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14

Cables will stretch over time, but they won't become elastic. They're made of twisted strands of metal, and metal isn't generally known for its elasticity. This sounds to me like your brake pads are shot. When they become spongy and glazed, you can squeeze your brake lever quite far and feel like little pressure is being applied. Get thee to a bikeshoppery. ...


11

This is one of those questions that can start arguments between bike mechanics--to cross or not to cross the derailer cables. Crossing appears to be becoming more common on new bikes, if the cables aren't internal, but it's also going to depend upon the bike. Smoother shifting is reported by some from crossed cables. I would talk to the mechanic at your LBS ...


10

As many cable manufacturers recommend, modern cables+housings are designed to not be lubricated. So, if you have modern cables, I'd probably avoid lubricating the cables period.


8

The problem that you'll likely run into is the stop in the lever/shifter ends. I'm not aware of any systems that will accept bare cable at this end: If you wanted to pair your spool of wire with some sort of crimper (or go all out with some sort of mold/press), you could make your own - but investing $3,000 - $30,000 on some machine that melts metal on ...


8

I wouldn't say that a single broken strand on a new brake cable would render the bike "totally unsafe to ride," but if it is an option you should bring it back to the shop and have them replace it. This might be a sign that whoever put this bike together or inspected it for sale doesn't have a very thorough shop ethic. If they were careless enough to install ...


7

What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes? Most Cyclocross bikes will route all the rear cables along the top of the top tube. In a cyclocross race, you will get off and shoulder your bike, the cables would get in the way on the underside of the top tube. Many CX bikes have a flat bottom top tube as well for easier shouldering. Routing the ...


7

Normally you replace a cable when it becomes too badly rusted, or the cable inside begins to break. The first condition you notice because the cable does not move freely, and the second you notice because the brake levers "give" (and don't bounce back) when you squeeze them hard. If not rusty, a set of cables can easily last 10-20 years. In your case it ...


7

I would suggest leaving new cable housings as they are. From my experience with riding MTB bikes in different conditions, lubing them only attracts more dust. I suggest regular cleaning and using oil only for short term reviving. These cables need to be replaced once in a while anyway.


7

Congratulations on your new steed, and great work putting it together! Looks like a nice ride. Long post follows, but I've tried to edit it into something a bit more manageable. Here goes... Before you start You mentioned you were able to set everything up but the brakes. Forgive my impertinence, but before you go further, can I just check that you ...


7

I have seen this frequently and routed my cables this way. By routing the shifter cable from the right side of the handlebar around the stem to the cable boss on the left side of the frame (and visa versa) I create a more gentle bend in the in the cable housing. A gentler bend creates less internal friction on the cable. Another benefit is less stress on the ...


6

Sad to say, not worth the effort! However, if you are a bulk user of cable outer then you can invest in a big reel of the stuff (obviously genuine Shimano) and some Shimano cable cutters (TL-CT-10). Note the price is wrong: http://www.madison.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=6Y1+9801 However, order by Madison part code from your LBS and get the brake cable ...


6

What is happening is that you have enough force in your hand to move the whole mechanism towards one direction overcoming the failure point, but the spring in the derailleur doesn't have the required force. As you pedal (and ride) vibration helps momentarily reducing friction and allowing the spring to pull back, so it finally shifts. The most common cause ...


6

You are correct. This is different than "regular" cables. On regular cables you pick the end you want and cut off the other. Thats because the connection on the cut-off end is usually a clamp. You run the cable under a screw/nut and tighten it down. Then you just put a cable crimp on the end to protect the cut cable However, your internal hub cable is ...


6

Those end-caps are quite reusable. If you take a pair of pliers and squeeze it gently so that the flattened portion opens up you can then slide it back onto the cable. Using the pliers you can then re-crimp it on the cable. Although it looks ugly and everyone will know that you are too cheap to buy a 10c end-cap. A little bit of superglue placed at the end ...


