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56

There are 3 basic hand positions that most people use on a drop bar: Hand position 1: On the Hoods - This position allows you to reach the brakes and shifters without moving your and allows a fairly upright, and comfortable body position. Most riders spend 75-90% of their miles in this position. Hand position 2: On the Drops - This position is ideal for ...


32

The main advantage is more hand positions. With a regular flat bar, you hold your hands at the grips (with possibly about one more hand position available if you have bar ends). With drop bars, you can hold at: The brake hoods (on top of the brake levers) The drops (the bottom part of the bar) The tops (on the left and right of the stem) That place ...


24

Bar ends are typically banned from group/club rides because of the potential to hook another rider when riding in a tight group. Because a flat MTB-style handlebar is wider than a drop bar, adding bar ends increases the likelihood of snagging another rider. (drop bars still can cause crashes though, which I've seen first hand) On the plus side, adding bar ...


18

"Middle of the bar", "On the tops", "Middle", "Top", "Tops", "Center" Hands on the part of the bar closest to the stem. The middle has some width and you can slide your hands around there. "On the corners", "Corners" Hands at the outside end of the section where the bar turns. You can grip the corner different ways. There's a sort of position in between ...


16

Report it to his insurance company first. Period. If for whatever reason the driver decides to renege on his admittance of fault and declines to pay damages to your bike, you're basically screwed if you're past the insurance company's reporting threshold. However, do not sign any paperwork the insurance company asks you to (which may limit their liability ...


16

Two solutions I've used: Spray the inside of the grip with hair spray. Slide it on immediately, and then when the hair spray dries, it will glue the grip in place. Use rubbing alcohol. It does not do as good of a job at locking the grip in place, but it does evaporate quickly and doesn't leave any lubricant inside the grip.


15

I did this on my previous bike, and while it was a lot of fun (and I enjoyed riding the resulting bike) it was also quite expensive, almost half the cost of the bike. You should also be prepared to put in a fair amount of research to determine if all the parts will work together. Here's what's involved: New bars (of course) New stem -- unless you can ...


14

Flat bars The simplest kind of handlebar, these are a straight bar with grips on the end. Flat bars were traditionally only used by cross-country riders but now you see them in more general application. Flat bars (image credit) Flat bars offer more space to mount lights and computers than drop bars. These bars have bar ends attached for additional ...


14

John Duggan wrote an excellent checklist for what to do after a bike/car crash. It sounds like you've already handled the first part pretty well, but here are the steps he advises: Do get the necessary medical treatment. Do have your bike thoroughly inspected by a reputable bike shop. Do take photographs of the accident scene, your injuries, your ...


12

There is no single official accepted guidance. Typically the more you ride, the lower you will tolerate your bars, drops or straights. Pro cyclists have them as low as 10-15 cm below saddle, while amateurs tend to have them level or slightly higher than the saddle. Don't worry that you cannot spend all your time in drops. Even pro cyclists prefer the more ...


12

Drop bars Usually seen on road bikes. Designed to give the rider multiple hand positions, as well as the ability to "tuck" forward, decreasing wind drag. These can be fitted with aerobars for additional aerodynamic advantage. Drop bars are generally narrower than fat bars, and don't offer quite as much detailed control over the bike on uneven surfaces. ...


12

Butterfly Bars - also known as touring or trekking bars Pros: Lots of different positions available Cons: Not very light. Often used for long distance touring bikes where comfort through being able to use different riding positions is essential.


12

Anywhere from a month or two to years and years; how long handlebar tape lasts depends on too many factors to really answer this with a number. Of course, how often you cycle is a factor, but how good the tape is and how well it's applied also makes a difference. For example, gel tape is notorious for wearing quickly, as the gel gets pushed away from where ...


11

Tri-bars (or aerobars) originating from triathlon, but now seen in almost any time trial situation where the racer is alone and not able to ride in a group. The pros of the design are to promote a static, streamlined position, where the rider cannot easily move but will remain in a aerodynamically advantageous position, thus resulting in a faster ride. ...


