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17

Cables will stretch over time, but they won't become elastic. They're made of twisted strands of metal, and metal isn't generally known for its elasticity. This sounds to me like your brake pads are shot. When they become spongy and glazed, you can squeeze your brake lever quite far and feel like little pressure is being applied. Get thee to a bikeshoppery.


17

As many cable manufacturers recommend, modern cables+housings are designed to not be lubricated. So, if you have modern cables, I'd probably avoid lubricating the cables period.


13

This is one of those questions that can start arguments between bike mechanics--to cross or not to cross the derailer cables. Crossing appears to be becoming more common on new bikes, if the cables aren't internal, but it's also going to depend upon the bike. Smoother shifting is reported by some from crossed cables. I would talk to the mechanic at your LBS ...


9

I wouldn't say that a single broken strand on a new brake cable would render the bike "totally unsafe to ride," but if it is an option you should bring it back to the shop and have them replace it. This might be a sign that whoever put this bike together or inspected it for sale doesn't have a very thorough shop ethic. If they were careless enough to install ...


9

I have seen this frequently and routed my cables this way. By routing the shifter cable from the right side of the handlebar around the stem to the cable boss on the left side of the frame (and visa versa) I create a more gentle bend in the in the cable housing. A gentler bend creates less internal friction on the cable. Another benefit is less stress on the ...


9

One difference that internal cables make is if you transport your bike by car or have to haul it around by hand. Because the cables are inside the frame, they are less likely to get pinched by the clamp on your car-mount (especially if you use a trunk mount that clamps the top-tube). This is also true for car/bus bike mounts that clamp the down tube. If ...


8

The problem that you'll likely run into is the stop in the lever/shifter ends. I'm not aware of any systems that will accept bare cable at this end: If you wanted to pair your spool of wire with some sort of crimper (or go all out with some sort of mold/press), you could make your own - but investing $3,000 - $30,000 on some machine that melts metal on ...


8

Cable stretch is mostly just things settling into place (ferrules into housing, housing into frame stops, housing compressing) rather than physical stretching of the cables, and after a week or so of installing new cables, you simply adjust them to the right tension. This is normal, as is periodic adjustments of cable tensions involved on your bicycle. ...


7

What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes? Most Cyclocross bikes will route all the rear cables along the top of the top tube. In a cyclocross race, you will get off and shoulder your bike, the cables would get in the way on the underside of the top tube. Many CX bikes have a flat bottom top tube as well for easier shouldering. Routing the cables ...


7

Bike parts.com lists them as Sram rotating dual line hooks # BPC 147851.


7

I know an answer has been selected, but I wanted to post this here for future reference. First - the common name for that type part is a "straddle cable" or a "link wire" depending on the variations or the manufacturer. Second - my primary source (after my LBS) for less-common parts, especially parts for older bikes or the bike-shaped objects the ...


7

You are correct. This is different than "regular" cables. On regular cables you pick the end you want and cut off the other. Thats because the connection on the cut-off end is usually a clamp. You run the cable under a screw/nut and tighten it down. Then you just put a cable crimp on the end to protect the cut cable However, your internal hub cable is ...


7

Normally you replace a cable when it becomes too badly rusted, or the cable inside begins to break. The first condition you notice because the cable does not move freely, and the second you notice because the brake levers "give" (and don't bounce back) when you squeeze them hard. If not rusty, a set of cables can easily last 10-20 years. In your case it ...


7

I would suggest leaving new cable housings as they are. From my experience with riding MTB bikes in different conditions, lubing them only attracts more dust. I suggest regular cleaning and using oil only for short term reviving. These cables need to be replaced once in a while anyway.


7

It's not a given that the full-length housing is lower friction. I suspect that a well-done exposed cable scheme is lower friction than a full housing. Especially for indexed shifters, the cable housing changes effective length with tension and temperature changes. The exposed cable scheme has much less flex and hence more precision shifting. The full-...


7

Congratulations on your new steed, and great work putting it together! Looks like a nice ride. Long post follows, but I've tried to edit it into something a bit more manageable. Here goes... Before you start You mentioned you were able to set everything up but the brakes. Forgive my impertinence, but before you go further, can I just check that you ...


