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7

You can buy a flip hub rear wheel where one side is fixed, the other free (Some bikes even come with them). You just take the wheel off, flip sides and put it back on. Brakes will depend on the frame but most frames allow for the installation of brakes. For the rear brake, you'll just have run full cable housing along the frame with either wire ties or cable ...


6

That's a freehub body. Look on the hub for the model of hub you have, and then you can use that to find the appropriate freehub body model by looking at the documentation of the hub.


4

SRAM Cassettes are compatible with Shimano Cassettes, but a cassette and a freewheel are different components. You will not be able to use the SRAM Cassette to replace your Shimano Freewheel. You will need to replace your freewheel with a freewheel. The difference between a cassette and a freewheel is that a cassette is just a bunch of cogs that slides ...


3

If you have a freewheel (which it seems like you have on the BSO), and theres anything wrong with it, the solution is to replace it (if those directions don't work, you can try this method). In general, they're not user serviceable parts. My guess is that you have some pawls stuck or something. A stopgap measure that might work is dumping wd-40 or similar ...


3

Found a few sources by searching on "compact 7-speed freewheel" – here is what Sheldon Brown / Harris Cyclery has. The claim is that they will work, perhaps with the addition of a thin washer or two if the clearance is tight around your dropouts. The appear to have new (or maybe NOS) Sunrace FW760 (13-25), and Shimano FW722 (13-28), and a FW723 (14-34) ...


3

This is not a 'legitimate' reason to avoid quick releases. Just like anything in life, there are low and high quality offerings, and there is good and bad luck. Your friend either has a low quality wheel or bad luck. The bar for quality on a BSO is pretty low, so even if his is nicer than yours, it might still not be high quality. All my wheels besides ...


3

A 6 speed bike has 126 mm rear spacing while more modern wheels will need 130 mm rear spacing (which you can fix by cold setting the frame). If you're getting a new front wheel too, you will need to do this to the fork as well (likely). If you go 7 speed and up, you can get a cassette wheel, but if your Tempo has indexed shifting, you'll need to use friction ...


3

Just because a wheel is buckled doesn't mean that it can't be fixed. You may want to take it to a bike shop. As for will the wheel fit, first note that you'll need 6 speed shifters unless you're using friction shifters. As for the wheel actually fitting, you need to check the hub spacing -- for example, 5 speed rear wheels for road bikes normally use 120 mm ...


3

Clarification - I count 24 slots for a 24 spline removal tool, and not 25 as you state. Jumping off from there I suspect you may have a Normandy/Maillard freewheel which takes a Bicycle Research Tools CT-3 24 spline freewheel removal tool. Link to tool: http://www.bicycletool.com/normandymaillardfreewheeltool.aspx Here's a link to the Bikeforums thread ...


2

Freewheels do require lubrication sometimes. I suspect that if you drip some oil (I've used air tool oil, which is pretty light, but anything will be OK) in there with the bike tilted so the is freewheel up the pawls with become unstuck and it will work fine. In my experience it won't take much oil or time, it should free right up if lubrication actually ...


2

It seems like the first question to answer here is: freewheel vs. cassette. The, assumed, age of the wheel and being a 6-speed does suggest that it's a freewheel. However, even if it is an original wheel from the late '70s it is not out of the question that it could be a cassette (at least according to Wikipedia). Looking at the parts, I see several clues ...


2

A warped frame will not cause wobble when the wheel is moved by hand. A warped frame can cause wobble when riding at speeds since the wheel is not straight. However, if the wheel has play (moves side to side without rotating) in the frame, then the hub is not properly adjusted or is damaged. The noise issues could be from any number places and should ...


2

That doesn't look like a screw on freewheel hub, that's an 8 speed freehub designed for a slide on cassette. I have the same one. Its the older design called Exa drive. When Campagnolo went to 9 speed the shape of the spines were changed and made deeper. This is why your conversions kit doesnt work , as its designed for the newer style freehubs. See the page ...


2

The easiest thing may be to just think of it as applying the same exact force that you would be if you were riding the bike...


1

In short, no. Bad idea. But if you get lucky a couple of times, yes, it could work like you want. 8spd freewheels cost about the same as 7spds, so not much risk in 'going for it' and failing. Realistically, stick to 7 spd and upgrade the RD for the extra capacity to deal with the big cog if you must... but I'd try it out first, they usually ship long cage ...


1

Yes - 24 to 34 is a big jump, but in practice it just takes another half to one second to complete the shift. Also helps that you'll be riding relatively slowly by the time you want that gear, probably ~10 km/h and likely half that speed. A freewheel is not cheap but is not ridiculously expensive either. You should buy one, fit it, and try it out.


1

Yes - chains can be broken and will also wear quicker when under stress from low gearing. I have snapped a almost new KMC chain while on a 15% climb. I would have been in 26/42 on a 26" MTB. Fortunately I was going very slow. The pedals spun, so I clamped on brakes while unclipping. The slope meant I couldn't reach the ground straight below the seat, ...


1

If I don't ride hard, is it ok to use an 8 speed freewheel? Here are two answers: No, because a person who asks this question clearly understands the risks. The fact that someone who understands the risks is asking the internet whether the person should assume those risks indicates that the person is not capable of judging (or is uncertain of his ...


1

What I think you are saying is that when you stand beside the bike and push it side-to-side you can see the wheel wobble. That sounds to me like the bearings in the rear hub need to be adjusted. They don't need to be far out for it to cause significant movement at the rim.


1

You'd need to replace the hub (i.e. build the wheel with a new hub -- typically, its better to just get a new wheel), and then respace the frame (i.e. coldset) to take the new hub. It's easy still to find freewheels, so I'd recommend you just replace the freewheel.


1

this week should be the litmus test. i had to order a freewheel removal tool (Maillard 40 mm x 24 notch if memory serves) and i have found 2 companies* that might have the parts i need. i've had to put it down for a couple of days and take a deep breath. i'll regroup and go at it again when the remover arrives. Bike Tools Etc. & Loose Screws Bicycle ...


1

In my opinion, freewheel vs cassette is probably more relevant to axle issues than solid vs hollow. Back in the 70's I weighed 150 pounds, and broke or bent a couple of solid axles on freewheel equipped rear wheels. I spent many years without cycling. Since 2003 I have been riding primarily cassette bikes, and I weigh over 300 pounds. I have not yet bent ...


1

My guess is that the rear hub is defective, or (at least for the first incident) was improperly assembled. If the cone lock nuts on the axle are not set tight enough, it's possible (especially with a slightly bad or poorly lubricated bearing) for the (probably right) cone nut to be pulled tighter and tighter until either the bearing seizes or the axle ...


1

You already more or less answered your own question. The reason is that in a freewheel hub the drive side bearing is close to the center of the axle. This gives the forces from your weight and pedaling much more leverage to bend the axle than on a Shimano-style freehub where the drive side bearing is located at the end of the axle. When the axle bends, it ...


1

Freewheel skipping is a very common occurrence when the temperature drops below -25c. Just bring it inside for a few minutes and you will be able to catch a cog on the freewheel or whatever it needs to catch inside. Once peddling never let up on the pressure of each stroke. Never coast. Pedal as you brake to a stop. Then it will stay engaged. I found ...


1

From the comments above, it seems that it really is a free wheel that is making the noise. Apparently cheap free wheels can be like that. Lubing them can help. This discussion has some extra info: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/fixed-single-speed/fix-shimano-freewheel-clunking-noises-150432.html TL;DR version: Get some gear oil or grease gun and apply ...



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