Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

8

The problem is that any rear cluster designed for indexed shifting has directional cogs. There are ramps embossed on the sides of the cogs to catch the chain pins and lever the chain up to the next larger cog when the chain is shifted. If you somehow reverse the cogs these ramps will be on the wrong side of the cogs and will be running the wrong direction. ...


8

Assuming you have Shimano-compatiple Hyperglide cogs: No, you can't. The cassette body is not symmetric, the cassette fits in only one position. You could resort to adapt the cogs with a file, though. But shifting will be problematic at least, the cogs have certain indents to make shifting smoother.


7

I think these may be what you're looking for. FYI, a lot of this information is available with a little searching. Depending on what exactly you are looking for, you might want to look up a document for a specific cassette as the numbers might be slightly different. Spacer widths (From Shimano tech docs) 8 Spd: 3.00mm 9 Spd: 2.56mm 10 Spd: 2.35mm (1.0mm ...


7

Chains for modern bicycles all have a 1/2" pitch - the distance from roller to roller or from pin to pin. However, multi-speed bicycles have rollers that are 3/32" wide (or narrower), while many single speed drivetrains (fixies, track bikes, BMX) have rollers that are 1/8" wide. Similarly, there are chainrings and cogs which accommodate wider or narrower ...


6

The outer ring looks like a lock ring. This should help you get it off:


6

The key property is hardness. For uniform materials (like cogs), hardness directly affects wear resistance. The harder the metal the longer it will last. Some digging around wikipedia suggests that typical Brinell hardness values are: pure aluminium 15HB, 6061-T6 aluminium (heat treated) 95 HB mild steel 120HB, 4130 CroMo steel 183-217 HB (90-96 ...


4

Getting a 7-speed (or indeed any) Campy cassette wouldn't do you much good anyway since the rest of your drivetrain will be Shimano. As you've discovered the two don't mix. (Or rather, they are not supposed to mix and you can expect problems if you do try to mix them. Never say never, I guess!) I reckon your cheapest option could be to visit your LBS and to ...


4

Running 1x9 is a great idea. I have done it with relatively good success. There were always times on big rides i wish i had a granny.I also intially had issues on chain drop. Because the 9 speed rear, bumpy and rocky terrain can knock the chain off when the derailleur would slap. To prevent chain drop on the front, you can run a bash guard, and an N-gear ...


3

If your chain was measured and is worn, then by all means replace it. You are going to cause more wear to your bike using a worn chain than having slightly worn sprockets. A worn chain causes uneven wear on the teeth of your chainrings and cassette cogs, eventually this can cause issues with shifting and 'chain suck'. The new chain you selected looks ...


2

Ah the internet. Answered my own Q: It takes about a minute. Yay! Watch at 2:13: Replace Fixed Cog For DIY: need a chainwhip and a lockring wrench / lockring spanner ...or a multi-tool with chainwhip & lockring wrench! Done.


2

According to Sheldon Brown's website: New Chainrings, Old Chains Going the other direction, using wider chains with chainrings intended for narrower chains is not generally a major problem if there's only a one- or two- generation difference. The only problem you might run into is that the chain will be more liable to rub on the inside of the bigger ...


2

I would certainly give a lot of attention to the chainring and lockring. One question that I think you need to answer is whether the lockring was loose before the incident or did the chain jamming the cog cause the lockring to come adrift. Then you need to consider whether the lockring loosened naturally, i.e. did it turn along the thread, or was it forced ...


2

In the MTB world, it's only XC (and closely related) disciplines that run a triple ring. Just take off the rings you don't want anymore and buy a chain device. If you only really do XC, then there is no need a buy a burly DH chain device with a bash guard, you just need one that has two rollers to squeeze the chain - as it joins and leaves the front ring.


2

Just about any new bike you ever purchase will need a good tune up after the first 100 miles, not unlike a lot of cars or motorcycles. It's perfectly normal for most of the parts, especially parts under tension like brakes and cables, to settle and loosen a bit the first few times you ride the bike. It's likely that the cable for the rear shifter has ...


2

There are tools for measuring cassette wear. http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/hg_check/ And of course there is visual inspection and also how it rides / indexes, particularly under heavy load (when it will usually slip if worn).


1

Because there exist so many cassette styles and tooth profiles, no universal tool for measuring cassette wear exists. One good advice to assist visual inspection is this. We all have our favorite speeds. Compare the most worn 2-3 cogs with the rest. If their profile is very different, the cassete is probably worn. The video documents how to do that. There ...


1

You might have bought the wrong width chain. For road bikes/fixie there are two possibilities. These are the width of the chain. 3/32" and 1/8" a 3/32" chain will not fit on a 1/8" cog but a 1/8" chain will fit on a 3/32" cog (but with extra space around the teeth). If it is the length of the chain you are talking about then get a new chain. but the ...


1

I've not done this, but I beleive the threads are compatible with a standard fixed gear cog. If so, just buy a cog and install it. Then put a lockring from an adjustable bottom bracket on as a lockring (it has the same threads as the hub). Note that this will not works as well as a proper fixie hub, most obviously because it's missing the left hand ...


1

Add a spacer and re-dish. Or move some spacers from the non drive side over the the drive side (if they exist) if you don't want to open up the frame (that will require opening up the hub likely). 1mm is not a big deal. You will also have to fiddle with the limits on your derailleur and adjust shifting accordingly. Or get a different cogset with something ...


1

As a "home solution" for a lockring wrench, I've seen photos of people taking a large pair of waterpump pliars, ( buy a cheap pair with the proper jaw width ), and then grinding out a "slot" just back of the tips of the jaws so the tips would fit down into the "U" shaped cutouts and serve as a lockring tool to remove the outer ring from the cog.


1

Did this sound start when you took the biek to the LBS? What else did the LBS touch? See if you can take the chain guard off temporarily to see if the sound goes away. Your description also sounds a lot like a BB that the shop overtightened or under tightened. If you have a torque wrench you could investigate this yourself, otherwise I would take it back ...


1

I've occasionally had this when the drive side axle was slipping in the drop out. When enough torque was applied to the pedals the axle moved just enough that the front of the tyre was rubbing on the inside of the left chain stay. You could check the paint there and see if there is any evidence of rubbing. If this is the problem, a chain tug would solve it. ...


1

First, to answer the question asked: you can use them physically, but the shifting performance will suffer. Second, there is no limitation on the wheel, for a campy 8 speed hub. Put a 10 speed campy group on the bike. 8/9/10 speed are all the same, unless you truly have a freewheel, as opposed to a cassette. For 8 speed campy, that is fairly unlikely, but ...


1

If you convert your current triple chainset to single you might have to change the chainring bolts also (I've had to on 2 bikes). When removing inner and outer and fitting a bash-guard ring, you might need longer/deeper bolts because bash-guards are often thicker at the drilled fixing lugs than a chainring. When removing inner and middle, and leaving ...


1

Fixed gears don't have as much tolerance for mismatched wear patterns as geared bikes, because there is no "give" in the drive train system. The small amount of wear shown on the used cog is enough to cause this kind of noise in the case of a fixie. I'd be surprised if the same amount of wear caused you any problems at all on a geared machine. It's also ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible