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Thou it almost unnoticeable, it exists. It mean, the wheel will last for some (decades) thousands of kilometers until it get very bad. Than you will need a new wheel. If it worth it, take it.


If the cones were too tight, the hub would have died a long time ago. Based on what you're describing, the grease is definitely contaminated and most likely the cones are pitted to some degree. Cups tend to be more durable than cones, but there's no guarantee that they won't be pitted too. You'll find out for sure when you disassemble it. A proper overhaul ...


I've verified that the hub spacing is 145mm - standard for a tandem. The hub on the bike is unmarked, unbranded, and Trek's website simply lists it as "alloy hub". It appears to be a 135mm hub with a longer axle and spacers in place.


Hi I actually have the same tandem bought from e-bay (UK) around a year ago a bit battered. I have replaced both front and back wheels with usual 26" Shimano Deore mountain bike wheels from my local bike shop. Replaced lots of other stuff as well.


I have implemented a somewhat regenerative braking. To simply answer your question, you would need to read the manuals to see if they specifically mention regenerative-braking (RB). If RB is not mentioned, then your controller does not have RB implemented. The regenerative braking (RB) I have made works independently from the bicycle brakes. These are the ...


No it would not work. The pitt didn't form just because it was on the bottom, the pitt formed either because the cone came loose, or an abrasive got into the bearings. There's an equal amount of force being applied to the top of the cone as there is to the bottom when your hubs are properly adjusted. Think of the components in a hub as a stack, the cup is ...

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