Hot answers tagged fork
11
Depends on the fork and the brake type used. With disc brakes, don't do it. A disc can generate enough force to pull a wheel. That's why most, if not all new mtb forks come with a bruly, deep recession for the QR and the droupouts face forward. With the caliper on the back of the leg, it wants to drive the hub downward when the brakes are on. If the ...
8
There are only a few measurements you need to be aware of when purchasing a new fork, particularly if you're avoiding suspension. If you don't need suspension, don't get it - it will only add cost and complexity, and a cheap suspension fork will be much worse than a rigid fork.
The basic measurements you need to be aware of are:
Headset type. Not truly ...
8
This is obviously (from the images) a suspension fork, and a very low-end one. Suspension forks are heavier than their rigid counterparts, but the trade-off is that they absorb shocks. These rust spots MUST MEAN the fork has long ago COMPLETELY LOST its ability to work properly as a suspension. As a result, you are carrying useless extra-weight, are not ...
8
I would get a fork with a steerer that fits the frame. The expense and risk of modifying your existing fork won't be worth it. There were some mountain bike forks with replacement steerer tubes but they didn't allow for changes of size or type of steerer. They were 1 1/8" threadless and so was the replacement. You also want to match the fork rake/angle that ...
7
I'm going to recommend that you NOT do this.
There were in the past manufacturers of 1" steerer suspension forks - though I'm not certain that they're are still sold. It is important to note that bicycle frames built to accept solid steel forks have different geometry than those built for suspension forks. The frame is designed for a fork that doesn't have ...
6
I don't think tire pressure should be set on how cushy you want your ride (unless you have no shocks).
Tire pressure pressure and tread selection should be done based on how much traction you need. The trade off is that with more traction, you get a higher rolling resistance and you need to exert more energy to cover the same ground. This is why road bike ...
6
The technical term is "threaded fork". That is, the steering tube has threads on top for the headset to screw onto. The newer design is called "threadless" - that's the one where the stem clamps onto the steering tube with pinch bolts.
You can switch from one to the other as long as the diameter of the steering tube is the same. (You'll obviously have to ...
6
This fork setting exists so that the fork can be customized to your weight (major reason) and riding style (minor reason). It's simply the initial compression of the internal spring in the fork. The more it's compressed, the stiffer the fork will feel.
Bigger preload compresses the spring more, and so it's best for heavier riders and/or people who ...
6
The real issue is in the top tube length. Basically, for shorter riders you need to move the handlebars closer to the seat. But then you have to deal with the wheel possibly colliding with the pedals ("toe strike"), changing the head angle or the fork's rake, which compromises the handling, and/or having a proportionally longer top tube than would ...
6
Throw that thing out and get a rigid fork. You don't need suspension unless you're riding off-road, or jumping over cars, or whatever it is the kids do these days. And bad suspension is worse than no suspension.
Rigid forks are pretty durable, so you may be able to find up a used one. Make sure that the crown-to-axle distance is similar to what you have ...
6
You can purchase suspension-corrected rigid forks which are designed to work with the geometry that suspended frames offer (Essentially the axle-crown measurement places the head tube where it needs to be. Pretty simple.) There are a few manufacturers out there, but my favorite is Surly (in terms of quality and in value. They offer several forks for 26"-29" ...
5
The overwhelming majority of modern road forks are designed for 10mm axles and 100mm-width hubs. (Since the hub width is the important measurement, it's the inside measurement between the dropouts which should concern you).
After you've ensured that the wheel sizes are the same (700c), the largest concerns are the axle-to-crown measurement; or very nearly ...
5
How much unusual stress are you talking about? The weight of the bike all on one leg of the fork? Or the weight of a really large person leaning back against the fork?
If it's just the weight of the bike leaning "wrong" on the fork, I wouldn't worry about it. That fork leg is built to handle a lot more stress than that in normal riding.
If it's worrying ...
5
First thing you should do is read the tech sheet on your fork. I believe the link below is the correct one.
http://www.cannondale.com/CMS/Technology/10_HeadShok_Tech_Pages_CUSA.pdf
There are also a bunch of manuals here but I didn't see one for the DLR Ti.
http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng/Instructions
As far as a rebuild goes it will be similar to ...
5
I would consider looking at a used later model bike.The improvements made in the last 18 years are worth the money.A decent fork can run hundreds of dollars not including installation. Check with your local bike shop for used bikes or craigs list if you keep it local so you can see before you buy.Bikepedia is a good reference to make sure you have an idea ...
