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I stick the lockring remover in and undo it, see which way the cassette turns, and then put the whip on to stop that rotation. The other way (for me as a righty) is to use the primary (right hand) on the lockring tool and use the left hand on the chainwhip. You're always facing the cassette from the right side of the bike, so the chainwhip is up from ...


The easiest thing may be to just think of it as applying the same exact force that you would be if you were riding the bike...


That's a freehub body. Look on the hub for the model of hub you have, and then you can use that to find the appropriate freehub body model by looking at the documentation of the hub.


I am professional bike rider in Spain. As of my knowledge you can find it in UK or Spain. Because there are large cycling market and there is all parts available.


Found a few sources by searching on "compact 7-speed freewheel" – here is what Sheldon Brown / Harris Cyclery has. The claim is that they will work, perhaps with the addition of a thin washer or two if the clearance is tight around your dropouts. The appear to have new (or maybe NOS) Sunrace FW760 (13-25), and Shimano FW722 (13-28), and a FW723 (14-34) ...


The only bad thing with freecoasters is the higher price and the extra pound. It is much easier to fakie out of a quarter or 180 type trick. The bad thing about the cassette is that it is much harder to fakie out of a trick. As you have to back pedal when you fakie it makes it much harder to balance compared to a freecoaster.

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