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9

They look like you want those "in" the horizontal dropout. The bracket should cover the frame and as you tighten the bolt it will pull the axle further away from the cranks, tightening the chain along with it. Be careful to not over tighten as you want a little 'slack' in the chain. Also, it is very easy to tighten one side more than the other resulting ...


0

the Giant site it says that this is sold with a KMC Z51 1/2" * 3/32" chain. So it should have a 3/32" chain. I've since gone to two different shops who have both sold what appears to be the same sized chain (1/2" * 1/8") 1/8" = 4/32". That's more than 3/32". which isn't fitting, as it's too wide. Funny that. 1/8" chain isn't stronger unless ...


1

Given the bike operates like a single speed and all the gearing is in the hub, you should be fine removing the chainguard. Be warned though if you cycle in trousers this increases the chance of losing your trouser leg to the bite of chain meeting chainring. You're also more likely to increase the chance of the dreaded chain grease tattoo on legs or trousers. ...


0

Further to Blam's answer about the position of the pulley (which takes up the slack in the chain), my hybrid/touring bike was recently serviced by a very experienced French shop mechanic of racing bikes. He put on a chain which was too short (i.e. it pulled tight and jammed) if, when I rode it, I cross-chained it onto both big rings: and when I told him ...


5

Crossing chaining hasn't been any problem at all since the invention of bushless chains 20+ years ago and wasn't even a real problem back in the ancient days. It's a persistent myth that just won't die... Your bike should leave the shop capable of shifting into any combo of gears possible and riding any amount of time you like in that gear. At most I would ...


-1

What your mechanic said, is true for most drivetrains. And there's absolutely no point in using extreme combinations, such as 1:8 or 3:1, as they are doubled by 2:somethings (first number meaning the front gear, second for rear gear). All you need is all 2:x plus probably no more than 1:1, 1:2, 3:7 and 3:8. Here's a ratio calculation I made for a 11-32 ...


2

Are all of those pictures in the same gear? Big in front and 4th in rear? On the picture of the derailleur it is pretty much maxed out giving chain length. Notice it is swung way forward. When you go small small it is the opposite. The derailleur has to take up the maximum amount of chain - swing back. Most likely your derailleur will not take the ...


13

You have a double front, right? The usual advice is to not shift into the highest 3 gears in the rear cassette when in front the chain is on the large chainring, and to not shift into the smallest 3 cogs, when the chain in front is on the small chainring. This prevents 'cross-chaining', which wears the chain fast, produces noise and difficult shifting. ...


8

Not using the upper and lower gears is a very effective solution. Stupid, but effective. Traditionally one would simply use the limit screws (at the rear derailleur, often marked L(ow) and H(igh)). Shift to the lowest/highest gear (front and rear) and tighten the screw so that it only allows the mech to move ever so slightly over the edge of the ...


0

As Daniel surmised, the issue was alignment of the rear derailleur hanger. Some creative bending by my LBS held me off for a while until I finally brought it too close to the hub on a hill and torqued the whole thing into a twisted mess. Swapping in a new derailleur of the exact same type (and new hanger) cured it completely.


0

If you have a chain hanger braze on or a chain slap braze on, the chain may have been looped onto the wrong side. Reassembly got it onto the right side.



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