Hot answers tagged

14

Don't forget lights. Many people who only ride during the day/nice weather don't bother to put lights on your bike. But in heavy rain, it's sometimes darker (especially closer to sunrise/sunset), and visibility is reduced. Having lights and also reflectors will help you to be seen and improve your safety. If you don't mind getting wet, and use a waterproof ...


14

Adding mud-flaps to both fenders will greatly reduce spraying water on to your bottom bracket, feet and bicyclists riding behind you. Mud-flaps can be made easily & cheaply by cutting a part of plastic bottles for milk /water/soda-pop and screwing them on to end of mud-guard/fenders (ensure there is enough clearance between screw and tire). Plastic ...


13

First, if you're using a conventional cantilever brake (i.e. with a yoke, not a link wire), you need a fender or reflector or something to avoid the yoke catching on the tire. As usual, Sheldon is excellent. There are several types of fenders: Downtube mudguards: Seatpost fenders: Both of these options sit away from the wheel, clipped on. They can't ...


10

For riding in the rain, I would definitely recommend putting fenders on your bike that cover as much of the wheel as possible. This will help prevent "skunk stripes" on the back of your clothes due to dirt thrown up by the rear wheel. Fenders also generally help keep water from flying all around during riding, which keeps other things from getting as wet to ...


8

Mudguards (typically called fenders in the US) are a great feature and come in many varieties. The fenders you have are full-coverage fenders and are likely aluminum. Metal fenders are still quite common (and in my opinion, fenders are an essential addition to any bike if you live where it rains. Velo Orange manufactures many sizes and styles that are ...


8

Do not do that. That's dangerous because those stays are often made of soft steel and it's easy to bend or damage them, which means they'll pull out from under the bolt head. In that case you end up with a loose bolt on your brake caliper. Which is bad. Two alternatives spring to mind: fenders that mount directly to the fork via clips or bands (or hose ...


7

I have a pair of SKS Race Blades (e.g. from Wiggle). They clip on and off really easily, for washing, security or just for the long days of summer when rain is decidedly unlikely. They are reasonably small and should fit all but the tightest of clearances. For all the reasons you mention, I use them - cleanliness of my legs, back, bag and chain - but also ...


7

I have a very similar setup (SKS Chromoplastics), and can say the following: I installed a suspension forks and then the former length of the metal wires bacame too long for the setup. I BENT them in a sharp turn to run parallel to the mudguard (of course it can be bent in any suitable direction, just NOT point straight back like yours). Haven't had any ...


7

You could try something with slightly less coverage like the sks raceblades. However, the sks commuter fenders have less clearance in the back. It still might be too much though. Clip on fenders like the portland design work soda pop fenders may be an option for you as well, but they provide less coverage overall. Fenders are one of those things that are ...


6

I use rubber patches from used tubes. It not always look nice, but besides dampening the rattling itself, they also dampen the sound propagation along the fender (depending of course on the amount of rubber). EVA could also be a good alternative. Other think I sometimes have to make is to preload the metal plates which run from side to side along the ...


6

I think it's a problem that must be solved on a one-off basis, since there so many different fender/bike combinations. First make sure the connections are really tight. Often they work loose over time. Then try to observe what's rattling. Some heavy tape applied to points that tend to knock against the bike frame may help. Different fenders that are ...


6

I think the first step would be to work out what is causing them to fall out of alignment. Possibilities include: Vibration when riding causing fitting screws to loosen or parts to rotate Leaning your bike against something when parked Someone leaning their bike against yours or tampering with them In case 1, you can remove the screws and refit them with ...


6

Fenders don't fall into an "ok with racks" or "not ok with racks" category. Generally speaking, most traditional fender designs will work on bikes with racks attached. There may be certain combinations of fenders and racks that are problematic, but those are the exception. An example of a problem would be a bike whose rear rack is very close to the top of ...


6

I think of three kind of mud guards that fit the description: musguard, quickfix, and fender bender. An other solution is the ass saver, but this is not what you are looking for.


