New answers tagged

1

It looks like to me you are using SPD pedals? I've had issue with the plates/springs that engage the cleat making a creaking noise. A quick cleaning with chain oil and applying grease fixes that, repeat annually. Also, if you are having a lot of creaking at the bottom bracket bearing... that needs to be fixed quickly as a failed BB can destroy your frame.


1

If spraying a light oil onto the crankshaft temporarily relieves the problem, that suggests that it's the bottom bracket (a really poor name given to the crank bearings and shaft assembly to which the pedal cranks attach). The shaft, by the way, is also called a "spindle". The oil seeps along the spindle into the bottom bracket, and provides some temporary ...


1

Yes, there is a better way. Use a bicycle specific lubricant. You can find them at any bike shop, or in the bicycle section of big box stores. As others have pointed out, WD-40 is not a good lubricant for bicycles. If lubing the chain doesn't help, you might need to do some further investigation to find out where the squeaking is coming from.


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Sounds like your crank bearing. I had the same problem. It would only do it while I was riding. Drove me crazy. If it happens every crank rotation, this could be culprit


-2

I had the same problem for daysss , now i took the bolt out of my crank which connects it with the spindle and used some copper grease on it and it was finally gone


1

Chainline is important, more so for modern 10+ speed systems. A six speed system is more forgiving of misalignment than one would guess. Since both BB are square taper all you need to do is remove it and see what the size is on the BB itself. The shaft will only allow a crank on so far (that's why its taper). By buying the size currently in the bike you ...


0

I had a similar noise coming from what I thought was the cranks or the chainset. After taking it all apart, re-greasing it all and also replacing the bottom bracket the noise persisted to my frustration. It turns out that although tight enough to hold the wheel in place, the rear quick release was not tight enough. Hey presto, once I tightened the QR the ...


1

The problem going x1 from x2 is the chain line can end up being wrong. Its easier with an x3, you just use the middle position and can often get away with using the standard chain ring. With a 2x conversion you use spacers to get the chain ring into the correct position Refer Here, which usually required longer chain ring bolts than standard on a 2x. The ...


0

That last photo shows the chain on a smaller chainring. Notice the air-gap under the chain? That is a clear sign that the chainring is worn and the "effective" gap between teeth is now larger. So instead of the load being shouldered by multiple teeth, one single tooth carries the load for an instant, accelerating wear of the chain and the tooth. You're ...


1

I thought I would post an answer to my own question as I finally heard back from Madsen. (They were very nice--especially since i bought the bike used). I figure that if anyone else is looking for the information, it will be handy to have it here. They confirmed that a front derailleur can easily be added, and that if I want a triple up front I would ...


2

If the chain rings are badly worn, its almost certain the cassette (rear cogs) and chain need replacing. do not change the chain rings on their own. The chain rings on most cranks can be replaced. Some cheaper ones (mostly kids bikes) use rivets, and you need to replace the whole crank set. If possible, the easiest thing to do is replace chain rings with ...


3

I was able to get the collet off with some gentle tapping from a screwdriver and a hammer. The collet is a soft metal, my screwdriver definitely made a mess of the metal. If someone in the future has the same problem, use some sort of hard plastic to buffer the hits. I did try to bash it out by reassembling everything and applying wood + hammer to the ...


1

If your crank arms are in good shape, you could just get the chainring(s) and not the whole crankset. You "should" also get chain and cassette as the rear cassette could be more worn than you can see and the chain will not run smoothly and could jump around on you.


1

From what can tell from the photos it looks like the inner race is seized to the crank axle. When you removed the non drive side bearing did the ball bearings fall out? You can try to carefully cut the race off with a Dremel with a cut off wheel. You must be very careful not to go too deep and hit the crank axle. I would cut 9/10th of the way through. Then ...


3

I would try reinstalling the drive side and non drive side cups to the frame (to keep the spindle centered). Then I would recommend a game of whack-a-mole on the spindle with a rubber mallet. I have often had to remove a crankset this way. A rubber mallet should be in pretty much any home mechanics tool kit. The rubber mallet has almost no chance of ...


1

The datasheet for the crankset says it calls for a 123 mm spindle length. This would mean that your crankset would sit about a half centimeter further out than the existing one if you use the Shimano recommended bottom bracket, which will affect the chainline. I'd go for trying it out as is -- it will probably work. If the shifting is fine, and the chain ...



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