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0

assuming your brakes are clean, well maintained, aligned, right and tight; sounds like you need to get the brakes HOT to help them bed in. Find the steepest tarmac deserted road that you know. Going at about 5-10 MPH, do an emergency stop on one brake only. On no account lock the wheels and have overriding regard for staying under control. Do this a few ...


0

I use my bicycle for street freestyle stunting.. and from my experience, larger rotors provide better control vs. more stopping power. I use my front brake to do stoppies (a stunt where the front brake is applied to tip the bike onto the front wheel and continue rolling). When I upgraded to a 203mm rotor, I noticed that it required less lever movement to ...


2

I would try repairing them before binning them and purchasing the Shimano upgrade. If there is no obvious fluid leak around the piston the seals are likely in good order and you've got a sticky piston rather than a failed calliper. This is a simple fix: Remove wheel and brake pads. Using a flat headed item hold the working piston in. Squeeze the lever, the ...


-1

If you do shortish rides 20-40 mins grab a spray bottle and spray the brake rotors very lightly tho. It should stop for that period of time if it doesn't stop then it means your brakes are contaminated.


9

An unaligned caliper (the unit that sits over the disc) is far more likely than a bent rotor. It's more exposed and susceptible to being knocked. You should first try to realign your disc brake caliper as this will quickly show if it is a rotor straightness or caliper alignment issue. This is a simple job and will only require the correct sized hex wrench. ...


4

If it's just a very short "zing" once every revolution, there's nothing to worry about -- it's pretty normal at least for downhill-oriented bikes to have their discs slightly out of true and bending them back will probably do more damage than good. Otherwise, you should either take the bike to your LBS to get the disc trued or get a truing tool and do it ...



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