Hot answers tagged crankset
17
The idea used to be that a triple was just a double with an extra small, 'granny' ring (i.e. only grandmothers would need to use that one) so there was definitely some snobbery in a triple; that it was designed for those who needed a little more help. So on the club training run, you might be teased for it. (Google for 'triple granny ring' for various forum ...
13
I doubt that you actually managed to screw your pedals into the wrong sides. If it can even be done, the amount of force required to do so would have easily alerted you that you were doing something dreadfully wrong. Not to mention the aluminum shavings that would have been all over the place.
Pedals can get pretty snug just through the action of peddling ...
11
As the others have stated, there's nothing wrong with any various drive train types (triple, double, 1x, single, etc). Compact drivetrains and triples are becoming more common because they provide an easier set of options for casual riding. A traditional double for a road bike may be more than most people want for casual riding. For example, if you take a ...
10
Obviously, the simpler the better, and a triple is a little, er, "crankier" to maintain and use than a double. But on most bikes it will mean that you have both a slightly larger large gear and a significantly smaller small gear, in addition to having closer "jumps" between gears. Exactly how this all will work out depends on the manufacturer's choice of ...
10
While pro riders often change gearing or whole bikes depending on the nature of the race or the stage, you do sometimes see compact cranksets, particularly among domestiques in mountain stages or races.
A big-name example is Tyler Hamilton in the 2003 Tour De France. After crashing and breaking his collarbone before the huge mountain stages he was unable ...
10
I don't like to be the bearer of bad news, but I've been down this road once or twice. As a hobby, I sometimes pull bike frames out of dumpsters and rebuild them to sell for my cost on Craigslist. I have learned over the years that bicycles, when new, really cost at least $300-400. "Bicycle-Shaped Objects" (BSO's) are sold at stores like Wal-Dart and ...
10
There are bicycles with a crankshaft that runs through the rear axle. The "Tur Meccanica Bi Bici" is such a bicycle:
I can't tell from your picture if it's the same bike or not, but it certainly could be.
8
Ultimately it's a trade-off between a wider range of gears and bigger jumps between those gears. There will always be uphills that are too steep for your lowest gear and downhills where you spin out. If you try to fix both problems with a wider range cassette (your triple already has a great range) you may find that you're never quite in the "right" gear ...
7
This is a common setup for many freeride bikes, as it allows uphill peddling and a bash guard. However only certain models of chain guide support this, and the one your son has doesn't officially (though it wouldn't hurt to try if you have crankset to test, might affect derailleur...). The DRS is eThirteen's 'official' dually chain guide.
7
You're right, you want to space it between the shell and cup. You can put spacers on either side to get the chainline right. Most cranksets come with spacers (2.5 mm is probably the most useful size for you) but if yours didn't any LBS should have a few to sell you. Something like this: http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket-spacer.html (I don't know if ...
6
Papuass is correct - take it back to the shop as it is under warranty and they may have offered you a free service anyway.
Here is the complete checklist for future reference...
I believe that you have a Shimano Altus chainset - a pressed steel number with no chainring bolts to come undone.
As for diagnosis, you are not getting the click when you are ...
5
In the 2010 Giro, on the Plan de Corones, Vinokourov rode an 11-32 cassette to 8th place (with compact (34) up front). Gadret rode the same setup to place 3rd on the stage.
http://www.theroaddiaries.com/?p=2726
Contador used a compact and a large, I think 30-something rear cog, on l'Angliru in the 2009 Vuelta a Espana. Compacts are definitely used by ...
5
The positive of a triple crank is a greater range of gears. A triple crank will give you a lower low gear which may be useful for climbing steep hills.
The negative of a triple crank is weight. You have an extra large gear which will likely weigh around 8 or 10 ounces. Since those ounces are on a part of the bike that rotates, they matter.
So if you ...
5
Sram apex is a double chainring crankset which uses a GXP (aka Giga-X-Pipe) bottom bracket which is an external bearing bottom bracket.
I think External Bearing or Outboard bottom bracket are both commonly accepted terms, however there are several different incompatible types of external bottom brackets such as hollowtech, GXP, and Ultra Tourque.
5
There aren't many options out there for cranks shorter than 165mm. Your best bet is to buy a set of longer crankarms and get them shortened at a service like Bikesmith Design.
