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9

Most of the noise comes from pawls on the freewheel hitting against the splines on the engagment surfaces which makes up the racheting unit. Some reasons for the noise between freewheels? Tension on pawls could be higher causing more noise as they glide over the engagment surfaces High end freewheels have more pawls and engagement points than lower end ...


6

If you're saying that, off the body, the sprockets move slightly relative to each other, that's not a problem. The sprockets are only just "tacked" together so that they remain in the right order and orientation while off the body. The body provides the strength to hold them. If, on the other hand, you notice that the sprockets slide up and down the body ...


5

the 14t, 15t, etc. is the number of teeth. You currently have a 16 tooth or 16t freewheel. More teeth and the easier to spin, but the slower it spins. Think of teeth on the rear cog as inverse to ease...lower numbers take more power to move; higher numbers take relatively less power. You want to find a good mix that allows you to make it up whatever hills ...


4

I had the same problem (48x38x28 chainset). It turned out that MF-TZ21 is actually not a 'cassette', but a 'freewheel'. Your options for that are very limited: In the UK, Raleigh is distributing a 7 speed 13-24T model for less than 10 quid. SunRace is still producing 7 speed freewheels, but the closed-spaced 12-?? model wasn't distributed in the UK: Check ...


4

The 14/28 is the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cog of the cassette. From your description you want to make at least the second number smaller, possibly the first number. As long as your replacement says that it's Shimano compatible (and 7 speed), you should be fine. Count the teeth on the cog that has the most teeth that you actually ...


4

There are really three components to the multi-speed hub: The hub proper, and most of the bearings The ratchet mechanism that allows the hub to "freewheel" The sprocket cluster On older bikes the sprocket cluster and ratchet mechanism are combined, whereas on newer bikes the hub and ratchet mechanism are combined. As with "clipless pedals", the ...


3

Wheels that take a cassette (Road, Mountain Bike, etc) generally come with a freewheel hub. Generally these are Shimano/SRAM compatible or Campy compatible. If it doesn't say, you can just about bet on Shimano/SRAM compat. The wheelset you linked to does and is Shimano/SRAM compat. Wheels for fixies/tracks/single speeds usually do not have a freewheel ...


3

I love ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) for freewheel (not free hub) lube. What I do is lift the bike-- if someone can help you with this, it's a bit easier-- so that you can rotate the pedals (and make the back wheel spin). Ideally, the bike should be tilted to the non-drive side about 45-60 degrees. With the back wheel rotating, you can see where to ...


3

My son wanted to change his freewheel/cassete hub to a freecoaster hub so I did some research about 6 months ago and found this great YouTube video from Odyssey and RideBMX magazine all about freecoaster hubs. As you said, the cranks will not move when coasting backwards. For my son, this is the real advantage and why he wanted the hubs. Landing a 180 out ...


3

Since you have friction shifters and an 8/9 speed derailleur, you should be able to pop a 9 speed cassette on the back and use the full range. You'll have to re-adjust your limit screws of course. Worst case, if that doesn't work, you may be able to remove one of the small cogs and space it out to use only 8 speeds. The font chainrings will also likely be ...


3

As already said, Shimano used to manufacture Silient Clutch rear hub. But that has been stopped a few years ago, so if you manage to source one - you are lucky man. I used to have one of them and it was truly silent. It was heavier than standard shimano LX hub, but it was silent and with instant engagement. Also I used Chris King hubs. If you put a lot ...


3

Police / Law Enforcement bikes often have a quiet freehub. This Cannondale Law Enforcement bicycle refers to it as a "Silent Clutch Rear Hub" and specifically mentions "R085" as a model number (further googling suggests it's a Shimano).


3

To follow up on Tha Riddla's answer: If your freewheel is freewheeling in both directions, in all likelihood it is gummed up inside and the pawls are stuck open. (As a small note: the freewheel is separate from the hub and contains bearings, pawls, springs, and some lubricant.) You can either try to overhaul the freewheel or purchase a new one (they range ...


2

There are plenty of wheels that will fit that bike, and they may very well be less expensive than having the hub overhauled. You want to find a 26 inch wheel with an 8/9 speed cassette compatible hub, with 32 spokes ( that's the 32H part ) I actually don't see any on Amazon.com that fit the bill. This is one of those times I would head into the local bike ...


2

Need better pictures to get a clear idea as to what is going on here, but assuming that the chain tension is good and the derailleur spring is okay, I'd check to make sure your derailleur hanger is straight. Especially on older derailleurs, this can allow the chain to be received by the cogs at an angle whereby the cog above and/or cog below can 'trap' the ...


2

I decided to put up another answer because while Daniel's hunch and Billy's excellent answer get at the gist of the solution, I did find some specifics that might help someone else (though perhaps only a SRAM S27 owner). First of all, the service manual is pretty helpful. In my case, the "end cap" was tighening on its own during rides. Normally, this ...


2

Unless you have sealed bearings, my money will be on the cone nuts. The most common way to adjust them is with a flat wrench. The rear wheel is the most complicated, but it isn't that bad. Remove the wheel from the forks and loosen all the nuts on the left side, the side that doesn't have the gears. You only need to loosen them enough to expose the cone ...


2

I don't know about other bikes, but in BMX there is a type of hub called a freecoaster - you can coast backwards and forwards without pedaling, and it is silent. Apparently they have them for mountain bikes as well.


2

I also use friction shifters, and recently put a 10 speed cassette onto my freehub - previously I had a seven. I put a 10 speed chain on as the chain walls are narrower. I have not yet changed the front chainrings, which are "eight speed". In your case put on a chain to match your cassette. Seven speed cassettes usually have a spacer on the wheel side when ...


1

Shimano R085, 8/9 speed, 36H $100 QBike.com 2595 N. Federal Highway , Fort Lauderdale, FL 33305 800-390-2122 http://store.qbike.com/shimano-hub-rear-fh-r085-36-cl-8-9s-black-bulk.html this is the only thing i've been able to find. been searching since new years 2013.


1

Short answer is get used to it. The clicking of freehubs/freewheels is like a fine wine- it's an acquired taste. That said, the drier the hub is of lubricant, the louder it will become. You can squirt some grease in there to quieten the freewheel down if it's getting dry. The heavier the grease, the quieter it will make the clicking. Some freehubs actually ...


1

Really any 6 speed freewheel will work. You'll want to get the tooth numbers close, but they don't have to be exact (your 14-28 will be a fine replacement.) Chain sizing for 6-7-8 speed drivetrains hasn't been significantly changed since they became popular, though the profiles and faces of the freewheel cog teeth have, in most brands, been altered to ...


1

The smallest cog appears to be rather badly worn (hard to say for sure without a shot from the side) and the second smallest is sorta worn, but otherwise the cluster doesn't appear to be very worn at all. I do note that in your shots you have the front on the granny and the rear on the small cog, meaning that your chain tension is very low. One generally ...



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