4
It sounds like you've sorted out the first issue, headset size. You'll need something with a 1 1/8" (also seen as 1.125" or 9/8") steerer.
Your bicycle's handling is based on the geometry. Changing the axle-to-crown distance will change the angle of your head tube, altering your bicycle's handling significantly. The other major characteristic of a fork ...
4
Over time forks become less responsive (move slower basically), but as this effect happens over the course of 12-18 months (the usual fork oil and seal lifetime), it's difficult to notice as you just get used to it. So most fork manufacturers tell you to change it after so many miles.
This responsiveness loss happens for a couple of reasons on different ...
4
If by "steerer" you mean the top tube that turns in the bearings, it would be very bad for that to be bent, since it would seriously muck up the bearings, and ever getting it straight enough to NOT muck up the bearings would be unlikely.
Apart from the bearings, with something like a conventional steel fork the twin concerns are fractures in the steel and ...
4
One of the main problems with converting an old bike is the width of the headset. Old rigid mountain bikes[1] commonly have a 1" headset while modern suspension bikes have a 1 1/8" diameter headset. Suspension forks are mostly for 1 1/8" headsets so fitting suspension to an old rigid mountain bike is normally a non starter for that simple reason.
The ...
4
2 things:
While many older forks used replaceable steerer tubes, the steerer tube is still specifically shaped for that fork. Tubing will not do it. You need an oem replacement steerer tube. Nobody makes forks like that anymore, hence the lack of google results.
Also, that steerer tube in the photo looks to be steel, and should not be replaced with ...
4
The fork is "right" if it has the right "sag", that is, if it lowers a bit when you get on the bike. The right sag is no less than 10%, no more than 25% of total travel, for a regular bike (non-downhill, non-special-purpose);
Basically three "areas" must be addressed on maintenance:
Cleaning the inside, for removal of old oil/grease, water, mud, grime, ...
4
Yes - if you change to a 15mm or 20mm though axle, you will need a new hub to suit. Keep in mind that bike carries that you remove the front wheel and use the QR will be not be useable as well.
Apparently the benefits of the though axle out-weigh the disadvantages of incompatible parts etc. However I would think hard before "upgrading" away from QR and ...
4
Less fork offset on it's own means more trail. The fork length and wheel size will also affect this though, so you'd need to get all the numbers and maybe draw it out to work out the final difference in trail.
More (longer) trail makes the bike more stable (especially at speed) but less manoeuvrable. Touring and downhill bikes tend to have more trail, while ...
3
Most wholesalers carry generic 1 1/8" steerer forks with bosses for 'V' brakes and no suspension for 26" wheel. Your LBS will be able to get one in for you, pay £30 maximum for that in the UK and expect it in for you to collect in a week. (Most shops don't carry such items, just posh forks).
You will need to cut the fork down, this is simple enough and ...
3
I did that with my Kona Dew FS (now no longer FS). The fork didn't like winters, and the gaskets or something blew. I just had the guys at the local bike shop dig around and see if they could find a rigid fork that would fit. They did. It did. Works great. (Bow Cycle in Calgary is fracking awesome, by the way).
3
Very timely question.
A cold winter (we have lowest -28°C here) is a big test for any fork. The third winter I rode a bike, since my fork is not cheap, I decided to temporarily change it to a cheap rigid fork (it can even be used). Last winter my fork was freezing every ride so I can imagine how much the fork is experiencing every ...
3
For a carbon-fiber disc fork the difference is almost certainly purely aesthetic. Both curved and straight forks will be designed around equivalent rake values, so the direct handling and performance will be identical. The only other difference between curved and straight blades - mostly discussed in terms of standard steel forks - is a minimal amount of ...
3
From Sheldon Brown:
Grease lubrication is commonly used on all ball bearings. Good mechanics also use grease (or oil) on the threads of most threaded fittings and fasteners, and also inside the steerer (to keep the stem from becoming stuck) and the seat tube (to keep the seatpost from becoming stuck.)
There are a great many different greases on the ...
3
In addition to the visible rust on the stanchion tube (that's what those are called), the rust has most likely damaged the gaskets sealing off the lower tubes - the portion of the fork that the stanchion tubes slide into. Even if you got the rust off and got the stanchion tubes in a good-as-new condition (which is probably impossible) you'd still have to ...
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