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2

A propperly applied patch should resist inflating the tube up to 1.5-2 times the nominal diameter. This is useful for testing the quality of the patching work but also to find the tiniest holes that sometimes are harder to spot. As other say, the definitive way to test is to inflate and submerge in water or to inflate and let overnight to see if it holds. ...


2

You should inflate the tube to 1.5 to 2 times the "normal" diameter, in order to develop a modicum of pressure. (Wait until after the patch has "cured" overnight to do this, however.) Then either test in a tub/sink or let it sit overnight again to see if it loses air. (Getting the tube to fold up nicely is not a problem, if it's a Presta. Just squeegee ...


1

My experience is that you can't fully test a patch until you take it up to full pressure. I had a patch that was fine for months at low pressure on the bike. I took the 2.10 up to full pressure to ride on the road and the patch failed. Even if you put it on the bike to test the problem is getting the fresh tube you used back in the seat bag. I only use ...


2

You have the right idea. Inflate the tube to roughly the side it is in the tyre, which will be a much lower pressure than it would be if it was in a tyre. My floor pump doesn't register the pressure of a tube pumped up like this, so I expect it's less than 10psi/1 bar.


6

I do like you do when riding, and I usually save up my tubes with holes and patch a bunch of them all at once. That way I can use a tub of water to both find the holes, and can go back through them after patching and test to see if they are holding air. If I have any doubt after patching a tube, I give it a little time to cure and then I pump it up and hang ...


0

First save the valve out of any tubes you discard (if the valve is good). And you can buy valve core separate. The valve was two sets of thread. One to open and close the valve and the other to remove the valve core. Removing the pump can loosen the valve core. You can use a tool such as core removal tool or a small pair of pliers to tighten the core. ...


0

I have used similar products in the past with mixed results. The primary benefit is that is both pump and patch so to speak. But it really doesn't replace a spare tube and portable inflator. It's mostly good for slow leaks. I used to keep a can in my office and used it for those situations where I came out to the bike rack and found a flat tire. If it ...


1

If I used this, would I be able to repair the puncture, and reuse the inner tube afterwards? Main use in bikes: tubeless systems / tubular tyres (= sew-up). First, must remedy the cause of the puncture: glass, rim, spoke, etc. Sorry, not for inner tubes as you ask! Tyre must be rolling to be effective. If valve in place application = particles are very ...


3

Slime is lighter and conveniently pre-applied in the convenience of you own own home/garage. Slime tube sealant As for can the tube be repaired? The PedalPower can says temporary but not exactly sure what that means. As for Sime if it seals a small puncture I just stay with Slime only. If it is a larger puncture it might be too big to repair period. I ...


6

Pro's: May be a quick roadside fix. May be able to fix without removing tyre. May last a long time. May offer protection against a second puncture in the same wheel. Con's: Expensive for a puncture. Bulky and heavy. Only one can per tyre. Wouldn't be suitable for some punctures and would be a waste if you didn't realise this. This fix may work for ...


3

Those tires should work just fine. Any of the MTB slick tires listed on that site would work well with your bike and current rims. You can get too small a tire on too wide a rim, but it takes a much bigger jump than from 2" to 1.5 or so. There is a very conservative guide on Sheldon Brown's bike pages. http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html Given your ...


0

There is not an issue going down in size. I see nothing wrong with the tires you have selected. At 300 lbs maybe step up to a 1.75. Just going to a street type tire from the knobby is going to reduce rolling resistance and give you a nicer street ride. When you go down in size that far you should also get new tubes. Once the tubes have been stretched ...


1

I followed the advice of leaving the plastic film on. After a few days the tire went flat again. Inspection revealed that the tube was puckered around the patch because the plastic film does not stretch in the same way as the tube and the patch. The new leak was coming from under the patch. Therefore from now on I am going to try to take the plastic off.


2

Like many comments, it sounds like it's at least partially related to a change in tire pressure. There's also the external change in tire tread that could contribute to the sound change. If you listen to a large knob tire on a road versus a small knob one, they sound totally different. Your tread might be starting to wear, thus giving a different sound. The ...


2

The protective layer is known as "rim tape". The old tube shouldn't remain within the tire - the only thing inside the rim should be the rim tape and the new tube. You may have different tire pressures than before - have you tried playing with them?



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