New answers tagged derailleur
I've done this. You need to fit a small nut on the end of the longer B screw because the change in angle means the screw misses the frame. the nut essentially widens the screw.
10 speed works with 10 speed. You will be fine with the chain you have. The major difference being that the one that is made for 3x10 will be a couple links longer generally. Usually this is designated by a number such as 116L where the L stands for links. Width wise you should be fine with any 10 speed chain. 10sp chains are slightly more narrow than a 9sp ...
Here's a photo of RD-M970 from behind. As you can see, the slotted (guide) pulley goes to knuckle and solid one (tension) to the bottom of cage. I'd align the arrows with chain movement direction that happens when you pedal forward.
The first thing to check is that your rear wheel can take a 10 speed cassette. If this is the case, then you can move to step two, which is picking compatible rear derailleurs and shifters. A 10 speed Shimano road shifter needs a 7-9 speed mountain/road rear derailleur or a 10 speed road derailleur. A 10 speed Shimano mountain shifter needs a 10 speed ...
yes it will work. I tested it already. 6/7/8 speed chains are all the same width. so meaning. the cassette's width is the same too.
There are three main steps to adjust both derailleurs. The first is usually not necessary unless the rear is very far out of adjustment. Adjust the rear derailleur enough that it will stay in the lowest and highest gears, even if you have to help it a little with finger pressure on the derailleur arm. This may require adjusting the high and low limit ...
It does not matter. The derailleurs are located on opposite sides of the cogs, so the the relative location of derailleur and chain depends only on shifter position, derailleur adjustment and which cogs the chain is on. The derailleur on opposite side can not change chain position, except by moving the chain to different cog. It is far easier to adjust the ...
If the derailers just need minor tweaking (they are basically in adjustment but are "not quite right") then you adjust the one that is obviously wrong, check the overall adjustment again, then again adjust what needs adjusting. Often only one derailer needs adjusting and often the adjustment is just a half-turn of the barrel adjuster. If they are ...
Start with the rear derailleur, then work your way up to the front. For a tutorial search for GCN on Youtube. They have a pretty good series of videos about this topic.
I learned that the rear should be adjusted completely first. The front is notoriously difficult to get just right.
Answer: "Yes" Every part of the system affects every other part of the system. So you could spend ages making the rear perfect, then go and tweak the front which puts the rear out again. Like truing wheels, back and forth is your best answer to focus down on the best position for both. Don't forget to clean everything before you do adjustments. ...
I just cracked a hanger and blew apart the spring in a SRAM Red deraileur (which is why I searched this post). I was looking for a frame slider similar to what we have for motorcycles. I am thinking about a deep plastic cap that can surround and be anchored by the skewer nut yet extends past the deraileur. Think of a BMX footpeg (shorter) but as soft as a ...
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