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I decided to punt and just have the bike shop grind down the nut. The head mechanic at the local shop sounds confident that he can grind down the nut to fit without over-heating it (and making it brittle etc.). I actually looked at another, older Bianchi frame I have and I see that the rear caliper nut has been ground down on that bike too! Perhaps this is ...


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To shorten a bolt, get two nuts with the matching thread. Screw them onto the bolt and "lock" them together (tightened against each other) such that the nut surface farthest from the head lines up with the place where you want to cut. Place the bolt in a vice (taking care to not mash the threads) and use a fine-toothed hacksaw or other cutting device to ...


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Yep, 'reach' is how long the brake calipers are, and an indication of whether the brake pads will hit the rim properly. 'Pull' is basically how spongy your brake levers will feel. If this is not matched properly to the brake calipers, you could end up with jerky brakes that are very on-or-off and liable to catapult you over the handlebars, or ones that ...


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In a word, yes, you're correct in your assumption that "long reach" and "long pull" are different things. At 65 mm your brakes might even qualify as "extra long reach." The reach of rim brakes is the distance from the mounting bolt to the rim. Pull is the amount of cable that needs to be moved to get the brake shoes to clamp firmly against the rim. ...


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I believe you are taking about a bolt, rather than a nut ( nuts hold bolts onto things ). Anyway, you aren't going to damage the bolt if you file it down or cut it with a metal cutting saw, it's done all the time.


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There are several things that could be causing the problem (in rough order of likelihood): As others have pointed out, the shoes (or pads if you have disk brakes) may have worn to the point where they need to be replaced or the brakes need some adjustment. The brake cable may have stretched or slipped. Many caliper brake systems have a quick release to ...


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With fully pulling you mean the lever touches the handlebars? Simply tensioning the cable and checking the pads should be enough. You should also make sure the cable is properly clamped on the brakes.


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How thick are the pads? Are these rim brakes or disk brakes? For rim brakes, the block (rubber) will get worn away over time so you should adjust the cable occasionally, but well before the block is so thin that the shoe (the metal backing) starts to scrape on the rim. For disk brakes it's essentially the same but the pad is thinner and made of harder ...


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I'd guess that what happened is the other end of the cable slipped (at the anchor bolt on the brake). It probably wasn't tight enough and when the brakes were applied the cable pulled through the anchor bolt. Now the cable seems too loose at the barrel adjuster, but really it is too loose at the brake. All you probably need to do is to loosen up the anchor ...


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The nut is most likely suffering from galvanic corrosion in which case penetrating oil won't work because penetrating oil does nothing to break the chemical bond holding the two parts together. Instead of penetrating oil you can try a mild acid (think lemon juice or vinegar) which might help eat away at the bonds without damaging the finish on your fork. The ...


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It should be fully closed. The lever is only intended to be opened to allow the tire to pass during a wheel change or if you hit a pothole and knock your wheel badly out of true. If your pads are too close to the rim you make an adjustment with the barrel adjuster. Riding with the quick release open compromises the braking power of the caliper. You may not ...


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The handlebars on the Masi Uno look like track-style handlebars, which were designed for the aerodynamic needs of track racing (in a closed, running-track-like loop in a velodrome) over the practical needs of a road bike. The important thing to note is that track bikes usually don't have brakes (see this article for why, with a fun sneak peek of "It's the ...


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You can give it coaster brakes (but note that it won't be a fixie; it will be a single speed which can coast without peddling with coaster brakes). Just buy or build a wheel with a coaster brake in it (you will need a coaster brake hub of the appropriate width) of the appropriate wheel size, put it in the dropout appropriately and then make sure to clamp on ...


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You likely would only be able to brake comfortably from the drop position due to the excessive down angling of the handlebar ramp region. This would especially be true for older style brake levers like you have shown in the picture as these levels have shorter reach and less material to place your hands on when on the hoods. In the old style road cockpits ...


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The braking loads are unlikely to be enough to exceed the tensile strength of a 6 mm bolt – forgive my butchering of units here, but it would take something like 2,250 pounds of force to make a 6 mm bolt fail (75,000 psi tensile strength for type 18-8 or 316 stainless and about 0.03 square inches in the bolt works out to around 2,250 pounds of force). That's ...


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Cable pull is the same for all mechanical caliper brakes. The things to take into account are the mounting nut and reach. Older brakes use a hex nut to hold the brake in place while newer ones use shorter bolt and countersunk nut. Most of new brakes are for recessed mounting, if your bike has traditional nut you will either need to find a brake with longer ...


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If it's an older bike then a pair of center pulls would be quite appropriate. Weinmann made some long reach center pulls in the past that could be picked up on eBay for not much. I think the model 890 and 999 had the longest reach but I can't remember exactly how long it was. Dia Compe still offer a long reach center pull though I'm not sure they reach quite ...


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As stated by Daniel R Hicks, these are roller cam brakes. Sheldon Brown sells a few extra long reach brakes: the Odyssey 1999 Extra Long Reach Caliper Brake and the Action© Extra Long Reach Caliper Brake. Tektro C-326 seems to have adequate reach, but the problem is since its designed for beach cruisers, the rims have to be quite wide. I don't know if the ...


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Well, I went ahead and ordered some Shimano 105 dual pivot calipers. Unfortunately the rear caliper arms will not clear the seat stays. There's just no fixing it as far as I can tell. If I put on additional washers, the fixing nut will not thread onto the main mounting bolt far enough. I tried several sizes of fixing nuts and none of them will work. I hope ...


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Well, you don't have to… That said, Tektro makes some very nice and inexpensive levers – both drop bar levers (RL340) and interrupter levers (RL720) which are much more effective than suicide levers. At the very least, I would take off the suicide levers, I've never had good luck with them. The problem that I had with suicide levers was that they had so much ...



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