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If you mean Vancouver, BC, I live to the south of you between Tacoma and Seattle and commute 7 miles one-way up and down hills year-round. I use a steel touring bike with a front triple and wide gearing on the rear, though I really only use the granny for hills on longer touring rides. No bar-ends for me in commuting. I need to change gears too often and ...


1

You might find more general commuter bike buying, and bicycle commuting advise in these questions: What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute? Bicycle for 2 x 30mins commute My general advise for your specific points would be: Rain IMHO means you want fenders, unless you enjoy turning up at work with mud (or worse) all over your ...


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Generally you should try the bike, and see if how it feels, including using the components feels good to you, if not look for something else. If you will be riding no matter what the weather is, I would recommend looking for bike that has internal hub brakes, a full chain-case (which with gearing would normally require hub gears too), and full mud guards ...


9

For a city commuter bike, don't bother with disk brakes - go for simple rim brakes. You'll want the reliability over all else. You don't need disks for most types of road cycling, as the limiting factor for grip is likely to be your tyre anyway. As regards shifters, go with whatever is comfortable for you. I like the combination of brakes and gear levers in ...


6

1- Disc brakes perform better in wet weather. If you choose rim brakes, aluminum rims offer a better braking surface than carbon rims. Hidraulic brakes adjust for pad wear and both pads move inwards to press against the disc surface. Mechanical brakes push one pad (usually the outer one) onto the disc, and the disc has to flex to touch the other pad. 2.- ...



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