Hot answers tagged clamp
I had an exactly same problem: Ritchey WCS seatpost, Merida frame (both alu alloy) and a lightweight clamp, like in @Frisbee's answer. What I tried: Beefy clamp with various torque settings. Didn't help at all. PVC tape. Helped, but didn't last long. More torque on a lightweight clamp. I snapped it in half with only 6Nm. Hair spray. To my surprise, it ...
DMR make hinged clamps for mounting chain devices and bottle cages. 3 different sizes and there is a 31.8mm which should be perfect. Easy job to retro-fit an existing QR lever and bolt I reckon? Part Number: DMR-CLP-286 Alternatively here is something from a different application that would probably work. You might be able to contact the company for a ...
Typically, for an aluminum post you align the gaps. For a carbon post you turn the clamp 180 degrees from the gap in the seattube to minimize the chance of crimping the seatpost. Some manufacturers have their own recommendations, but they're typically in line with what the aforementioned guidelines.
Since you already modified the frame a lot, I would go further and modify it again by welding two "ears" where you could attach a real quick release, something like the picture shown below: Another possibility would be to use a (cheap?) steel clamp which you could bend open, then wrap around the frame and put the quick release through. Steel will probably ...
After trying a chunkier clamp and hairspray, I found this Clamp did not help much, the hairspray was better, but I was a little concerned about the solvent stuff in the aerosol. The Liquid Torque has been applied and I have done over 120 miles since, with not even a millimetre of slippage! Thanks for the other answers ...
Aligning the gaps will allow the clamp to compress the tube a little better, therefore reducing the amount of tension needed from the clamp to hold the seat post in. And less tension means a longer life for your seat post clamp. Now, there's the issue of which way your clamp lever faces if you use a quick release clamp. Most have it facing backwards so it ...
Sounds like a perfect use for a "wedge" seat post. Animal bikes has one, other companies might make longer ones. You'd need to get a Pivotal seat to go with it.
On carbon frames I've used, they have had a single bolt clamp like this one, so it should be fine. Personally, I'd like to use a slightly bigger clamp and one of those rubber size-decreasing rings to avoid cracking the frame. If in doubt I'd phone up the manufacturer of the frame and ask!
The Cinelli spec for this bike lists it as "clamp on" and your picture definitely shows a clamp on style front derailleur. While it does seem like the factory build comes with a Cinelli branded clamp, if the frame you are buying is missing that part, you shouldn't have any trouble with a campy clamp, like this one: If you are buying a a new campy ...
Position the clamp so that the open section of the clamp is oriented to the slot in the frame. If the frame slot faces the rear the opening in the clamp should also face the rear.
Figured this one out after a bit of work. If you look from the back side, you will see that there is a gap in the metal. This is to allow compression to clamp the seat tightly. Put the clamp on the frame of the bike, and if there is a quick release, tighten the nut hand tight. Then put the seat at the right level, facing the right direction, and close the ...
According to a forumer working in bike building industry (SUNN, France), mounting the seat post clamp with its gap on top of the seat tube gap is important to ensure an equal and secure gripping.
0.2mm on seatpost clamp will make no difference! The tolerence is small maybe 1-2mm. a 0.2mm difference is pretty much how far the clamp moves when you tighten the binder! maybe even more. Youll see how far it moves when you take the binder off the frame and tighten it a little. the clamp goes smaller basically clamping down. so in practice it clamps the ...
My two cents: If you align the gap in the tube with the gap in the clamp, the grip will be much stronger. You'll need less force in the lever to hold the seatpost in place. If you keep them counter-aligned, you'll exert considerably less pressure, and there is a chance that the pressure will be "more evenly" distributed, although I don't "feel" it to be ...
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