New answers tagged freewheel
What I think you are saying is that when you stand beside the bike and push it side-to-side you can see the wheel wobble. That sounds to me like the bearings in the rear hub need to be adjusted. They don't need to be far out for it to cause significant movement at the rim.
A warped frame will not cause wobble when the wheel is moved by hand. A warped frame can cause wobble when riding at speeds since the wheel is not straight. However, if the wheel has play (moves side to side without rotating) in the frame, then the hub is not properly adjusted or is damaged. The noise issues could be from any number places and should ...
You'd need to replace the hub (i.e. build the wheel with a new hub -- typically, its better to just get a new wheel), and then respace the frame (i.e. coldset) to take the new hub. It's easy still to find freewheels, so I'd recommend you just replace the freewheel.
I noticed this as well. In my experience, on higher end road bikes, the cassette that you put on the freehub body makes the most audible difference, versus the actual inner-workings of the freehub itself in most cases, i.e. normal, ratchet style freehub body. Example: I went from a Sram PG-1130 cassette to a PG-1170 recently. The lower end cassette ...
Actually, mtb hubs can be just as loud as road hubs. So it really has nothing to do with riding in a group and being audible for the sake of other riders. As for the reason some are loud. Efficiency has a lot to do with it but It has more to do with the grade of punishment components can withstand and still perform well. I say that because if you have small ...
The kit you link to is to replace a cassette on a freehub. What you have is a freewheel, not a freehub. You need a screw-on freewheel, such as those fitted to BMX and trials bikes. I recommend one with removal lugs (cheaper freewheels don't). I currently use a White Industries freewheel on one of my bikes. It's expensive, but I've been using it for years ...
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