6

It's not a given that the full-length housing is lower friction. I suspect that a well-done exposed cable scheme is lower friction than a full housing. Especially for indexed shifters, the cable housing changes effective length with tension and temperature changes. The exposed cable scheme has much less flex and hence more precision shifting. The ...


6

Cutting cables and housing is a bit of a pain in the ass (especially regular spiral housing for brakes). A Dremel with cutting disc or something like the Park Tool CN-10 is useful to cut the housing, along with a small file / punch to make sure that the hole is clear and smooth. The rules for running cables are here and here, along with some directions for ...


5

I know an answer has been selected, but I wanted to post this here for future reference. First - the common name for that type part is a "straddle cable" or a "link wire" depending on the variations or the manufacturer. Second - my primary source (after my LBS) for less-common parts, especially parts for older bikes or the bike-shaped objects the ...


5

Amazon or your local bike shop. Here's a double ended (you can cut into one or two depending on length you need) http://www.amazon.com/BRAKE-STRADDLE-CABLE-ACTION-2-ENDS/dp/B0047MDL8K/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1337570069&sr=8-7 Enjoy!


5

I believe one reason is more "stiffness" in the cable. Cable housing typically contracts when the cable is contracted. That's why Nokon also builds bicycle cable housing now. With The frame attachments, you get almost half a meter less housing that may contract. This could lead to crisper shift and brake feel.


5

A long pull lever (i.e. for V-brakes, mountain mechanical discs) pulls the cable about twice as long (but about half as hard) as a short pull lever (caliper, cantilever, road discs). This is determined by the distance between where the cable ends and where the lever pivots. According to this thread, its significantly lower for short pull than for long pull ...


5

You don't need to put anything in there. If you're really concerned get teflon coated cables. Those kinds of braze on cable guides were "standard" issue on well made lugged steel bikes until the early 80's or so. ( Cheap bikes can with bolt on versions of the same guides. ) They worked just fine even with old style cables that were much rougher than ...


5

I use chain lube since I also prefer the solvent+grease wet chain lubes. That's exactly what you want inside cable housings. Popping the quick releases on brakes or frame attachments on gear cables, then dribbling chain lube along the inner so it runs down into the outer works well on cables that are already installed and doesn't require re-adjusting ...


4

It sounds like you just need to get your rear derailleur adjusted. Any local bike shop should be able to adjust this fairly quickly. They will also be able to determine if you need the cable replaced.


4

It sounds like you have accidently mixed up the cables and routed the front dérailleur cable to the rear shifter and vice versa. You can change them so that the front shifter goes to the front dérailleur pretty easily. Just swap them at the shifters.


4

Given what you are describing, it is likely that you are looking in the wrong place for your solution. Cables will stretch a small, but finite amount. The do not flex to the level you are describing. That would break them first. Brake levers, calipers, and pads can allow some spring effect into the system, but that typically doesn't creep in over time. It ...


4

Cables will actually "work harden" slightly and become very slightly less elastic as they age. If they really do get "stretchy" it's because several strands have broken and the cable is near failure. Of course, many other things bend/stretch in the cable path, one being the brake calipers. As the bushings get worn and the brakes abused over time they ...


4

Bike parts.com lists them as Sram rotating dual line hooks # BPC 147851.


4

I put the cable in, find a length that's 'approximate enough', and crimp the cable end onto the cable before I clamp it into the derailleur. This will prevent the end from fraying, like you say, and becoming difficult to deal with. It will get flattened under the derailleur clamp, but this can't be avoided. If you don't crimp the end in first (or leaving it ...


4

That looks to me like an overtightened bolt. See how the cable has spread out under the bolt? That means more strands have probably been damaged. The problem is not that one strand has broken, but that more strands will break in short order. So yes, do something about it soon. If you're lucky you'll be able to wind the barrel adjuster on the brake lever in ...


4

In general, designers will seek to achieve the shortest possible cable routes while minimizing the number and severity of turns. And off-road bikes will be designed with consideration of problems due to running through underbrush, etc. Assuming a standard diamond frame: Under the top tube is generally a good place for the rear brake and derailer cables ...



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