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11

To answer your questions No, they are not safe to ride due to risk of the tube blowing out or the tire rolling off the rim. No, I do not think they are repairable (at home). If they were repaired I would not trust them again. I believe that this item is not fit for the purpose of a bicycle wheel. It should be returned to the place of purchase on those ...


5

UD, 3K and 12K specify the carbon weave pattern. 3K means there are 3,000 filaments per "tow", 12K means there are 12,000 and UD means unidirectional (no pattern): The construction of bike parts is always UD, only the top layer when naked can be specified to these different finish types. Also there is usually an option to choose between matte or glossy. ...


4

There are two answers to this question: (Money no object) Go out and buy yourself a carbon frame with all the trimmings. If you want to race, there is no better hardware option. (Money important) you say you haven't even begun to race yet. How do you know you'll like it? How do you know you'll be any good? If you go down a carbon route, you're ...


3

1) It's for show, just like the carbon fiber insert on my Leatherman Skeletool CX. See this question. 2) It's fine for touring provided its in good condition. However, you may still want to get a different seatpost depending on the adjustments available on this one.


3

On carbon frames I've used, they have had a single bolt clamp like this one, so it should be fine. Personally, I'd like to use a slightly bigger clamp and one of those rubber size-decreasing rings to avoid cracking the frame. If in doubt I'd phone up the manufacturer of the frame and ask!


3

I have built a direct drive (geared) recumbent mostly according to Garnet's specifications. The centerpiece is a Pinion gearbox that conviniently has a lot of gears (needed for a recumbent) and an internal freewheel (Pinion still recommend an "extra" freewheel in the backwheel for normal bikes - probably because the chain otherwise would keep turning when ...


2

I give you the following, that you can read here: Talking to Jason Marsh the mechanic of Greg Minaar 2012 DH World Cup Champion about ENVE DH rims (which are carbon), he said that, ”Once you have built them, you don’t need to do anything, the spokes remain tight and they don’t need truing and we use a lot less through the year as they are ...


2

These 38/50/60/88 numbers are the 'depth' of the wheel's aerodynamic rim, in millimeters. Let's take 38 for example. This means that from where the tire meets the wheel, the rim extends an additional 38 millimeters towards the hub. When you see 88, that means the rim extends 88 millimeters from the tire. Why does that matter? One of the biggest benefits of ...


2

If you have carbon rims (with a carbon braking surface) you will need appropriate brake pads, so as not to damage the rims. You do not have to use shimano brake shoes- most (possibly all?) rim brakes will take any brand of shoes. There is a carbon rim insert for Dura Ace, which might fit the ultegra shoes. However if there are no compatible pads for your ...


2

@DWGKNZ was right, turned out that there was a 3mm hex at the bottom. Picture of the removed plug, upside down: Thanks for quick and useful advice.


2

Unless you're standing on it, probably not, especially if its an external/exposed cam style quick release I'm assuming what you're seeing is just the legs coming in a little bit as the spacing is slightly wider than 100mm. As long as it's just a couple of mm, I woudn't worry about it.


2

Please don't hammer it from the front. You risk rotating the nut and completely jamming it in the carbon. Keep at it for a few days with penetrating oil. If that doesn't help: Try to remove the nut by pulling it out from the rear. I would suggest finding out what size bolt will fit through the entire nut (perhaps M4). Get a long bolt or piece of threaded ...


2

I'd avoid doing this. Basically, you do a light (typically wet) sanding by hand (very carefully), prime it with an appropriate primer (maybe a few times) and then paint over it with an appropriate color. However, since the sanding has to be done carefully (since its easy to destroy carbon fiber by sanding), you're going to end up paying someone a lot of ...


2

You could theoretically damage any frame in that manner. Tubes are meant to support a load from either end, not in the middle. No bike is designed to support a great deal of weight on the top tube. Theoretically carbon, steel and titanium could all flex/bend and resume their normal shape, where aluminum couldn't, but nonetheless it still isn't a good idea ...


1

After traumatically sudden failures of a carbon seatpost, and shortly after, a carbon wheel, both resulting into painful crashes, I decided that my next fancy bike would not be a carbon fibre one, but titanium. I ended up buying a Cube HPT (frame made by Lynskey). After two years of moderate use (no crashes) I discovered a horizontal crack across the weld on ...


1

0down vote I also have built a direct drive geared bike. http://comfybikes.blogspot.com.au/p/blog-page_22.html But am interested how Joakim managed to modify the Pinion gears to fit them in the hub? Could NuVinci CVT be modified for the purpose?


1

I would not be afraid to let anybody stand on my carbon fiber, aluminum, or steel bike. If standing on the top tube breaks the bike, it would be liable to break after any minor mishap, and you're safer getting it repaired or replaced. Bikes are sturdy -- even CF road bikes.


1

A good rule of thumb is: if you spend less than $2000 get aluminium instead of carbon as you'll get more bang for your buck. A good quality aluminium frame with some nicer wheels will generally give a better/faster ride than an entry-level carbon bike (bought just for the sake of having carbon!). The slight performance/comfort benefits of a more expensive ...


1

You need to check with the manufacturer of your bars (and the grips you're choosing), but in most cases its not a problem. As with all things carbon fiber, don't over tighten anything. Some manufacturers have specific grips which are marketed as carbon fiber friendly. For example, Easton's lock on grips are marketed as being friendly with carbon bars. ...


1

If you're really that concerned, get a roll of 3M "copter tape" and cut it to the same size as the cleat. Given the cleat should never move, the most you should get is a bit of marking where the cleat sits which you'll never see as the cleat should never move (and it's helpful when you're replacing cleats)


1

Your assumptions are right on, the carbon fiber stays are definitely our biggest obstacle. They prevent you from being able to powder coat the aluminum, the risk of damaging the carbon fiber from heat in the process is too great. A professional in town should be able to properly mask the carbon fiber and sandblast or glass bead blast the aluminum. I believe ...


1

According to the Shimano groupset page, both brake options for the Ultegra Di2 6870 groupset (BR-6800, BR-6810) ship with the Shimano R55C4 pads, which are designed for carbon rims. So more than likely, either the brakes are not setup correctly, or the Shimano pads suck.



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