New answers tagged gears
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I'm assuming this is a 3 piece Shimano sealed-cartridge square-taper style bottom bracket, since you didn't provide any further info, and that fits the price/style/vintage of that bike. (for more on bottom bracket styles, read the always useful Sheldon Brown site). Additionally, how is the derailleur out of adjustment? Is it a cable tension issue? Is it not ...
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Mostly cosmetic and weight. You can check shimano website (http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/tech_support/tech_docs.html) and look for "exploded parts" documents the parts your interested in. You will find that different level of components (105 vs ultegra) share a lot of smaller components and where it differs sometimes it's ...
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Since you don't mention specific group sets (ie 6700, 6600, etc.) I'll say the primary differences are going to be weight and feel and to a lesser extent performance.
Ultegra 6700 levers are carbon fiber with a 'better' shape that some say offers better brake feel. Also the pivot point is different on 6700 vs 5700 (105) as it has trickled down from the Dura ...
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It would have been slightly helpful if you told us from what front and back gear ratio (e.g. 2:3 or 2:4) the problem starts occurring.
I had similar problems and it was even the case when I was changing to higher front gear but the cassettes (or clogs) did not change or they changed after a long time when it received external shocks from my ride. Did you ...
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I have double kickstand on the bike which can act as mini repair stand. I pull the bike on the kickstand, and put some weight (u-lock and chain) on the front of the bike so it tilts forward and back wheel gets lifted in the air.
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Normal workbenches have these big clamp tools attached to the border of the bench. LINK TO IMG
You can turn your bicycle upside down and carefully clamp the top tube. I use rags to protect the frame. The bicycle is as stable as it can get.
EDIT* This method should only be used on steel frames and with great care. Also keep in mind that high quality steel ...
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A cheap solution is a wall-mounted bike holding stand. The simple ones are just a couple of prongs that stick out from the wall and support the top tube of your bike. Something like this is $US40 or you can get fancy with this (will work better with sloping top tubes)
I suspect you could build one out of a 1.5m length of timber and some screws quite easily, ...
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In my experience, most light work can be done with the bike stored upside down (standing on the handlebars and seat). Of course, I'm assuming that you're talking about a road bike. Other bikes, like a mountainbike with a twist-shifters or trigger-shifting, might not be as well suited.
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Before I bought a bike stand, I used the bike rack on my car. I still use it in a pinch.
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I have two large hooks attached to my basement ceiling. I attach a 1 inch cargo strap (look for them in camping supplies) from the hook to my saddle and a second around the bars and stem. This suspends the bike while allowing the wheels and crank to spin freely. By adjusting the strap length I can position the bike so the area being worked on is close to eye ...
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Before going further, ask your self this:
You need to drive your UK-purchased car in the US now. OMG, US is right-hand drive but the UK is left-hand. you now need to change the position of my gear and streering wheels to the other side.
Does this sound logical to you? Does it make your life comfortable? Are you gonna buy a new car now?
Same logic my ...
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Short answer: yes, but a Rohloff works for me.
I've been riding a Rohloff-equipped RotoVelo on and off for a couple of years now. I did play with the gearing a little when I got it and it's pretty usable now. The RotoVelo weighs about 33kg and I live in a relatively flat city.
I have it set up so that spinning reasonably fast in bottom gear I'm doing about ...
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Your issue sounds like a worn chain/cassette. Take the bike to your LBS (Local Bike Shop) and have them look at it. You can also check yourself to see if the rear cassette teeth look like sharks teeth, that's generally a good indicator of wear. Here is another post that may help you.
Generally skipping teeth is a sign of a worn cassette/chain, but it ...
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Kind of what Daniel said, brakes are easy. Sit down and think about it for a minute, all you have to do is switch the cables. Run the front cable to the left and run the rear cable to the right.
If you want to switch the shifters you will probably run into some trouble. You won't be able to just switch the cables, you would have to get shifters that work on ...
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It depends what kind of 'workout' you want. If you want to work your cardiovascular then being in a gear that allows you to maintain a cadence of 90rpm (or comfortable spinning if you don' have a cadence sensor) will be great.
If you want to build some climbing muscles then the big ring is where it's at. I have a hill that is about 5-6% on my way home and I ...
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If you're talking about a derailleur-style bike, a quick check is to suspend the rear wheel somehow (sometimes you can hang the nose of the seat on something, eg, or see if the rental place doesn't have a work stand) and crank the pedals with your hand while you shift through the gears. On a bike with indexed shifters the transitions should be smooth and ...
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