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2

With reference to the new/used bits of your question, note that using worn consumables (chain, cassette etc.) on a bike is never a good idea, largely because you're in the dark as regards how much life is left in them. So my best guess is that the chain or maybe both chain and the cassette needs replacing for new parts. Assuming that these parts are ...


2

You can make sure you don't mix and match mountain and road drivetrain parts if you haven't inspected them. Although the spline pattern is the same on both, the spline depth is not. Going with a higher grade cassette will make the problem worse (much worse). Your all titanium Dura-Ace cassette will cut through your aluminum mountain freehub body "like ...


-1

Honestly, there isn't anything you can do. As the pressure to make bikes lighter increased, engineers looked a steel parts to replace with aluminum. Your freehub body is a casualty of that fight. For my race bikes I have the same problem with Zipp and Mavic freehub bodies. You just have to suck it up. It's the price of lightness. A more permanent and ...


1

Those teeth are severely worn, just by visual inspection. Try a new cassette, chain rings, and chain. (Don't try changing just one.) It could have been the grime that was holding the worn system together, and when you cleaned it all the play now shows up. In the future, if you replace your chain more often you can make the chain rings last longer.


1

The first thing to check is that your rear wheel can take a 10 speed cassette. If this is the case, then you can move to step two, which is picking compatible rear derailleurs and shifters. A 10 speed Shimano road shifter needs a 7-9 speed mountain/road rear derailleur or a 10 speed road derailleur. A 10 speed Shimano mountain shifter needs a 10 speed ...


1

yes it will work. I tested it already. 6/7/8 speed chains are all the same width. so meaning. the cassette's width is the same too.


7

The problem is the Tiagra 12-28 is kind of special as it has a more gradual transition between ratios and less aggressive gearing all the way to the middle of the cassette, where the 105 and Ultegra cassettes with a similar total range have a less gradual change and drop much more quickly into more aggressive ratios. We can compare the tooth counts to see ...


4

A couple of things I see: I think your derailleur is a bit out of adjustment and is "leaning" towards the lower gears. It's grabbing on the ramps of the lower gear as it goes by. Your B screw adjustment is a bit too far away from the cassette. I would try to get it within a link or link and half. It looks from the video that you are about 2-3 links ...


0

Whenever I have had a problem with a regular clicking noise coming from the chain - it has been either a stiff link (which goes as the chain loosens up through use) or a split pin on the chain ie. the pin has detached from one side of the chain. It can be hard to spot but worth examining for.


0

That's weird! It sounds like slack being taken up on the cranks, but the image doesn't match that. Try separating the components - take the wheel out, can you feel any notchiness on spinning the cassette? Diagnostic Ideas: Take the chain off, and feel it for stiff or grotty link. Then clean it and measure it for wear. While chain is off, inspect the ...



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