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0

Your bike uses a "high direct mount" front derailleur - so yes, you can upgrade to an X0, as long as it's a high direct mount model. SRAM and Shimano both sell "non-group" transmission and braking components, usually only to OEM customers (i.e. the bike manufacturers). This means they aren't in a "group" (e.g. X7, X9, XX1, Deore, SLX, XT, etc) but allow ...


0

If you look closely at the zoomed photo on Specialized's site, you can see that the label on the "custom" front derailleur says only "SRAM" and "2x10". The regular ones made by SRAM say "X0" or other model names on them, e.g. here: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-x0-2x10-high-direct-mount-front-derailleur-srm0437 It appears that the style of mount ...


3

Back: All the SRAM rear derailleurs which have "exact actuation" (1:1 actuation ratio) should work. This includes the X5 and X7. You can run a "mountain" or "road" cassette, its pretty much just marketing that differentiates them provided the derailleur has enough capacity to use it. Front: On the other hand, in the front, the cable pulls are different, so ...


2

Clean and dry (hair-dryer) the derailleur. Relube. Check. If necessary take out the cables, chase the water from the housings by pressing thin oil with a syringe. Put the cables back in or replace with new ones. It's always a good idea to change the cables before winter if you've been riding through rain in the good season. And change them again at the ...


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I'd try replacing your cables and housing and running full housing (if possible). Most fat / winter bikes are designed for full housing for this reason. Doing the switch now will assure you are starting with a fresh slate. Additionally, you may try switching to a wax / dry lube for the cold season and clean the old lube off your drivetrain. If you have ...


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As previously stated - the mileage you have done - should not affect the gear change. Your drive-train is still very young. Check the cabling - in particular the gear cabling entering the lever. The newer 105 (5700 onwards) use under bar tape cabling. In some cases - I have seen the inner gear cabling can end up being pulled through the gear ferrule cap. ...


1

The difference in chain width between 9s and 10s is less than 1mm so it won't make much of a difference once the mech is adjusted correctly. I have M660 on my bike and M665 on brother's bike and they aren't so much different, so if 10s is proven to work on one, it should work on the other. Front shifters have the same cable pull, but front derailleurs have ...


0

Apart from more obvious issues like mal adjusted front derrailleur where the chain would rub against it at certain positions (this should not occur when you are using the middle rear cog).... I once encountered a sandy gritty feel on the pedals on a bike with new but very cheap cassette and chain. after ascertaining it was not pedals (rotated the pedals ...


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You should not have any problem with regards to your rear derraileur. it will work with a wide variety of shifters. I've mixed many derraileurs within the Shimano brand across various product generations (usually from 7 speed to 10 speed). My limitation would be I've not used 11 speed equipment. There are some exceptions. For example the Shimano AX series ...


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I've rebuilt my Campy Ergo Power brifters and understand how they work internally, but you don't say what kind of shifters you have so I can only speculate. There's probably some kind of mechanical coupling between the lever that you push on with your finger and the piece that the cable is actually threaded through. This coupling is probably worn out or ...


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I've had this problem before (recently), and it was solved with a thorough cleaning and then re-oiling of the derailleur.


2

I had bike with RX100 components where the grease in the brifters dried up and they would not catch as you have described. Its possible the grease in yous is soft enough at warmer temperatures for them to work, but once it cools down, it thickens. There is an earlier post here on how to address it.



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