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You'd need to replace the hub (i.e. build the wheel with a new hub -- typically, its better to just get a new wheel), and then respace the frame (i.e. coldset) to take the new hub. It's easy still to find freewheels, so I'd recommend you just replace the freewheel.


I noticed this as well. In my experience, on higher end road bikes, the cassette that you put on the freehub body makes the most audible difference, versus the actual inner-workings of the freehub itself in most cases, i.e. normal, ratchet style freehub body. Example: I went from a Sram PG-1130 cassette to a PG-1170 recently. The lower end cassette ...


Actually, mtb hubs can be just as loud as road hubs. So it really has nothing to do with riding in a group and being audible for the sake of other riders. As for the reason some are loud. Efficiency has a lot to do with it but It has more to do with the grade of punishment components can withstand and still perform well. I say that because if you have small ...


The kit you link to is to replace a cassette on a freehub. What you have is a freewheel, not a freehub. You need a screw-on freewheel, such as those fitted to BMX and trials bikes. I recommend one with removal lugs (cheaper freewheels don't). I currently use a White Industries freewheel on one of my bikes. It's expensive, but I've been using it for years ...

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