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9

If you take the back wheel off you should be able to examine the freewheel/cassette to determine which it is. Here is a picture of some common types. If yours doesn't look like one in the picture, post a close up and I'm sure someone here can identify it.


8

The point is efficiency. Cyclists actually have quite a narrow optimal power band. Most of us can bang away at a cadence of 50 rpm, up to about 90 rpm. Some of us pedal faster - 90 to 120 rpm. At those lower cadences (50) it feels like we're producing lots of power and at the high cadences it feels like we're just breezing along. But that is confusing ...


8

From personal experience, having just changed to a cassette with less range, I have to say that smaller steps definitely offers some advantage. I went from an 8-speed 11-32 to a 12-23. Having a single tooth of difference between adjacent gears means that it's more likely that you will be in the "right gear". The "right gear" is the gear in which you aren't ...


6

The hub is the body at the center of the wheel containing the axle. It is more or less just some bearings in a pair of cups that rotate around the axle. The freewheel is the mechanism that locks when pedaling forward (forcing the wheel to be driven by the chain) and spins freely when coasting or pedaling backward. These are two variations on freewheel ...


5

No, it is not a good idea. You'd be spending more than the bike is worth even for a basic internal gear hub (even assuming you got the wheel rebuilt for free using the existing rim and spokes, if possible), let alone buying a rear wheel with an IGH built in. You do need a chain tensioning pulley or horizontal dropouts, which while can be built more robustly ...


4

Its likely disassembles in one of two ways: two cone wrenches (one on each side of the hub) to remove the jam nuts. This is the likely option. From your photo it looks like there is a flat spot on the jam nut. two hex wrenches (one on each side of the hub) that fit into the axle end. Two videos demonstrating these techniques: http://aol.it/15nYDub ...


3

If the 30 is worn to the point its slipping and jumping, I would my guess the others must be due for replacement, along with the chain. Individual cogs tend to only be available in high quality gear, so a new cluster will probably cost less than a single cog. Replace the cluster and chain if you can afford it. If not, the cheapest way would be to get a ...


3

Not something I do often enough to worry about, but certainly a 'problem' I also have.... One solutiojn that comes to mind is write "Install" and "Remove" in the side of the handle you can see when installing and removing (My luck would be I would get it wrong way round).


3

The ISO freewheel thread standard is 1.375" x 24tpi Most freewheels I have encountered have been ISO. Some hubs use "British" threading at 1.370" x 24tpi If you use an ISO freewheel on a British thread, it will work, but you should check there is enough thread engagement to avoid stripping the hub. The trials-oriented retailer TartyBikes suggests 9 thread ...


3

They lock up Pretend just 1 pawl and just 1 tooth. Crank is fixed - left and right chainring spin at same rpm. Hub is fixed - left and right pawl spin at same rpm. The green part is attached to the hub that is attached to the wheel. The teeth are attacked to the cogs that are attached to the chain. Gearing 2:1 left (higher faster) assume 32 ...


3

In general, yes. They use the same thread/attachment to the hub and they are almost the same width. If you have friction shifting it will work fine, but if you have indexed shifting that will obviously not work - the spacing between cogs is different. There's more information here


2

I found a bunch of forum posts from people with similar problems. Shimano freewheels made prior to about 1985 have smaller diameters, about 20mm instead of 22-23mm that they have today. A search for "Shimano freewheel remover 20mm" brings up some useful results. It looks like Bicycle Research Tools makes a remover called the CT-4 which is designed for older ...


2

If your rims are bending under normal loads there are a couple of things you should check and maintain: Tire Pressure: Running at the higher range of pressure for your tires will help you avoid bending the rims when you hit holes or other obstacles. Wider Tires: If your brake clearance supports it, you can run slightly wider tires. This will give you a ...


2

sounds like your chainrings are worn. Look at the rings and see if they are "shark fin" shaped rather than symmetrical - a google image search for "worn out chainring" will show examples including some really, really worn out rings. The old worn out chain likely wore out the rings as well. I've had exactly what you're describing on a couple bikes and it ...


