Hot answers tagged cassette
14
If you want to maximize your max. speed, go for an 11 tooth cog. If you want to maximize your average speed, unless you're a pro you probably are better off without it. Even cruising at 40km/h does not require and 11 tooth cog.
For example, take a look at this table, showing cruising speeds for a 11- 21 tooth cassette:
And compare to this table for a 12 - ...
9
You'll probably need to replace the cassette as well.
Generally once the chain has worn ("stretched") a little, it starts to wear down all the gears (front and back) that it touches. If there's enough wear that the front chainrings need to be replaced, it's almost certain that the gears on the cassette that you use most are also worn enough to need ...
9
Most of the noise comes from pawls on the freewheel hitting against the splines on the engagment surfaces which makes up the racheting unit.
Some reasons for the noise between freewheels?
Tension on pawls could be higher causing more noise as they glide over the engagment surfaces
High end freewheels have more pawls and engagement points than lower end ...
8
Ultimately it's a trade-off between a wider range of gears and bigger jumps between those gears. There will always be uphills that are too steep for your lowest gear and downhills where you spin out. If you try to fix both problems with a wider range cassette (your triple already has a great range) you may find that you're never quite in the "right" gear ...
8
That's an impressive amount of mileage on a single chain. Especially on a narrow 11-speed one. I'm guessing that you keep everything very well maintained and don't ride in much wet weather?
The two main problems you'll get from a worn cassette are:
Skipping chain (either between cogs or jumping on a single cog)
Premature chain wear (as the chain ...
8
Drivetrain components tend to wear in this order:
Chain
Rear cassette/sprockets
Front chainrings
(and the teeth on your derailleur's jockey wheels may last, but the bearings may not)
The chain is usually the culprit for wearing out the other two. As it wears, the distance between links effectively increases, and the mismatch between the links and teeth ...
8
The spacing between 9 speed and 10 speed is controlled at the shift lever.
A 10 speed rear dérailleur will work with a 9 or 10 speed cassette and shifter. A 9 speed rear dérailleur is not compatible with 10 speed.
The width of the chain and the cogs is the biggest issue. The pulleys on a 10 speed dérailleur are narrower, and a 10 speed chain will not rest ...
8
No, you will need to get a whole new cassette, the largest 3 rings are connected to each other, you cannot just purchase individual cogs. You may want to get a new chain as you will probably need to make a chain length change with jumping from a 25T to 27T or 28T largest cog.
Do you know if you have the SS or the GS?
With the SS (short cage) you can go as ...
8
Assuming you have Shimano-compatiple Hyperglide cogs: No, you can't.
The cassette body is not symmetric, the cassette fits in only one position.
You could resort to adapt the cogs with a file, though. But shifting will be problematic at least, the cogs have certain indents to make shifting smoother.
8
The problem is that any rear cluster designed for indexed shifting has directional cogs. There are ramps embossed on the sides of the cogs to catch the chain pins and lever the chain up to the next larger cog when the chain is shifted. If you somehow reverse the cogs these ramps will be on the wrong side of the cogs and will be running the wrong direction.
...
8
For me, and for many riders that come through my shop, the 11-25 is missing the critical 16t cog, which (at least for me) is the sweet spot. That is, the gear which I don't tend to spin out of, and that doesn't turn in to a grind fest.
If I'm doing a Euro trip, then I will run an 11-28, with a compact front. But at home, for daily riding, a standard 53/39 ...
6
If you're saying that, off the body, the sprockets move slightly relative to each other, that's not a problem. The sprockets are only just "tacked" together so that they remain in the right order and orientation while off the body. The body provides the strength to hold them.
If, on the other hand, you notice that the sprockets slide up and down the body ...
5
A spacer to convert an 8/9 speed freehub to 7 speed freehub goes behind the cassette, between the hub shell and the cassette. Most cassette lock rings will not bind on the spacer, they will go inside it if you place it on the outside.
In addition, the aluminum used in most cassette spacers is too soft, and would compress under direct compression from the ...
5
I've heard different rules of thumb (rule of thumbs?) about how much use you can get, and remember none of them. What I do know is that not lubeing a chain often enough--actually, cleaning and lubeing--will cause it to wear such that it 'stretches'. Not stretch like taffy, but gain overall length due to the pins and bushings in the links wearing down, ...
