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2

If you have correctly tightened the crank bolt then this normal. The recommended torque spec is 305-390 in lbs. If the crank axle came all the way to the end you would run the risk of the bolt bottoming out before the crank was seated.


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Crank preload is there to ensure that cranks are not over tightened so that they cause premature failure of the bearings. It allows the cranks to be "finger tightened" prior to the pinch bolts been done up to the right torque. It's a way of ensuring the spacing is correct on the crank axle.


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My guess is: since 50/34 and 11/32 works well, because it is commonly used, so should 52/36 and 11/32. Same tooth difference (16) between the front chainrings. Same total capacity (read further). Take a look at this technical document For Item 11 (inner chainring), it says Chainring 36T-MB for 46-36T/52-36T For Item 12 (outer chainring), it says Chainring ...


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There are a few things to keep in mind. Will the current front derailleur work with the new chainring sizes? If you have enough adjustment range in the position of the front derailleur, this can almost always work with a double chainring. However, it may require some grinding of the cage on the front derailleur. The outer edge of the cage needs to ...


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This is a big question. Clicks and creaks can be related to a good many things, sometimes the crankset and / or the BB, sometimes not. Do the simple stuff first. Check: The cassette lockring is properly tight - it does need to be at the correct torque, usually marked on the lockring iteself, typically 40 nm. If it's a Campag wheel, that the end pieces ...


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If you're replacing the whole crankset and BB, then any 9-speed double crankset should work. The chain width for 9-speed systems is the same for all makes (not the case for 10 or 11 speed). But before you do that, I'd look around and see if you can replace just the left arm. Any crank designed for the Shimano "outboard bearing" BB should work (those are ...


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You may well get a bargain like @Klaster_1 mentions in your comments. If you did want to buy a new crank set that behaves exactly the same, you could get anything that matches the same specifications: Bolt Circle Diameter, the teeth count (in your case 34/50 if you're replacing that sora one) ensure that its got the right shape hole for the bottom ...


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In the past I have experienced a similar 'clicky' / 'creaky' sound when pushing for more torque on the pedals. I didn't have a campagnolo bottom bracket / chainset but I do have a square spindle bb. For me I needed to tighten two things: Tighten the crank onto the bottom bracket spindle. Sometimes the crank can become loose, especially if recently fitted. ...


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Most bikes come flat shipped from the manufacturer. A good bike shop will do the following: Check/adjust the wheels/hubs and then install them. Install and lubricate/paste the seatpost. Install the handlebars. Check/Adjust the headset. Check and adjust the drivetrain. Install pedals (if the bike came with them, many high end bikes do not). Install the ...


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This is determined by your LBS, the relationship you have with them and the bike your buying. Generally bikes come in flat pack boxes and, with the exception of top end bikes, are partially assembled out of the factory. The reseller needs to attach the handle bar and do a safety check. If you want to change parts out you'll have to pay workshop rates. ...



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