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It's used for attaching a child seat similar to this one. The above site shows a clearer image of the part in question which might be useful to future visitors.


Move your weight further forward to keep the front wheel weighted. Shuffle forwards on your seat and bring your chest closer to the bars. Standing can help for the steepest parts, but can cause your rear wheel to slip on loose surfaces. The front wheel is lifting as when your bike is on a slope the wheelbase is effectively shortened, bringing your weight ...


From Sheldon Brown: Spoke Protector A plastic or sheet-metal disc that fits between the cluster and the right-side spokes of a rear wheel. This is intended to prevent the derailer or chain from getting caught in the spokes, possibly causing very extensive/expensive damage/destruction to the wheel, the derailer, and the frame. A spoke ...


Look at Downhill MTB gloves, they are meant for folks who are likely to crash in the brush and often have padding on fronts of fingers and knuckles and leather palm protection.


You can work on a pedal stroke that applies pressure for a larger portion of the rotation of the pedals. That will reduce the peak force that is causing the wheel to lift.


I would suggest that your bike is not set up correctly and your centre of gravity is too far back. The first thing to consider is what is the predominant terrain you are riding? If its mostly flat consider using a technique such as alex has suggested in his answer to cover pinch climbs and small hills. If your doing a lot of climbing (sitting on the ...


Its a spoke guard. It prevents the chain from going between the spokes and cassette causing damage if you shift too far. This can only happen on badly tuned gears or old friction shifted shifters.


Looks like it might be a mount for a kid's bike seat.


I use mechanics gloves purchased at the hardware store. Mine are unpadded leather (goatskin) and have saved my hands from several crashes that otherwise would have caused nasty abrasions, judging by the damage to the gloves. "Mechanix" and "Grease Monkey" brand gloves are usually what I see on the hands of local mountain bikers.


Recently in my country the only DH gloves that the shops are selling are made of skinny fabric with no padding, so I've turned my head towards motorcycling gear. I have had a two types of gloves by a motorcycling accessory maker. They tend to be sturdier, but also a bit heavier. I don't complain about weight, just acknowledge it. They are so rugged that ...


If you are planning for a loaded tour, lightweight equipment is the opposite of what you want— the bike is a relatively small proportion of the total weight of bike + gear. Strong wheels are one of the most important components, since failures are difficult to repair and have potential to end the trip— overbuilt wheels with a high spoke count for ...


My first priority is reliability, the second is comfort. I spend 3-5 hours a day in the saddle, day after day. Light components are not a priority, I get reliable ones. Wheels: Ryde/Rigida Andra are very strong ones. Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon puncture proof Saddle: Brooks are good, or SQ Lab - comfort is very important, try before you go Handlebars: Ergon ...

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