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The DT Swiss 240s front hub is a sealed bearing hub. Service includes removing the endcaps, removing the bearing seals, regreasing the bearing cartridge, and then reversing the process. There are no special tools required. The end caps are a friction fit, and, while they are tight, they will remove by hand. If bearings are damaged, replace the entire ...


Some ideas - mark the rotor where it rubs. then remove and refit the rotor but turn it 90 degrees relative to the hub. Does it rub in the same place or 90 degrees away? I think you'll find the lump follows the hub, not the rotor. Use a straight edge (like a steel ruler) across the flat of the rotor mount to look for any imperfections - they will be ...


I think @itsthejash has some good tips but I'd also suggest taking the rotor off the hub and making sure there is no dirt or other material on part of the mounting surface of the hub, thus pushing it out in one spot. Maybe use some cleaner to ensure the surface of the hub and rotor are clean on the faces that meet during mounting. Also - when you engage ...


The two notches are to remove the bearing race and dismantle the freehub body often resulting in tiny bearings going everywhere and there a nightmare to re-assemble. If you want to remove the freehub body intact you need to use a 12mm Allan key from the opposite side of the hub.


I've used a short length cut from a steel pipe in the past. As long as the Inner Diameter is barely more than the OD of the axle it will center well enough. The pipe's wall needs to be thick enough to not crumple under pressure. The only trick is to make sure your cut is parallel to the end, and that it is nicely de-burred and any raw steel is painted ...


According to Hope's exploded view for the XC and Mono hubs, the spacer is 14mm.

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