11

Bullhorn Handlebars (Sheldon Brown calls the Cowhorn bars, although I've never heard that term elsewhere. AKA combination bars.) These can sometimes be found at the local bike dump cheaply. Some find them quite comfortable, and they allow a lot of different positions. Although purpose-made handlebars are generally better, it's possible to make a set of ...


11

Be removing the cap from the front of the lever, a hex socket is revealed through a small opening, which can be tightened to snug the lever to the handle bar:


11

What you're looking for are called Cross or Interrupter levers (i.e. they interrupt the brake cable housing--the cable passes through them. It is worth noting that in the video the cables protruding from the sides of the brake hoods are shifter cables...the brake cable is routed under the handlebar tape to the cross levers). Most setups are designed to work ...


11

I believe that's the logo for Dyno which was acquired by GT in the '80s.


11

For a city commuter bike, don't bother with disk brakes - go for simple rim brakes. You'll want the reliability over all else. You don't need disks for most types of road cycling, as the limiting factor for grip is likely to be your tyre anyway. As regards shifters, go with whatever is comfortable for you. I like the combination of brakes and gear levers in ...


11

I now realise "gran fondo" is American terminology for "cyclosportive". That sort of event falls loosely between audax and racing. The randonneuring community prize responsible riding, and tend to frown upon behaviour or equipment that could be deemed "antisocial". For example, most audax events require riders to fit mudguards, for the benefit of others. In ...


10

Cruiser bars Allow the rider to sit upright on a bike while holding the bars. Also known as upright or North Road handlebars, these are common on cruiser bikes and some comfort bikes. They sweep back towards the rider, with grips that point more towards the back than to the sides. Cruiser bike with handlebars (Photo credit)


10

One of the more interesting bars I've tried is the Titec H-Bar (there are also other brands of H-Bar, as I recall). Insane amount of hand positions. Can be hard to find a good spot for levers and shifters, though.


10

I commute every day in SF with drop bars. It's not an issue for me. You quickly adapt to the hand position, if you bike is set up in a way that is comfortable for you. The real safety issue you should be worried about, IMHO is not braking itself, but rather the "heads-down" position you can be in on the bike itself. You have to get used to looking around ...


10

The most common measurement I've seen is c-c (centre to centre), the distance between the two horizontal tops of the drops, running parallel with the stem and behind the hoods. If that doesn't make sense, see the following image. Image credit bikerumour.com However, you're right to check this as not everyone does it this way. The internal or external ...


10

What he hammered down is the star nut. It's a gription (yes I made that word up) device that serves as an anchor point in the steer tube to allow the top cap to properly compress the headset during a headset adjustment. Old or damaged star nuts are often driven all the way through the steer tube to remove them (that's why your steer tube is open at the ...


9

Riser-bars place the rider in a more upright position than completely flat bars and might be better for mountain-bike technical maneuvers such as slow drops to flat (hucking) and just generally lifting the front wheel to clear trail obstacles. (They are still flat handlebars, but are raised at the ends.) Handlebar width is also important and the trend for ...


9

Two more positions (or variations): There is also an area in between position (1) and (3), on the corner of the bars and (depending on the bar) in between the corner and the hoods. I probably spend most of my time in these positions. Also, if I want to get in a more aerodynamic position, but not go into the drops, holding the tops of the hoods works well ...


9

Drop bars in of themselves are fine for winter riding. However, there are some peripheral issues involved. Your average flat bars will offer a bit more control in slippery conditions because flat bars are much, much wider than drop bars. A bike equipped with drop bars may not be the best bike for winter riding. But properly configured and sized drops can be ...


9

Best solution (probably available only at shops): use an air compressor with a narrow tip to inject air between the grip and the handlebar at an angle (like spiralling around). This will create an air cushion and you can move the grip around (keep moving the air jet as you apply the air jet, since only in some positions the air cushion is formed). Less ...



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