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Assuming that the rim is thick enough still for safe braking, what I'd do is take the tire off the wheel and lightly sand/file the edges of the marks until they're level with the rest of the braking surface. I wouldn't sand/file until the marks are gone since that will likely give warbling and possibly remove too much of the surface. I'd recommend sanding in ...


2

Yes, you need to buy a freewheel. It's almost certainly a standard one so you can go into any LBS and grab whatever they have. The main thing to know is that it should screw on easily by hand. If it doesn't you've either not got the thread started properly, or the thread is the wrong size. Ideally put a tiny bit of grease on it so it'll come off more ...


3

They lock up Pretend just 1 pawl and just 1 tooth. Crank is fixed - left and right chainring spin at same rpm. Hub is fixed - left and right pawl spin at same rpm. The green part is attached to the hub that is attached to the wheel. The teeth are attacked to the cogs that are attached to the chain. Gearing 2:1 left (higher faster) assume 32 ...


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This is my mental experiment on this. The O.P. states he would install a bigger cog on the left, and a bigger chainring on the right, resulting on a higher (faster) gear ration on right side and a lower(slower) gear ratio on the left. Now, if the freewheel is installed normally (i.e. freewheeling on coast) then this happens: If the freewheel is on the ...



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