New answers tagged fork
If you want to use a mountain bike on the road, you put on slick tires (this is all I'd recommend doing for bang for your buck). I wouldn't recommend changing out the wheel sets, since this is pricey and doesn't give you a ton of gains unless you're really at the top. A rigid fork would be a bit lighter, but you do need to match it to the type of fork ...
As others have said, you should lock it out when you want to put more power to the wheel. i.e. a flat road, moderately smooth trail. Being robbed of energy isn't as bad on a hard tail, but on a full sussy it is noticeable in various situations. I always lock out when climbing, especially if you stand while climbing. For descending I always have the fork ...
I have the 2013' it's awesome. The 2014 looks cheaper because of cheaper parts (1/2 tiagra) and wheels. Get the 2013. Anything less than 105 groupset doesn't do the frame justice. Get the 2013 Upgrade the tyres day 1 and the wheels down the track.
This is your stem. As you can see, it is the whole unit from the bars to the top of the fork, including the adjustable bit in the middle. Most dan't have this and I think this is where the confusion is coming from. To remove your bars for packing, it is usual to remove the 4 bolts on the face plate on the stem. That is the part immediately touching the ...
I solved by detaching the other side and spraying the inside with WD-40. Then, simply tightening the screw on the other side led to the previously stuck side being drawn inward. To detach my handlebar, I instead followed the suggestion in arnes comment.
Simply for your two points: For a front wheel you can buy or machine a part that will allow you to run a smaller axle on the front than the hub is equipped with. This an adapter to run a 15mm TA hub in 9mm drop outs. The rear is more difficult as hub sizes get wider with larger diameter thru axles. You couldn't make a 12x142 thru axle hub fit in a ...
Top 50 recent answers are included