New answers tagged drivetrain
Since the guard is "beat up" it seems to have been doing it's job. So the derailleur is, or was, out of adjustment. Making sure the derailleur is properly adjusted is the first thing to do. The next thing is to ride the bike for some weeks to see if it stays adjusted. If the derailleur stays adjusted then you could remove the spoke guard rather than ...
This is called the spoke guard and prevents the chain from getting tangled in the spokes if the rear derailleur is improperly adjusted. Properly adjust your rear derailleur and you will have no need for the spoke guard and can throw it away.
Easy but you need a special tool for extracting the gears, and there is not a standard one, brands have different, it is a job for a bike shop, I'm afraid, but should be inexpensive
Even though you mentioned in a comment that the high and low seemed to be adjusted properly, it still sounds to me like the 'L' limit of the rear derailleur is improperly set and does not allow the upper guide pulley to fully move the chain onto your largest cog. If this is indeed the case, shift into the largest cog and adjust the 'L' limit screw (the ...
If you've already checked the lower limit screw of the derailleur, and also checked for a bent derailleur hanger, another thing to consider is cable friction. To get to the smallest cog, the derailleur spring has to move the derailleur all the way to the outside. While it's doing that, the spring is pulling the shifter cable out of its housing. If there is ...
Assuming your derailleur isn't bent, you need to adjust the derailleur. If the derailleur is bent, you will need to unbend it. Your shifters may not be catching the last gear as well, but you'd probably feel that when you tried to shift it up. The frame has nothing to do with it.
I own & ride an XDS COM10 2014 bike. This is fitted with a Sussex (Taiwan) shaft drive transmission & Shimano Nexus 8 speed hub gear. I have used it regularly for over a year & travelled about 4000km on it without any issues . It works perfectly, smooth & quiet.I thought it was very reasonably priced at about AUD700 brand new on-line. It is ...
You'll need to change the chainwheels and the cranks, the rear derailleur, the brake-shift levers, the cassette and the chain of course. The rear wheel probably has an older hub but then if you're lucky and the hub is designed for 10-speed as well it will also take 11. The brakes won't need changing but then the newer ones are designed for less friction in ...
This page has the best answer I've found so far http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/ Reading between the lines, the cable pulls from 9spd to 11spd are probably close enough, but the derailleur ratios are significantly different. 1.4 vs 1.7. This means that the 11 spd indexing in your new ...
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