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Con: Because there is only one side on the fork, it limits you to using disc brakes only, since there is no place to mount any type of rim brake solution.


It's not clear what is actually bent. From your picture, it is obvious what isn't bent: your fork is perfectly straight from the crown down to the drop outs. Also, the boot which covers the stanchion seems to be quite suggestively aligned with the fork; the bend seems to occur at the top of the boot, just before the head tube. If so, then it is in fact the ...


You should be able to find a second hand fork, with or without the headshok, fairly easily. The Headshok is not too hard to work with, I have an ISO406 fork built to bolt on for my custom touring bike and any framebuilder should be able to make a fork that fits. But I have never really looked at the stock forks to see whether they're designed to be removed ...


Aluminium doesn't like bending and rebending (try it with a soda can). I'd make sure that the frame isn't bent and if it isn't, then either get a new fork or an old fork from a donor bike. Your bike shop should help you do either. p.s. The headshock does limit which forks will fit on your bike as it changes the geometry.


The frame comes stock with 160mm rotor in front and a 140mm rotor in rear and uses a spacer for the front post mount only. From this link, it looks like you need the 20p spacer, which Avid says is OEM only. However the spacing dimensions are 12.5mm top and 7.5mm bottom. You can probably find spacers of those dimensions to mount it without the OEM spacer. ...


Like everyone, the first time I saw this fork I find it obvious that it must be weaker than conventional forks... Until I realized that conventional forks are not symmetrical at all. One side is the spring (air or metal spring) and the other side is the damper. This means the sides always works against each other. And the fork do not behave the same whether ...

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