5

I believe the main accident risk is that something gets caught between fender and wheel and blocks the wheel. If this happens with the front wheel, a crash is quite likely. This can happen in two ways: Some foreign object (branch, clump of earth etc.) gets caught and blocks the wheel. Some foreign object gets caught and causes the fender itself to fold ...


5

Since the current answers skim over what I think is the key point I'm going to add a late answer. The risk is that the fender itself can jam a wheel. If a front wheel jams you're almost certainly going to crash, with a rear wheel you might crash. Good fenders will have a means for every stay to pull away from the bike relatively easily, so that if somehow ...


5

Probably fine I have a bike (Surly LHT) with 700c wheels, wide tires (35mm) and full fenders (I think same model, but next size up). The local buses have 2 or 3 different types of rack, and it works on all of them. On some of the 3-bike racks it's difficult to get the arm over the tire in the middle rack, but the fender isn't really a problem; usually I ...


5

I can't speak as a user of them, but I can as one who has followed them. They seem to work reasonably well, but they aren't as good at protecting people behind you - the arc behind them is narrower than the traditional curved in guard. I would think that in this regard, wider would seem to be better In this they are better than the horizontally flat guards ...


5

Use a seatpost-mounted rear mudguard, like the SKS X-tra Dry: For the front, you can also use a downtube mudguard like the SKS X-board: These are convenient for bikes which don't have proper fender mounts/fenders would interfere with clearance/fenders need to be easily removed or not [Most mountain bikes fit this thing]. They don't protect the ...


4

You mention that you do not like the extra cost of the SKS fenders, but I would say that I have had excellent luck with them lasting 3+ years with no issues at all. They are incredibly well made, and while not the cheapest on the market, they are not Honjos @ $100/pair either.


4

Try the Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. When you install them, use fender washers (they have the same inner diameter as regular washers, but the outer diameter is bigger) for more support. Space the fender so that it arcs over the wheel smoothly. Forcing it up to the brake bridge on the seat stays or the BB bridge will create a stress riser and crack the ...


4

I've had good luck with Planet Bike fenders. I've got these on my commuter, and they work nicely and don't rattle. When things do start to rattle, sometimes you can fix it with a few zip ties.


4

They come with bolts because QR's typcially don't clamp with enough force to keep the wheel from slipping forward. It looks like you have rear facing dropouts, so you should easily be able to use QR's if you get yourself a Surly Tuggnut. That little circle on the side of it is a QR adapter. You just pop it in and then slide your skewer all the way ...


4

3mm is definitely not enough, especially with plastic fenders! A good rule of them is your fenders should be at least 10mm wider than your tires. I run 42mm tires on one bike and it has 58mm fenders. On my other bike I run 32mm tires and 45mm fenders. You also want at least 12mm between the inside of the fender and the tire. Ideally, you should have 20mm ...


3

Most standards fenders will work with a rack. You do have bikes designed for both - you will have two bosses. You can double up and use the same boss for both but a separate is much preferred. If a bike will take a rack then it will (almost always) take fenders. But you can have a bike designed to take fenders but not a rack. People use fender mounts ...


3

I've had success with leather washers. They go between the mudguard and the screw-hole. The idea is to keep the mudguard from being able to pivot (and bang into stuff and make noise). FWIW, I run 35mm honjo fenders on 25mm conti tire.


3

Benzo already hit all the high points. IMO, it depends on the weather you get and the amount of coverage you need. I've had quite good luck with the seatpost clip on fender (SKS Xtra-Dry Rear Seatpost Fender). It can be adjusted up or down and moved out of the way if you need to hold the bike vertically. If that arrangement doesn't work for you (buy ...


3

Use a hacksaw or a dremel tool to zip out a notch in the tab like this: This will allow you to slide the fender onto the brake bolt and tighten everything down without losing vertical fender adjustability. If you wanted to add a bit of security, bend the very ends (maybe 2mm) of the tab in a vise so that it can't slide out (though, if your front brake has ...


3

At the risk of sounding snarky, I just want to add one thing to the otherwise excellent advice in the answers: motivation. Safety considerations aside, you don't really need any accessory to commute in bad weather. It is more a matter of how much discomfort you're willing to tolerate. "The gear" is not what is holding you back. Sure you can go all out and ...



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