7

I use chain lube since I also prefer the solvent+grease wet chain lubes. That's exactly what you want inside cable housings. Popping the quick releases on brakes or frame attachments on gear cables, then dribbling chain lube along the inner so it runs down into the outer works well on cables that are already installed and doesn't require re-adjusting ...


6

Amazon or your local bike shop. Here's a double ended (you can cut into one or two depending on length you need) on Amazon: BRAKE PART STRADDLE CABLE ACTION ROAD 2-ENDS 110MM. Enjoy!


6

What is happening is that you have enough force in your hand to move the whole mechanism towards one direction overcoming the failure point, but the spring in the derailleur doesn't have the required force. As you pedal (and ride) vibration helps momentarily reducing friction and allowing the spring to pull back, so it finally shifts. The most common cause ...


6

Sad to say, not worth the effort! However, if you are a bulk user of cable outer then you can invest in a big reel of the stuff (obviously genuine Shimano) and some Shimano cable cutters (TL-CT-10). Broken link: http://www.madison.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=6Y1+9801 Possible replacements https://www.google.com/search?q=Shimano+cable+cutters http://...


6

Given what you are describing, it is likely that you are looking in the wrong place for your solution. Cables will stretch a small, but finite amount. The do not flex to the level you are describing. That would break them first. Brake levers, calipers, and pads can allow some spring effect into the system, but that typically doesn't creep in over time. It ...


6

Those end-caps are quite reusable. If you take a pair of pliers and squeeze it gently so that the flattened portion opens up you can then slide it back onto the cable. Using the pliers you can then re-crimp it on the cable. Although it looks ugly and everyone will know that you are too cheap to buy a 10c end-cap. A little bit of superglue placed at the end ...


6

I believe Sheldon wrote this before there was brake specific compressionless housing available on the market. My understanding is that brake specific compressionless housing is reinforced with Kevlar, not plastic, and it has certainly been rigorously tested to work as expected. The folks I know that run compressionless housing on their mechanical disc brake ...


6

I recently upgraded my brake cables with some Jagwire of the compressionless variety. jm2 is correct in saying the steel housing is reinforced with kevlar to prevent the longitudinal wires from buckling. The performance is very good and my brakes are far more responsive than with the old, traditional spiral-wound housing that was there before. That said, ...


6

I believe one reason is more "stiffness" in the cable. Cable housing typically contracts when the cable is contracted. That's why Nokon also builds bicycle cable housing now. With The frame attachments, you get almost half a meter less housing that may contract. This could lead to crisper shift and brake feel.


6

A long pull lever (i.e. for V-brakes, mountain mechanical discs) pulls the cable about twice as long (but about half as hard) as a short pull lever (caliper, cantilever, road discs). This is determined by the distance between where the cable ends and where the lever pivots. According to this thread, its significantly lower for short pull than for long pull ...


6

Cutting cables and housing is a bit of a pain in the ass (especially regular spiral housing for brakes). A Dremel with cutting disc or something like the Park Tool CN-10 is useful to cut the housing, along with a small file / punch to make sure that the hole is clear and smooth. The rules for running cables are here and here, along with some directions for ...


6

If you really want to test, you can cut a small piece of cable on each and put them in bleach. Stainless steel would corrode with rust forming evenly. Galvanised steel would mostly corrode on the cross-section of the cable (where the cut is made). The (correctly) galvanised area will likely to be white. A little note: For your time testing, just buy a ...


6

Its likely that your bad shifting is due to messed up cables or a misadjusted derailleur. You can either cut the cable crimp off at the end of the cable with a pair of pliers, or pull it off with a pair of pliers. As for replacing the cable housing, you can either get your bike shop to cut a piece of housing of the right length by taking your old housing ...


5

Cables will actually "work harden" slightly and become very slightly less elastic as they age. If they really do get "stretchy" it's because several strands have broken and the cable is near failure. Of course, many other things bend/stretch in the cable path, one being the brake calipers. As the bushings get worn and the brakes abused over time they ...



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