New answers tagged brakes
1
My v-brakes squealed when applied and moaned when riding slow. I tried all of the toe in and out and different pads to no avail. One day I had the front wheel off and notice a very tiny bit of play in the axle. I tightened the bearing cup to snug but the wheel still spun freely. No more noise. Next day I did the same for the rear wheel and now my bike is ...
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Mostly cosmetic and weight. You can check shimano website (http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/tech_support/tech_docs.html) and look for "exploded parts" documents the parts your interested in. You will find that different level of components (105 vs ultegra) share a lot of smaller components and where it differs sometimes it's ...
1
Since you don't mention specific group sets (ie 6700, 6600, etc.) I'll say the primary differences are going to be weight and feel and to a lesser extent performance.
Ultegra 6700 levers are carbon fiber with a 'better' shape that some say offers better brake feel. Also the pivot point is different on 6700 vs 5700 (105) as it has trickled down from the Dura ...
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It's counterintuitive but brakes with a mushy feel are actually going to have more power. This is due to the difference in cable pull ratio. It also means you'll have to run the pad a little closer to the rim, which can be an issue if your wheels are out of true.
Overall, I think this would be a great setup. The new 105s are great brakes, and you'll have ...
1
My older MTB that I ride to work on, has hydraulic disk Deore in front and Tektro V-Brakes for the rear, and it's totally OK. Anyway, your brain will have no issues to adapt to such negliable changes, like the power you need to apply with each hand. After a few rides you'll be OK.
3
Quick answer: Don't worry.
Front and rear are already "functionally different" on two-wheeled vehicles, to the point that we have different thread patterns and even wheel sizes (at least in motorcycles this is common-practice).
So, having brakes with different "feels" is not a problem by itself, unless this bothers you, or makes you over/underestimate ...
4
Lever throw is how much the lever moves in total.
Cable slack is how slack the cable is, ie. how much you have to pull before the brake pads start moving.
Park Tool says:
Squeeze lever to test caliper brake. Adjust lever modulation setting by moving pads inward or outward from rotor by using both pad-adjusting knobs. To maintain the 2:1 ratio, turn the ...
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I measured several sets that I have and got the following results. These were used with Shimano, Tektro, Avid and one with "no name" brakes. This not to say that some other brands don't have a unique size. The male threads that go into the frame were either M6 by 15mm long or M8 by 10mm long. The shaft or studs (part labeled as C) were all just under 8mm, ...
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In addition to the good answers already;
Lean forward and kick your leg over the back wheel so that both feet are on one side of the bike and your standing on one pedal, then hit the ground running whilst continuing to hold the bars. Takes a little practice. Maybe it cant be done at very high speeds.
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It's difficult to give a general estimate on how often brake pads should be replaced, as conditions vary. (Including how often you ride, temperature, humidity, do you store your bike in direct sunlight, how old the brakes are, etc.) If it looks worn, replace it.
Adjusting brake tension via the screw nuts on the handlebars is the best way to make ...
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As mentioned by other respondents, brakes should be far enough from your wheel rim so that they do not rub on the rim as the wheel spins, but close enough so that you have sufficient stopping power when braking. If you're having trouble with finding this happy medium, you wheel may be out of true and need an adjustment. Brake pads should be evenly spaced on ...
3
Your wheel is out of true, this happens under normal conditions as spokes stretch.
You're going to need a truing stand, some lubricant, and a a spoke wrench. (I've heard you can use zip-ties attached to each side of your wheel fork, facing inward, then cut to size, but I don't think this makes for very accurate measurements.) Most bike shops I've worked ...
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I had the same problem when storing my bike. I used coins to keep the pads separated.
It works pretty well: http://blog.nadnerb.co.uk/?p=46
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I do find that when I am riding in wet conditions, I don't get as much leverage when riding on the hoods, compared to riding in the drops. Other than that, I don't have any issues with stopping while on the hoods.
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On the question of safety, hoods are safe. The levers on brakes provide mechanical advantage enabling the rider to apply breaking power through the levers, even when hands are placed on the hoods and might seemingly be at a disadvantage in terms of applying power (vs. say the drops).
Breaking power will not be the same as with the hand position on the ...
3
To complement the other answers here, I want to add that the only time I've ever felt that braking from the hoods is inadvisable is when doing fast mountain descents.
In those cases, you can be going anywhere from 35–50mph and braking hard just before turns. If you're riding on the hoods, not only is your center of gravity higher, but you're also at a bad ...
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