Also, if you are legitimately having knee problems, I'd suggest that you find a professional fit service in your area and have a fitting done. The length of your cranks may not be the ...
5
The crank you point to would probably fit on your bottom bracket, but might result in a bad chainline.
There are two things to consider when replacing your cranks: the interface between the cranks and the bottom bracket, and the distance from the centerline.
Your old Suntour cranks and the Shimano you link to both use a JIS square taper. So the interface ...
5
By "non-drive" I assume you mean the left side. This is more apt to come loose than the right because of "precession" -- most crank bolts are right-hand thread on both sides, but the motion of the crank arm relative to the shaft tends to loosen the bolt on the left side, whereas it tends to tighten the bolt on the right side.
But if this is occurring it's ...
4
The crank removal tool has two threaded pieces. The larger threads into the crank (after you've removed the crank-bolt with a wrench). Tighten it all the way down, as these threads will take all of the force that is required to remove the crank. The smaller threaded piece screws into the larger. It has a flat end on it which goes into the crank. Turn ...
4
You would have to change to a new crankset*, I would recommend a road triple for this (52/42/30), and acquire a road triple front derailleur that was suitable for a flat bar shifter.
Shimano makes the 2200 crankset which is quite affordable and will (I believe ... chainline might come into effect here) not necessitate a new bottom bracket. In my experience ...
4
According to the Shimano Tech Doc it looks like 48 teeth is the maximum recommended size and 48/38/28 is the recommended chain ring combination.
The spec sheet also indicates that the maximum jump between rings is 10 teeth, so even if you could fit a bigger ring, you would have to replace the other two as well.
I believe the Kaitai normally comes with a ...
4
The main intercompatibility issues with cranksets are the connection between the crank arms and the bottom bracket spindle.
Most bikes from that age (not to say all mountainbikes) use square taper bottom bracket, for which is very easy to find good quality cranksets.
These look like the leftmost spindle in the picture above (which also show newer types, ...
4
Both of the cranksets you mention are square taper. That's pretty standard and you shouldn't need to change the bottom backet.
To actually do the change you'll need a crank puller and a large hex/allen key (often around 8mm). It can be quite tough to pull the old ones off, even with the right tools. Don't even try and hammer them off, you'll just mash ...
4
If you replace the crankset you almost certainly get new front sprockets. Compared to the cost of the crankset and sprockets a new chain is chicken feed, so get a new chain.
Whether you need to replace the rear cassette is a whole 'nother question, pretty much independent from the front. If the cassette is badly worn it may cause your chain to wear ...
3
Traditionally, pure road bikes don't have a triple crank. It's a cultural thing, like admitting you're not strong enough. There's something macho about it, I think.
That, and weight. When you pay an extra thousand $ so that the bike be a bit lighter, you're not going to want to add unnecessary weight.
But then again, it all depends on the geography where ...
3
I thought the question was, will a single-speed chain tensioner (the kind that allows you to get chain tension right on a single-speed bike with vertical dropouts) provide enough variability in chain length that I can shift a front derailleur. The answer is probably not. The chain will either be too loose in the lower gear or too tight in the higher gear. ...
3
Nobody has mentioned the best thing about a triple. Ease of shifting. I have a double now and the problem with shifting is you always seem to be in the wrong gear. With a triple if you're at 20 mph or more your in the big ring. If your 10 mph or less your in the little ring. All the rest of the time (Which is 70%+) you're in the middle. With a double ...
3
It certainly sounds like you should look at going to a wider range of gears.
Your triple on the front already seems like a pretty wide range, and unlikely to easily get a wider range up there, so I'm thinking you'd mostly be looking at a wider range on the cassette.
The downside of widening your gear range will (generally) be that you'd get less fine ...
3
The bikes themselves - in this case, the frame - are pretty much standard on all the modern mountain bikes.
The Hollowtech and Octalink systems are different because you need to match the crankset to the bottom bracket, that is, you cannot use the BB from one system with the crankset from other system.
But any of the bottom brackets can be installed in the ...
3
Usually one only needs to remove the left cup to service the bottom bracket. With Fench/Italian BBs the right cup is usually so tight it's not worth even trying (I personally attempted two times but never succeded EDIT. I also managed to damage a Park Tool BB remover, worth 15 quids...)
The left cup is always right threaded, in any case the lockring must ...
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