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7

The GT Aggressor 2.0 2014 ships with a rear wheel which uses a freewheel, so if you want to go 9 speed, you need a rear wheel which has a Shimano-compatible cassette freehub as well as a 9 speed rear shifter which is Shimano compatible (and obviously a 9 speed cassette). Buying a new rear wheel will be likely cheaper and more reliable than having the ...


6

The first thing to note is "Does the 8 speed hub clear the dropouts ?" You may be able to spread the frame if steel. Since you're likely going from a 120mm to 130 mm (which is 2 sizes - 120->126->130), you should be cold setting it. The second question would be "Can the brakes reach the rim?" Unfortunately, to my knowledge, nobody makes a 5 speed ...


6

Unless you have a lathe the tolerances are going to be too high for you to be able to to do an acceptable job here. Plus, I believe that the cone is surface hardened, after you grind through that the underlying material will be too soft. If you visit your local bike shop they should be able to match it up.


5

That looks fixable to me. What probably happened is the locknut was loose, and continued riding caused both cone and locknut to unscrew. It's a good job you've stopped riding that bike - riding on that hub now would cause significant damage. When a hub has a bit of play, the balls are free to move across parts of the cup and cone that aren't designed to ...


5

There is supposed to be a locknut on the axle, as well as the cone. When adjusting the bearings it's important to get the locknut quite tight against the cone, so that the pair cannot rotate on the threaded axle. As you've found, if the cone can rotate then it will, from the rotation of the wheel. The left side will get looser (but will be somewhat ...


5

Each kind of grease will perform best at a certain temperature. And is designed for a certain speed of movement of the parts it is used at to reach and not exceed that temperature. So yes, it is worth it to use the special grease for bikes or get an other kind of grease that is designed for the speeds/temperature your parts will get. I found that when a ...


4

I don't believe there is a lot that can be done as this has to due with the material selection for the freehub body shell (soft aluminum). Below is an image of a Velocity hub (on my commute bike) that had the same problem. I actually had to hammer the cassette off of the hub body. In this case a Tiagra cassette (where most of the cogs are pinned together) ...


4

If the cones were too tight, the hub would have died a long time ago. Based on what you're describing, the grease is definitely contaminated and most likely the cones are pitted to some degree. Cups tend to be more durable than cones, but there's no guarantee that they won't be pitted too. You'll find out for sure when you disassemble it. A proper overhaul ...


4

Shimano/SRAM 11 speed cassettes are wider than 8/9/10 speed ones. So yes, you need a new, wider freehub body, unless your old one was not very old and used a spacer to fit a 10-speed cassette. People with non-Shimano brand hubs are less likely to find replacement freehub bodies, it seems, leading to replacement of the whole hub, or even the whole wheel if ...


3

I've seen this issue in the past and the culprit was the axle (not the skewer) in the hub had snapped. Fortunately, the bike was still rideable to a certain extent, as the QR skewer was holding the two broken sections of axle in place. Note that even when the wheel was removed from the frame, it still wasn't immediately obvious that the axle had snapped, ...


3

Use the Rivolta grease and you will be fine. Most important is that it is dense enough, will last over time, stays fluid in low temperature and that it is somewhat water resistance. According to the pdf, the Rivolta will do all those things very good.


3

The bike is made by Univega and probably has a freewheel. If the pedaling motion still works, I'd guess your freewheel is shot (the thing that the gears are on in the back). You have to remove it with a freewheel remover and put on a new one. This requires a freewheel remover tool and a large wrench or vise, so you might want to take it to a shop and let ...


3

Sounds to me like classic symptoms of a dirty drivetrain. If your chain is getting slack on top when you stop pedalling or backpedal, then the problem is in your freehub (or freewheel, whichever you have), a dirty freehub will cause all the problems you've listed, even on a brand new bike. When dirt and grit mixed with excess chain oil get gummed up in the ...


3

In almost all cases when servicing a hub the bearing DO need to be replaced. You may not be able to see it without the aid of a microscope, but the bearings will be slightly pitted after any appreciable period of use. As one user points out, high grade ballbearings in case hardened steel, even grade 25s are very cheap - why cut the corner? Case hardened ...


