Hot answers tagged commuting-bike
22
Equipment/Accessories:
Fenders — keep you dry if it's rained recently. I prefer the "full-coverage" kind with a mudflap, but anything that keeps you from getting a stripe up your back is probably sufficient.
Regular platform pedals (or even better: BMX style pedals) - clips or clipless and frequent stops don't go well together and might mean needing ...
16
Here I'll summarize everyone else's answers (because of all the Q+A scattered through in the comments), with some additional information that I got elsewhere from reading inspired by people's answers.
Wheels+tires: 700 x (28 - 38, maybe ~30), tires; slicks or light treads, not knobbly. The larger wheel makes it faster (because of 'gearing') and the ride a ...
13
I would defiantly not rush out and buy a new expensive bike. Here are the steps you should follow:
1) Try to make your bike faster. There are a few ways that you can do this but I am going to make two suggestions that will be cheap and easy.
Get slick (smooth) tires. The should put you back around $60 but should give you a good idea of what a road ...
13
Reliability
True commuter bikes are built for day-in and day-out reliability. As far as breaking down, you have little to worry about as a commuter bike is designed to take massive amounts of abuse and neglect and still function. While you could have a part failure like any other bike, these are uncommon and the most frequent (the flat tire) is easily fixed. ...
12
50 miles per day is a fair amount of riding. 4 hours sounds about right when you take into account traffic stops, hills, etc. If you're not used to putting in this kind of distance -- not to mention a full day's work too -- then it's not surprising that you're tired.
Before splurging on a new bike, try some of the modifications others have suggested. ...
12
You have two options, essentially: You can either carry each day's clothing on every trip, or store clothing at work.
Carrying clothing daily
If you're going to do this, you'll need to find a way to roll up your clothing so it's not completely wrinkled. Be aware that even packing clothing in the most wrinkle-free way possible will still not keep it as ...
11
Jan Heine performed some wind tunnel tests of "Real World Aerodynamics" a few years ago. A link to a blog post (and the results published in Bicycle Quarterly) can be found here. Those tests cover only one component (the aero drag component) of commuter-type bicycles vs. "racing" bikes.
If you want to make your own apples-to-apples comparisons of ...
10
For my commuting needs, I use Continental Gatorskins 700x28c. I also use Mr Tuffy liners to help protect against punctures. Using this combination, I haven't had a flat in 2 years. Before going to this combination, I would get about 1 flat a month. I travel about 14 km a day, 5 days a week, April to the end of November.
I recommend that you leave enough ...
9
My main resources for pretty much anything include:
Sheldon Brown
In particular:
sheldonbrown: how-to-fixed-conversion
sheldonbrown: fixed-conversion
Loads of general wrenching info at
Park Tool
And of course a friendly local bike shop.
Look out for a bike co-op or skills-sharing non-profit/community organization. They may run classes and provide ...
9
Personally I prefer the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres in a sensible width, 28 will do nicely or 1.5 (instead of 1.35) if using MTB or folding bike. To the pressure written on the sidewall, checked weekly for embedded glass and correct pressure.
The likelihood of getting flats on properly maintained Marathon Plus is practically zero. On every other tyre brand ...
8
Go to your local bike shop or MEC and talk to them.
You want a commuter - also called urban bikes.
Thin(ish) tires so you aren't doing too much work, straight bars, hydraulic disk brakes would be good. Hub gears mean everything is internal so out of the weather - but if anything goes wrong you're stuck, dérailleur gears are fine if you clean the chain ...
8
Another option is to have a rack on your car to transport your bike, then.
You drive to the outside of the town where you work and park before you hit the traffic jams
then get the bike of the car and cycle past all the traffic jams
And/Or
Day 1 am – you drive to work
Day 1 pm – you leave your car at work and cycle home
Day 2 am – you cycle to work
...
8
I am going to second @freiheit suggestion that you reconsider the drop bars. You commute is going to be roughly 90+ minutes each way in an urban setting and you will want the extra had positions. You can still get a geometry that is relaxed and gives you a more upright position.
When my commute got longer (15+ miles one way) I switched from a converted ...
8
For a short commute in street clothes I opted for flat bars with bar end extentions. This allows some different hand positions and for me a more comfortable upright position. If you are riding for the first time is several years, bike fit is more critical than bar type. A bike that is the wrong size will never be comfortable no matter what type bar it has.
