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38

"Optimal" cadence varies with what you're trying to optimze, so your question doesn't have a simple answer. Freely-chosen Cadence vs. a Targeted Cadence A recent review by Hansen et al. summarizes what is currently known about factors affecting choice of cadence. In particular, they conclude "[d]uring high-intensity cycling, close to the maximal aerobic ...


20

For any given speed, you can either spin at a higher cadence in a lower gear, or a lower cadence in a higher gear. The high cadence + low gear combination should reduce the strain on your joints since you don't have to push as hard. You just have to do it more often. I like to ride around 90rpm and sometimes drift up to 100-110 especially if I'm trying to ...


10

As I became more experienced I noticed that I began to spin at a higher cadence. I typically stay between 85-95 now, while when I started I spun at around 70. But cadence is a very individual thing, and bike fit can play a large part in how comfortable you are at a particular cadence. If you find that you want to pedal faster, but have difficulty ...


9

First off, unless you aspire to be a professional racer (or at least a highly competitive amateur) ignore the advice that you "must turn at least 90 rpm" or whatever. Secondly, even if you DO have such aspirations, you're not going to do well by trying to achieve a high cadence right from the start -- it's something that you must develop slowly. With ...


7

From experience and from what little I've read cadence beats power (and cadence with power is the winner) - in general you want to be turning the pedals more often with less effort in a smooth motion not stomping down each time. To which end you probably want your cadence to be in the 90+ region as consistently as possible (including when climbing) I'm not ...


6

If you want to change your cadence, just change it. Take your cruising gear on your bike and calculate what your current cruising cadence is. Let's say you usually cruise at 16mph and your typical cadence is 75. If you want to be at 90, go into a lower gear and try to keep the same speed. This will increase your cadence. The benefit of a high cadence is ...


6

Trek had a bicycle a few years ago named "Lime" which had 3 speed automatic gearing. I don't think it sold well. It used a gearing system called "Coasting" that was created by Shimano and actually controlled by a computer chip from signals from the front hub. "A dynamo is fitted on the front hub that gauges the revolutions of the wheel. It sends this ...


6

100 RPM minus your age. (Only half kidding.) 80-90 RPM is a good target for younger, fairly serious bikers. When I was in my 20s-30s I could do that for several hours. As I get older (I'm 63) I find it harder -- 70 RPM is probably closer to my "optimal" speed now, and I drift down toward 60 if I don't keep at it. One rule I tell folks that I think is ...


5

You don't quite supply enough information in your specific question (that is, "50RPM for 10 minutes with 39x23 with 10% hill") to provide a full answer in absolute terms but, if we assume you're riding a standard sized 700c bike there's enough information to make a good estimate in relative terms. First I'll give a short answer, then a rule of thumb that's ...


5

From my understanding, cycle computers can calculate this for you. For example, Specialized has accessories for adding cadence sensors to some of their computers. This seems to me to be the simplest way. There are also plenty of listings for them on Google.


5

Out on the road its a mixture. But first, are you able to measure your cadence? I use this as my guide (i.e. I try and keep my cadence within a certain range no matter what the gradient) - if I am able to pedal comfortably at over 80rpm, then its time to change to a bigger gear. If I'm unable to pedal comfortably at 65rpm, its time to go to a smaller gear. ...


4

In general I would recommend starting low. Your legs will go through an adjustment period and you may find that your knees get sore from a larger gear. After you've ridden for a few weeks pay attention to how you're riding. If you're in a hilly area are you struggling to get up the hills? Do you find that your cadence is regularly high enough that your hips ...


4

I have ridden one - it used weights thrown out by centrifugal force and springs to move the derailleur in and out. Horrible is all I can say. Maybe it was me not being used to it, but things like not being in the gear you left it in, and less than smooth changes - which you have not idea when they are going to happen, especially under power. The only ...


4

Fady listening to music while riding is probably the most dangerous thing you can do so do not explore that idea please.. With that said I use the edge 500 and it has loads of functionality and will most likely support all your needs. You will usually need to purchase a speed/ cadence sensor with it. Battery life is great so long as you have it set to turn ...


4

Optimum efficiency is usually quoted as being somewhere above 80rpm which is usually a good deal faster than most people spin. http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/triathlons/training/cycling-cadence1.htm


4

Right now I am at 159 hours of riding time on the battery which came with my GSC-10. Garmin's stated battery life for the GSC-10 is 1.4 years at one hour of riding per day which works out to 511 hours. (See page 51 of the Edge 500's Owner Manual) On the interweb I've come across two different suspected causes for low battery life on the GSC-10: Some ...


3

It is a matter of both fit (frame-geom, saddle position, stem & cranks), practice, and gearing. Everyone has a max RPM after which they start "bouncing" and you'll find this RPM is even lower if you're at a relatively low gear. Assuming the bike fits you properly, raising your max RPM is simply a matter of practice. This can't be done at will in one ...


3

You can use the calculator at http://bikecalculator.com, which will give you a reasonable estimate if you know the average grade of the hill, the day's temperature, and the wind speed/direction (probably not so relevant on a hill). A similar calculator is here so you can compare two methods. The website http://www.cyclingpowermodels.com has a host of ...


3

One aspect of cadence that hasn't been mentioned is that, ideally, the point of your gears is to allow you to maintain your optimal cadence and force on the pedals, while only varying your ground speed. If you had a ideal bicycle with an infinite number of gears, your pedaling cadence and force would be completely independent of uphills, flats, and downhills ...


3

I've always heard that lower cadences tend to put more stress on the knees, and I've definitely felt more knee pain after grinding away on higher gears on hill climbs and such, vs when I'm spinning more lightly on flatter terrain. It kind of makes sense when you think about it -- you have to apply higher pressure against the pedal riding a higher gear. That ...


3

There's a lot of theories about correct ways to pedal and different ways to do it, and different equipment setups that can either help you do it right or help you learn to do it right. But unless you're worried about small differences (like for competitive riding), it can be kept relatively simple. I'm sure we have some users who can talk more about specific ...


3

I've had my GSC 10 since 2008. I used to get about 1 to 2 months out of name brand CR2032 batteries, but have since switched to Harbor Freight batteries. I get about 4 to 6 weeks out of these (a four pack of these costs about the same as a single name brand battery). Like you said, it all depends on your riding habits and environment though. The above is ...


2

As you've surmised, optimizing a fixed gear for either uphill or downhill has its disadvantages. If you're going to be riding a fixed gear on the street, you're likely best off starting with a medium gear. 70" is pretty common, though you can go a bit higher if you're in a predominately flat region. For climbing, get used to bailing out from pedaling to ...


2

If you have a normal derailleur geared bike you can use it to work out what gear would work out best for you if you only had one gear to use. Simply ride your commute in one gear without changing gear. Pedal on the downhills rather than coast and see if you can keep up. After this experiment is over you will know what size chainring and sprocket works for ...


2

Theoretically, you could only measure power with a specialized instrument, usually an electronic (and expensive) torque meter embedded in a custom crankset or rear hub. For the state-of-the-art about this, take a look at http://www8.garmin.com/train-with-garmin/power-meter.html. It will point you a lot of other links on the subject. If you want, like your ...


2

The cadence you ride at is far less important than your abilities, such as efficiently, and your fitness. An authoritative reference on peddling efficiency is this Joe Friel blog post. The post outlines rationale describing the importance of efficiency and overviews of several pedalling drills. For some sample workouts using this type of drills, you could ...


2

I use the Garmin, originally with my iPhone, and since with my Garmin Edge 800. There's really nothing to discuss, it's been solid for at least 4 years, requires no set up, and just works, at least in my experience. I use the Wahoo iPhone dongle, when I use it for my iPhone, and when I use the iPhone to set up my power meter crank set. Both work well. I ...


2

I had the Garmin one (came with my Edge 500) and after about 6 months it died on me. After some reading it seems that the Garmin version is only water resistant. Living just outside of Vancouver BC I get a bunch of rain and ride in lots of wet. I even took it apart and the little screw that attaches the arm has no sealing so water just gets in. ...


2

There have been attempts over the years, but never particularly successful. One I recall used a 5-speed rear hub that was shifted by weights on the spokes, similar to a centrifugal governor. I expect that, with the new electric shifters, there will be some new attempts at it in the next year or two. With a computer it should be possible to be reasonably ...



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