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I ran into this exact problem. In my case, it was buying 9-speed chain for an 8-speed drivetrain— I didn't realize backward compatibility was an issue.


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Check and see if your cranks can move side-to-side. You might need to loosen the left crankark, push it on all the way and re-tighten.


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Good answers above. Most likely a worn sprocket, but could also be that your B-tension on the rear deraileur is insufficient, causing the chain to not wrap as far around the cassette cogs as it should, which would make the problem worse. Increasing B-tension will cause the deraileur's guide pulley to come closer to the cassette, thereby engaging more chain ...


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Pedaling while stand up is not something you should or should not do. It is harder for your body because it increases heart rate, but gives you instant power and is even necessary for some obstacles of technical climbs on MTB. Sometimes you need to go over that rock, sometimes you don't have the time to shift and just want to accelerate right away. Every ...


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Back in the seventies and eighties it wasn't uncommon to remove the inner chainring from bikes used on flat time trials to save weight. Often the chain length was set intentionally on the long side to reduce friction, which had the undesirable side effect of making it easier to rop the chain. At the same time it was generally considered to be a good idea ...


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I have a built myself a single chainring bike and I'm just having this problem. Bike ran fine for the first month now the chain jumps off the chainring when on the smaller sprockets. I had a dodgy link in the chain which was giving too much flex so I replaced that and it seems to run better so chain your chain but the problem is still there. In response to ...


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Since the guard is "beat up" it seems to have been doing it's job. So the derailleur is, or was, out of adjustment. Making sure the derailleur is properly adjusted is the first thing to do. The next thing is to ride the bike for some weeks to see if it stays adjusted. If the derailleur stays adjusted then you could remove the spoke guard rather than ...


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This is called the spoke guard and prevents the chain from getting tangled in the spokes if the rear derailleur is improperly adjusted. Properly adjust your rear derailleur and you will have no need for the spoke guard and can throw it away.


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Easy but you need a special tool for extracting the gears, and there is not a standard one, brands have different, it is a job for a bike shop, I'm afraid, but should be inexpensive



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