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Yeah, the spacer needs notches for the cassette pins. The fact that your LBS didn't think about that shows that they don't know very much. I wouldn't bother going back there. Hope everything got sorted!


One thing to keep in mind is that a hub that feels a tiny bit loose when out of the bike will likely have no play once you put it in the frame/fork. The clamping force on the axle nuts will tighten things up, removing the excess play.


A bearing that is adjusted too tight can actually seize completely. This happened to me once. I overhauled my front hub and tightened the bearing cones too much. Result: a front wheel that plain stopped turning at some point. Too tight adjustment will exert more pressure on the cones and cups, and will probably wear out the bearings faster than too loose ...


Campagnolo wheels are available with both Shimano/SRAM and Campagnolo cassette compatible freewheel bodies. Ask which cassette your friend has and if they have Campagnolo, you can get the correct freehub body as a spare part. SRAM/Shimano and Campagnolo cassettes have slightly different cog spacing. You can mix them, but the derailleur adjustment will be ...


Really hard to say without knowing what hub you're running. Most likely the pawls failed inside the cassette body. The pawls and springs are the mechanism which allow cassette to spin freely independent of the wheel (like when you coast or spin the cranks backward). When forward pressure is applied to the cassette the pawls and springs engage and thus move ...


I had same problem and it was caused because the hub was tightened wrongly. It matters what side is tightened first. So it also could be that the hub just untwisted.


Replacing the axle has worked, but the new axle takes un-keyed washers. It's much harder to adjust pre-load correctly between the cone, washers, locknut, and quick-release. Bikeforums.net suggest these hubs are garbage, so I am looking into building a new wheel.

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