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I can say from experience this does not work well at all. Although as mentioned above the chain does run through the shifting is dreadful. I tried it with a 10 speed shifter but gears would always have a spot where they would jump. Just get a 10 speed rear derailleur. You will be glad you did.


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Will it work? Probably. The range of movement of the mech wont be an issue and the chain will run through it, so I cant see why it wouldnt work. This article is quite helpful: http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-10-11-speed-drivetrain-component-compatibility_362722 Shimano will tell you 11spd components wont ...


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Once possibility is a rusty cable/housing. When the cable or cable housing gets rusty it can be the case that the spring of the derailleur can't provide enough force to overcome the friction of the cable moving through the housing. You can test this by disconnecting the cable from the derailleur and seeing if it is difficult it is to pull the cable ...


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It is not uncommon for new bike or older bikes with new cable to require a retune after a few rides. The cause is cable stretch. With use the cable stretches slightly. If you purchased your bike from a local shop it likely included a free adjustment and fastener check after 30 days of use. You can also search for tutorials on line dealing with derailleur ...


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There is also a spec for the maximum size of a rear cog. The 5800SS allows a 23 to 28 tooth largest cog, so you are OK. The GS allows a range of 28 to 32 teeth for the largest cog. I would suggest you decide based on which direction you are more likely to want to change-if you go to an 11/32 cassette you need the GS, while if you go to tighter gearing you ...


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I just installed a FORCE 22 50/34 crankset on my old SRAM Force 10 spd equipped bike. Used to have SRAM Rival Crankset. I can not see any indications on why this would not work. I'm a mechanical engineer as a profession as well.. SRAM says the PC1051 chain is not compatible with Force22 chainrings, but it works fine so far. I think SRAM in this case tries ...


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The front derailleur doesn't care what the rear derailleur is and vice versa. The front derailleur is matched with the front chainring sizes, number of chainrings, mounting type of the front derailleur (a property of the frame) and the front shifter. The rear derailleur is matched to the shifter (for indexing; the shifter is matched to the cassette), and ...


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It may be that the there is either grit in the derailleur, a burr in the metal, or maybe the spring has been over stretched. If it is the last it may be from a time when something was pressing on the mech that stretched the spring out too far. It wouldn't mean that the spring wouldn't pull all the way back to its normal position, but it may not have the ...


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Detach the cable at the derailleur and see where the derailleur sits. If its not in line with the lowest cog you need to adjust the lower limit screw. This is usually marked with an L. Screw it out until the top jockey wheel of the derialleur is precisely in line with the smallest cog. Reattach the cable with shifter on gear 1. Then click up one gear. Adjust ...



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