Hot answers tagged hub
11
If you're going to be respacing, I'd suggest an alternative method from sheldon's 2x4 method. Use a threaded rod with washers and nuts. It's far more controlled and easier to keep your frame aligned, plus you can keep it in the stand as you work.
See here
If you need to adjust the dropout alignment, you can adjust thusly
9
Benzo and Glenn Gervais are right on, but I thought I'd include a photo for any visual learners. This is a typical fixed/free, high flange rear hub. Quite often they're available in 120mm and 130mm OLD to fit different width dropouts. These hubs generally have solid axles without quick releases to prevent the hub from slipping and slackening your chain.
...
6
You likely tightened the cones too tight. Read up on the proper procedure for cone adjustment and be sure to grease it up well.
http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
OR
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment
6
If you're saying that, off the body, the sprockets move slightly relative to each other, that's not a problem. The sprockets are only just "tacked" together so that they remain in the right order and orientation while off the body. The body provides the strength to hold them.
If, on the other hand, you notice that the sprockets slide up and down the body ...
6
You need a freewheel removal tool.
That looks to me like it will take an FR6, but you should measure first if you're planning on buying. Although, this will likely be the only time you ever use it unless you open a bike shop.
Your local bike shop will almost certainly have one of these and be able to whip it off it no time. They might not even charge for ...
5
It does appear a bit off. Looks like there is some extra resistance present somewhere in your drivetrain.
Check your chain tension. If it's too tight, that could be adding resistance.
You could also remove the chain from the fixed cog and spin the wheel to see if the resistance is coming from the hub.
5
If you have a singlespeed, you may already have a flip flop hub. A flip flop hub has threads on both sides of the wheel. Typically there is a side for a freewheel and a side for a fixed gear. Take a look at the rear hub opposite the freewheel and chain.
The fixed gear side will have two tiers of threads, one larger diameter section for a fixed cog and a ...
4
Flip-Flop hubs have freewheel thread on one side, fixed-gear threading on the other side. Many SS bicycles come with this sort of wheel, if you have a sprocket on both sides of your hub, you already have a flip-flop hub/wheel.
If you only have a single sprocket (and it is a fixed gear hub, see note below), you can purchase a fixed sprocket and replace the ...
4
Yes - if you change to a 15mm or 20mm though axle, you will need a new hub to suit. Keep in mind that bike carries that you remove the front wheel and use the QR will be not be useable as well.
Apparently the benefits of the though axle out-weigh the disadvantages of incompatible parts etc. However I would think hard before "upgrading" away from QR and ...
4
In 2001, Kyle and Berto published a comparison of the mechanical efficiency of several configurations of derailleur and internally-geared hubs in Human Power, which you can find here. Among the systems tested were a Shimano MTB derailleur system, a Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub, the Shimano 7-speed Nexus hub, and the 14-speed Rohloff hub. MTB derailleur systems ...
4
No, with either the 8 or 11 speed Alfine hub, there is no possibility of using it on a 120mm frame. The hub shell itself is about 120mm wide, without the cable carriers for shifting, or any spacers at all.
If, as it appears from your 120mm reference, you are considering a fixed gear frame with that spacing, then you should reconsider. 120mm spaced dropouts ...
4
A smaller diameter hub is lighter (and likely cheaper).
A larger diameter hub has several advantages:
The bearings can be larger
Since the spoke flange has a larger diameter, it also has a larger circumference, meaning that spoke holes are farther apart. This reduces the stress on the spoke flange with heavily-loaded bikes, and also makes higher spoke ...
4
The claims are that the through axles offer a stiffer fork, giving more precise handling and performance, over a 9mm QR. 15mm through axles evolved as a lighter alternate to the 20mm ones - which are heavy and overkill for XC and most all mountain riding, with a similar weight to 9mm QR but the stiffer performance.
At the highest end (both bike and rider) ...
4
As you suspected, you may not run a 7 speed free hub with a 9 speed hub shell. You will need a new 9 speed free hub, and continue to use the spacer ass you have been.
Hubs are not generically sized. Each model is sized for the number of gears it is expected to work with. Replacing the freehub will mess with your dropout spacing, or the position of the ...
4
The chain looks a little bit too taut for what I use in my fixie. But I don't rely on my chain to stop the bike, as I am of the sissy kind that rides with brakes, so dropping the chain is not that bad of an issue, although it has never actually happened.
But from your video, there basically does not seem to be any slack in the chain, I try go with 1-2 cm ...
