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I think you answered your own question. The huge gap will mean you need to use a long chain for the big ring and you may not have enough movement in the rear mech to tighten it if you're in the small ring. My guess would be you'll suck the chain into the rear wheel in some combination of gears and, at best, snap your hanger, at worse damage your frame. ...


Sounds like your crank bearing. I had the same problem. It would only do it while I was riding. Drove me crazy. If it happens every crank rotation, this could be culprit


That last photo shows the chain on a smaller chainring. Notice the air-gap under the chain? That is a clear sign that the chainring is worn and the "effective" gap between teeth is now larger. So instead of the load being shouldered by multiple teeth, one single tooth carries the load for an instant, accelerating wear of the chain and the tooth. You're ...


If the chain rings are badly worn, its almost certain the cassette (rear cogs) and chain need replacing. do not change the chain rings on their own. The chain rings on most cranks can be replaced. Some cheaper ones (mostly kids bikes) use rivets, and you need to replace the whole crank set. If possible, the easiest thing to do is replace chain rings with ...


If your crank arms are in good shape, you could just get the chainring(s) and not the whole crankset. You "should" also get chain and cassette as the rear cassette could be more worn than you can see and the chain will not run smoothly and could jump around on you.

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