7
I have a pair of SKS Race Blades (e.g. from Wiggle). They clip on and off really easily, for washing, security or just for the long days of summer when rain is decidedly unlikely. They are reasonably small and should fit all but the tightest of clearances.
For all the reasons you mention, I use them - cleanliness of my legs, back, bag and chain - but also ...
7
The real answer is that for a 9km ride, virtually any bike will do the trick. It's hard to be uncomfortable on a bike (that fits you) for that short of a ride.
However, I'm fully in the road bike camp on this question. Hybrids are, in my opinion, a compromise with no real benefits. Most people aren't going to ride them off-road (and most road bikes can deal ...
7
I love a good drop bar, but if you're only going 4 miles, an upright position might be more comfortable for you, especially if you're starting to commute for the first time.
Start with your basic commuter bike if you want, something that looks like this, with some flat handle bars.
http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/TrekBicycleProducts/52049
Head to a bike ...
6
If it's not broken, don't fix it. The act of folding ourselves onto a bicycle, (especially one with any kind of aerodynamic advantage over a mountain bike) is not a natural-looking position for a human body. We're built to be more or less upright, which is not an aerodynamic position on the bike.
So, if you're comfortable on your bike and feel like you're ...
6
Bike chains come in two sizes, 1/8inch (aka BMX chain) and 3/32inch (aka 9 speed chain). 1/8inch chains are designed for single speed or internal hub geared bicycles and the chain is designed in such a way that it can not be derailed from the sprocket. A 3/32inch chain is designed for a derailleur geared bicycle and is designed to ease shifting from one ...
6
If you've tried it on your "old mountain bike" then almost anything you could take from the shop when you walk in with your £1000 with be a better experience.
If you're in the UK, while you can, I'd look at the Cycle to Work scheme (if your employer operates it). It does at least make your money go a little further (and gives you longer to pay it off).
...
6
Interestingly, Scientific American had an article about this a few years ago. According to the article, which cites a few studies, women are less comfortable with on-road biking than men, particularly in areas with auto traffic. As most roads are primarily for auto use, women tended to find routes which avoid these roads, making commuting a bit more ...
6
Tire size is not a sure indicator of flat resistance. As Kibbee notes, proper inflation pressure, road character, riding style.... All factors.
I rarely get flats; can't remember when I had one last riding on the road.
However, they are as inevitable as anything else in life. A good, durable 28mm tire is nice compromise between super-skinny "racing" ...
6
The NuVinci system is fantastic in principle and one day all bikes might come with it, but we aren't there yet. As the system stands there are a few matters that might not make it the answer to your prayers of an easier time going up hills:
For hilly terrain you need gears - it goes without saying. The steeper the hills the bigger range of gears - going up ...
6
I wear a business suit everyday to work. I use a light weight garment bag and hangers. I hang the pants and shirt on one hanger and the suit jacket on a separate hanger.
Once the garment bag is zipped up, I roll it around my shoes from the bottom up. It fits right in my saddle bag. When i get work not one wrinkle. You can't leave it rolled up to long ...
5
Although it's mostly geared towards chopping up existing (steel) frames and converting the resultant bits into either recumbents, trikes, quads, electric bikes or choppers, there's a fair bit of generally useful info at the Atomic Zombie site and in their forums.
The same couple who run the Atomic Zombie site also have a couple of bike building books out:
...
5
...just speaking up for the Local Bike Shop - if you are moving to Redmond permanently then it may make sense to have a bike with a warranty and the support of the LBS for when/if it goes wrong.
Also consider the mudguards situation - I know they are unfashionable but they are handy for the commute. Since Specialized bikes are designed for sunny California ...
5
I think the tires would be durable enough (my winter commute in nearby Kitchener, ON is about 20 km/day and my Marathon winters hold up pretty well) but they're definitely going to feel more sluggish than a road tire.
If you're normally running them with enough air pressure to keep the studs clear of the pavement, I think that kind of defeats the purpose of ...
5
Your bike will most probably be fine - there's nothing inherently different to riding 50-100k as opposed to 30k, assuming all the components are in good condition (which since you've had it serviced, should be true). Obviously check the brakes, oil the chain, and check the tyres (nothing lodged in them, pumped up to the right pressure) before heading out. ...
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