4
If the notches are about 25 mm apart, this may be your baby:
On the Park Tool website there are two very informative documents on freewheel removal, and destructive freewheel removal, which should answer all your questions.
3
There are two things to check here.
Is your chain too tight? When you push on it, it should have some movement. A cm or two.
When tightening your wheel nuts, did you manage to upset the cones on your hubs? Take the wheel off and turn the axel by hand, if it feels like its moving in steps then the cones have got overtightened.
To fix that, you'll need Mr ...
3
The main hazard is that, with so much swapping, you will sooner or later cross-thread the cassette and ruin both cassette and hub. There will also be additional wear on the threaded surfaces and on the spline, where you wrench it on and off. The spline may eventually become too worn to allow removal.
So a lot depends on the care you use -- if you get too ...
3
First things first, make sure you have the specific 'cone' spanners for the locknuts (these are just thin, 2-3mm thick, spanners). They're probably 14/16mm on the front and 15/17mm on the rear. This is one of many jobs that you'll need specific high quality tools for :)
Secondly, from the look of it the front cones have rubber dust seals over them, these ...
3
They both look pretty standard to me. Normally you remove the lock nut and cones from one side. The bearings should be visible and fall out (careful to catch them all.). The axle should then just push through to the other side. If you can see the bearings (or they fell out), a gentle tap, with a light hammer may be needed (although i cannot imagine why) to ...
3
Police / Law Enforcement bikes often have a quiet freehub. This Cannondale Law Enforcement bicycle refers to it as a "Silent Clutch Rear Hub" and specifically mentions "R085" as a model number (further googling suggests it's a Shimano).
3
As already said, Shimano used to manufacture Silient Clutch rear hub. But that has been stopped a few years ago, so if you manage to source one - you are lucky man.
I used to have one of them and it was truly silent. It was heavier than standard shimano LX hub, but it was silent and with instant engagement.
Also I used Chris King hubs. If you put a lot ...
2
http://surlybikes.com/parts/hubs_v1 says "This is a common size so it’s easy to find replacements should the need arise or to swap axles if, for instance, you have a QR axle and want to go solid", so it should be easy enough.
Based on the photos, you might want some cone wrenches even though with cartridge bearings there aren't actually cones as such. As the ...
2
Sheldon Brown has another article on dropout spacing which you may want to read.
The rear dropouts on road bikes are typically 120mm, 126mm, and 130mm.
135mm is usually found on mountain bikes. If you're planning to use MTB wheels on a road frame, you'll have other concerns besides spreading the dropouts.
So far as I understand it, the rule of thumb says ...
2
I decided to put up another answer because while Daniel's hunch and Billy's excellent answer get at the gist of the solution, I did find some specifics that might help someone else (though perhaps only a SRAM S27 owner).
First of all, the service manual is pretty helpful.
In my case, the "end cap" was tighening on its own during rides. Normally, this ...
2
Unless you have sealed bearings, my money will be on the cone nuts. The most common way to adjust them is with a flat wrench. The rear wheel is the most complicated, but it isn't that bad. Remove the wheel from the forks and loosen all the nuts on the left side, the side that doesn't have the gears. You only need to loosen them enough to expose the cone ...
2
While it is possible for a hub flange to fail due to radial lacing, if the wheel is built properly, to proper tension, it doesn't happen, generally.
The reason it happens is because the amount of material between the spoke head and the edge of the flange is least when the spoke is pulling directly to the edge. Under normal usage, the flange has more than ...
2
They have a 135mm version as well. That should be meant to replace the (rear) Rohloff hub when converting a Rohloff drive train to fixed gear/single speed, while keeping the brake disk. Some people may want to do that at least temporarily, and Rohloff compatible frames (without chain tensioner) are by design a good base for fixed gear/single speed conversion ...
2
I'm no expert on Shimano components, but according to Sheldon Brown and Velobase, there were many 32H hubs from the Shimano 600 series: "Shimano added the word 'Ultegra' to their 600 group set in 1988 with the introduction of the 6400 series groupset. Also often recognized by the tri-color stripe on many of the parts."
According to Velobase, this is a 32H ...
2
There are plenty of wheels that will fit that bike, and they may very well be less expensive than having the hub overhauled.
You want to find a 26 inch wheel with an 8/9 speed cassette compatible hub, with 32 spokes ( that's the 32H part )
I actually don't see any on Amazon.com that fit the bill. This is one of those times I would head into the local bike ...
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