink pencil eraser. While no longer made, there are several brands that offer similar compound: Yokozuna and Kool-Stop come to mind. You will likely have to order pads to fit those calipers. It does appear as if Yokozuna actually still sells ...


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These are just old U-Brakes (installed at the chain stays as was cool for part of the late 80s). You just need to unbolt them from the studs (maybe hit it with some penetrating oil to help loosen it oFF the studs). Unfortunately due to the placement of the U brake , you're going to need to get another u brake since you won't be able to mount a normal brake ...


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I think it's very rare, you'd better buy your bike already with that - maybe have a deal in your local shop to swap the fork to a lockout one when buying the bike. Disc brakes are much better than rims IMHO


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I think it depends on pad adjustment and most hydraulics have some kind of auto adjustment, also following pads' wearing - small "springs" between the pads return them to the initial position. Cable driven disc brakes can be adjusted at the caliper for tighter fit. You'll probably never be able to start braking immediately. It needs some play, otherwise it ...


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The balls are 2mm in diameter. How do I know? Well, I found a bearing supply shop, and asked them to see some of their smallest balls. I bought one 2mm ball and one 3/32" (2.38mm) ball for all of 20 cents. The 3/32" ball was slightly too large to fit in the hole, so I tried the 2mm one, and bingo--a perfect fit. Putting the QR mechanism back together is ...


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I was irritated buy the rattling cooling disc as well. I pressed small pieces of rubber between the disc and the spokes and it stopped the rattling without impairing the brake's function.


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Pick up the shuddering wheel(s) and spin them to make they are "free", i.e., no brake contact when the lever is not depressed. Check that your wheel axle is securely seated in the dropouts. Check that your hub is tight -- pick up the end of the bike with the shuddering brake, push side-to-side on the top of the wheel. You should feel no play or a minuscule ...


3

It seems like you're confusing the clamp diameter with the grip area diameter. 26 mm is a standard road bike clamp diameter (i.e. where the handlebar attaches to the stemp) and 25.4 mm is a standard mountain bike clamp diameter. Your stem needs to match the clamp diameter. The clamp diameter and stem must match exactly. The grip area diameters need to ...


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A rim worn down from age through braking may shudder. In my experience the rim shuddered more when the tyre was more highly inflated. This can be tested by clamping the brakes on the bicycle, and turning the wheel to detect uneven deformation when the brakes grip excessively at particular points. The deformation in this case will not be immediately ...


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After the discussion in the comments, I suspect that the rim is deformed. This can happen if you hit a pothole or kerb too hard, especially if the tires are not pumped up hard. If the rim is deformed then you may be able to see patches where the brakes have worn the rim more. It's the brakes grabbing on these that create the feedback you are feeling. ...


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iirc - the Arch Rival V-brakes are described as parallel because the brake block surfaces are always parallel to the rim braking surface at whatever distance from the rim. This in theory improves braking. Other than this - they function the same as a normal V-brake in that the arms act as levers to apply the brake blocks to the rim surface. Adjustment may ...


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Back brakes have long cables and when you apply the brake, the load causes a significant stretch in the cable. When you add the load due to corrosion, it is a wonder you have any stop at all. A good cable is critical, inspect and replace if necessary.



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