2

Since this was mentioned in a comment, freewheels are not the same as freehubs+cassettes (see http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html) for details. The rest of the discussion should hold if freewheel is replaced with cassette+freehub though with minor modifications - I don't know if this bike has a freewheel or a cassette+freehub since I can't load the product ...


2

If we use the Sheldon Brown Gear Calculator set to metres development (although any other unit will work adequately), we see that the range for a 39-53 x 34-11 system is 2.5 to 10.4 metres developed per crank revolution, yielding an overall range of 416%. The widest range options from various companies are the Shimano Alfine 11 hub, which has a range of ...


2

Some good guidelines are here, courtesy of Sheldon Brown. Assuming you have the right freehub body for Shimano/SRAM-style cassettes on the FTS-X, you just (probably) need a 4.5mm spacer behind the cassette.


2

This is my mental experiment on this. The O.P. states he would install a bigger cog on the left, and a bigger chainring on the right, resulting on a higher (faster) gear ration on right side and a lower(slower) gear ratio on the left. Now, if the freewheel is installed normally (i.e. freewheeling on coast) then this happens: If the freewheel is on the ...


2

After thinking about this for awhile, I think this would work, albeit somewhat clumsily. It would operate similar to a retro-direct, except with no reversing for the second freewheel. You would have to use good quality freewheels to avoid having both of them engaging together and binding. To answer a commenter Blam: Just how would you expect it to ...


2

According to http://www.bikepro.com/products/freewheels/shimfw.html: There are thirty-eight 3.0mm inner steel ball bearings used in the inner bearing assembly


2

I don't think 100kg should bend a decent axle. I have 7.000 km since I replaced my axle with a Point $5 one and it's still ok, on a freewheel 7-speed hub like yours. Definitely they should replace it on warranty. If not, you can replace only the axle with a better one.


2

FWIW, that is a junior racing freewheel from back in the day. Juniors have a limited high gear ratio they can use. Now as to whether a corn cob ( that was the nickname for it in the USA) really helps or not, every racer certainly believes that they do. And with power meters you can prove it. All I know is that when you're suffering at the back, having just ...


2

Yes, the Park FR-1 (or something compatible) is your friend.


1

(axle width) Maybe, there is a pretty good chance your bike is already at 130mm O.L.D. spacing. Road bikes would be at 120 or 126mm from that era, but a mid 80's MTB has a reasonable chance of being at 130mm. http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#old 2-3. All chains for geared bikes are 3/32 interior dimension, the difference between 7-11 speed is the ...


1

Maintaining a freewheel (especially the body) is a PITA and finding the right cog to do it is more trouble than its worth unless you're really attached to it for some reason. You could just not use the 30t cog, or throw on a new freewheel. If you really want to pursue this avenue, Sheldon has some words of advice (I'd probably start with grinding the teeth ...


1

Yes that is as single speed freewheel and those two pieces should not stick There are some serviceable freewheels (White) but they are expensive Pretty sure you need to replace the freewheel Based on the rust it looks old If you remove it from the bike and it sticks then for sure you need to replace it You can try spraying a lubricant in the grove but most ...


1

I don't think old freewheels are "better" by default. While it's true that most of today's thread-on freewheels are junk, that doesn't promote the junk of yesteryear to "desirable" status. However, perhaps the median quality level was higher back in the day. In the days before freehubs, freewheels, like most things, ranged from the downright awful to the ...


1

This Shimano tech doc has the relevant part numbers for you. Y3CZ98040, I think. You may want just part of it though. It also has a handy interchangeability table, that tells me a freehub body from an M985 or M775 would work too, but might be the wrong colour. You can look up more here.


1

If your hub is in good condition & you wish to keep it having the wheel rebuilt is the way to go. However if your shop is trying to charge you more then 100$ish dollars for a rebuild, especially on an older hub perhaps consider doing the rebuild yourself. Re/building wheels is not a particularly difficult task with a wheel stand & proper tools all of ...


1

The freehub turned out to be a Formula freehub. I managed to source it from Silverfish UK.



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