5
You may need to change your cassette with your chain due to damage, but only if your bike has missed out on some previous maintenance. If you ride one chain beyond the point of wear, it will damage both cassette and chain rings to different degrees.
Your chain is a consumable component on your bike.
For most people, 1200-1500 kilometers on a chain is a ...
5
A cadence of 70 RPM while climbing is not unusually low, so switching to a lower gear may just encourage you to slow down instead of making you more efficient. But the only way to know for sure is to try it and measure the difference.
There isn't necessarily a right cadence. The article Technique - Pedal like a pro reports that seven pro cyclists (a small ...
4
Assuming Shimano components.... You shouldn't have any difficulty with compatibility. However, as noted above, you need to find out if you have a cassette/freehub or a freewheel.
At 20 years old I imagine you're looking at a freehub...
And likely 7 speeds. If you want to go to a more-modern 8-speed cassette, the spacing should be the same but you'd need ...
4
Without experience, or obvious damage, a cassette gauge like the one from Rohloff, or mileage are your best options for deciding when to replace a cassette. For me, a good rule of thumb has been:
10 chains = 2 cassettes = 1 set chain rings
That is, I change my chain every 1200-1500km. I change the cassette on the 5th time I change the chain. And I change ...
4
The 14/28 is the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cog of the cassette. From your description you want to make at least the second number smaller, possibly the first number.
As long as your replacement says that it's Shimano compatible (and 7 speed), you should be fine. Count the teeth on the cog that has the most teeth that you actually ...
4
I had the same problem (48x38x28 chainset). It turned out that MF-TZ21 is actually not a 'cassette', but a 'freewheel'. Your options for that are very limited: In the UK, Raleigh is distributing a 7 speed 13-24T model for less than 10 quid. SunRace is still producing 7 speed freewheels, but the closed-spaced 12-?? model wasn't distributed in the UK: Check ...
4
As you suspected, you may not run a 7 speed free hub with a 9 speed hub shell. You will need a new 9 speed free hub, and continue to use the spacer ass you have been.
Hubs are not generically sized. Each model is sized for the number of gears it is expected to work with. Replacing the freehub will mess with your dropout spacing, or the position of the ...
4
Some people will never get the chance to use the 11 teeth setting, whether this is through not being fit enough or another reason.
So they can opt for the slightly longer expected lifespan of the 12 (lower wear per tooth) and the slightly narrower gap between ratios which can make gear changing less of a struggle.
4
No.
It's best, though not always entirely necessary, that the number of speeds match. There are some cross-compatible options, but if you're unsure it's better to just stick with a derailleur and cassette that were designed to work together.
It's also important to consider the size of the cassette in comparison to the amount of chain slack that the ...
4
If you replace the crankset you almost certainly get new front sprockets. Compared to the cost of the crankset and sprockets a new chain is chicken feed, so get a new chain.
Whether you need to replace the rear cassette is a whole 'nother question, pretty much independent from the front. If the cassette is badly worn it may cause your chain to wear ...
4
There are really three components to the multi-speed hub:
The hub proper, and most of the bearings
The ratchet mechanism that allows the hub to "freewheel"
The sprocket cluster
On older bikes the sprocket cluster and ratchet mechanism are combined, whereas on newer bikes the hub and ratchet mechanism are combined.
As with "clipless pedals", the ...
3
"Vibration" could indicate a bad chain angle or a misadjusted derailer. On the other hand, it's typical to have smoothest operation near the middle of the cluster and some very slight noise/vibration higher and lower. Hard to say whether you have a problem or not without knowing the precise nature and severity of what you're experiencing.
Note that a ...
3
If the bearings are sealed (so dirt can't get into the bearing), and there isn't an interface (two surfaces rubbing together), than lube is probably not needed. Adding lube may actually create a dirt-trap as more dirt sticks rather than just getting in there and falling back out.
The threads, certainly. Packing in behind the lock ring? Not so much.
3
You don't need to buy NOS. 7 speed cassettes are still manufactured, we stock them and they start at $20 all the way up to $36 for a Shimano HG50 which comes in 12-28. Go with a matching Shimano HG50 chain.
Unless you buy a new rear wheel, you cannot go above 7 speed. 7 speed freehub bodies are shorter than 8+ speed freehub bodies. An 8+ speed cassette is ...
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