3

Probably you need to service that hub - or get it serviced by your LBS. That much drag means that either it's full of dirt, or the grease has completely dried up or water contaminated, or the bearings have collapsed. None of those are likely to be fatal, but you would be well advised to open that hub up and clean it out, check the bearings, and re-grease ...


3

As you're not clear on road vs mtb, there's two answers. For 11 spd road drivetrains Shimano uses a 1.85mm wider hub with the drive side flange closer to the centerline to compensate for the additional width. Using a spacer allows the wheel to be backwards compatible to fit a 10 spd cassette. You can't fit a 11spd freehub in place of a 10spd freehub unless ...


3

Most lower end hubs do not come perfectly adjusted from the factory. A quality LBS will have a step in a bike build process that checks and/or adjusts the hubs accordingly. It can be hard to adjust a hub that is unbuilt and between that and machine assembly, they are often close, but not as good as they can be. If you are feeling vibration, I would ...


2

super-reliable not too heavy low maintenance not super expensive Any Shimano XT hub M76X - M77X. Also confider the newer T7XX "touring XT" models. Shimano hubs are exclusively (afaik) loose-bearing rather than cartridge hubs, so they're easily serviceable and the balls are available almost everywhere. The XT range should also have decent seals, durable ...


2

I would recommend doing two things: Reassemble the hub with the thickest grease you can find (within reason). It might slow you down a little, but it will help the bearings last as long as possible. Make a mark on the back side of the cone that corresponds to where the damage is. When you're putting the wheel on, rotate the axle so that the damaged side of ...


2

I've been researching the same thing. Even built my own tool of sorts by drilling two holes through a wrench and inserting drill bits to act as pegs. The wrench is about 6" long and there's no hope in hell either of the "washers" are going to come off. My experiment didn't mess up the holes but I'd say there's a good reason for 6 pins on the Mavic 670 key. ...


2

Details found here: http://productinfo.shimano.com/specifications.html Spoke Hole P.C.D. Left/Right (mm) 45 Flange distance (mm) 57.9 Dish (mm) 8.4 Based on these figures, I would calculate the following values for your chosen Spoke Length Calculator: Centreline to Left flange: 37.35mm Centreline to Right flange: 20.55 Spoke hole diameter is not given. ...


2

No it would not work. The pitt didn't form just because it was on the bottom, the pitt formed either because the cone came loose, or an abrasive got into the bearings. There's an equal amount of force being applied to the top of the cone as there is to the bottom when your hubs are properly adjusted. Think of the components in a hub as a stack, the cup is ...


2

The tools are relatively expensive compared to cone wrenches, but all cartridge bearings can be replaced if needed. http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id176.html You need both a puller and a press of some kind. Cartridge bearings last a very long time with no maintenance at all. Since installing fancy ceramic bearings is part of high end road cycling ...


2

I wouldn't image it is normal for them to be over-tightened - what would be the point? However, its generally advised after buying a machine built bike / wheels to check that spokes / hubs haven't loosening after a breaking in period. This in in comparison with a hand built bike.


2

The webpage for Chris King Hubs says they are easy to service. They supply lots of info sheets, like this hub exploded view, and manual. So I would take it apart and service it. They also sell parts, and since it's a high-end hub I would put some effort into saving it.


2

It looks like the washer in your photo may be a "Wedge-Lock" washer like those available here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=xhptlp They appear to sell under the names "Heico-Lock" & "Nord-Lock". This may be a UK source: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fasteners-fixings/nuts-washers/locking-anti-vibration-washers/ I should note that there ...


1

6 speed spacing is 126mm wide measured from the outside of the locknuts. It's easiest to measure with calipers. However, you can add or remove spacers and possibly install a longer or shorter axle to get that spacing. I bought Campagnolo hubs "back in the day" that came as 6 speed hubs and eventually ran them with 8 speed freewheels, using longer axles ...


1

Many trailers for Vehicles / ATVS use an "open bearing" design. This enables a person to do maintenance on them without completely replacing them out. This is cost effective at this size / scale but when it comes to a bicycle... I would highly suggest you stick with sealed bearings.



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