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1

I loosely tighten before inflation- just to stop the valve from disappearing whilst inflating it. After inflation, it needs to be finger tight- else it will rattle on the rim. This is probably the number one reason why most people don't use them- the slightest looseness here will be very noisy (especially to deeper section wheels).


6

You don't need the nut, really (and its rather abnormal on Schrader valve tube) -- a lot of people just throw it away. The point of the nut is so that the tube's stem doesn't go into the rim when you're trying to inflate the tube and the stem doesn't move around when you're trying to pump the tire. Note that the tube can only go significantly into the rim ...


1

You could try converting your tyres to a tubeless system. I run much lower pressures on my tubeless mountain bike than I used to - they are super resistant to pinch flats. Every now and then I can feel the rear wheel pinching in a way that would previously have caused an instant flat but to date no flats (touch wood!). I find (anecdotal) that the tubeless ...


6

Do a web search for tandem tires. A tandem bike carries two people, so typical loads are even bigger than you. Also, definitely use a pressure gauge. You may think you can tell by feel, but I ride every day and can't tell the difference between 80 and 100 psi.


-3

just pump it on bigger pressure, then two things can happen; 1) inner tube won't be able to hold pressure -> buy some inner tubes for downhill 2) tyre jumps out of rim -> buy some rims for dirt jumping/downhill, they will hold the tire better


1

If you pump up the tyres and then let a little air out you might be able to smell it, at least if it's quite fresh. I haven't used it for a few years but remember quite a distinctive smell compared to the standard rubber smell you get if you let air out.


5

This is close to my goto answer for tyre issues. Tyres designed for touring use are meant for higher loads and inflation pressures. I run marathon plus on my commuter hybrid. They make a 26x2.0 version which is rated to a load of 260lb per tyre and 70psi inflation (which you could probably exceed a little). It's possble that won't fit your rim (see ...


15

As a heavy rider personally, I don't have many issues with flats. A normal tire on the high/maximum pressure works fine to avoid pinch flats. The key is to check tire pressure every time you get on the bike. Even a day will allow a tire to soften 10 psi, and that will allow flats to occur. Road hazard flats are not avoidable except by avoiding the ...


6

We don't do product rec here, but some general advice: You want to find the biggest tires you can fit into the bike, and run them at high pressure. The pressure written on the tire sidewall is useless (the maximum pressure depends on the rim and the tire), but in all likelihood you will be close to or exceeding it on many tires. The particular model of tire ...


3

To find out if there is sealant inside the tube, cut it open - kinda terminal for the tube take it off the rim and deflate it then squish the tube with your hands. It will feel more slippery than an empty tube Hang the deflated tube up for a night and the sealant will pool at the bottom. You should be able to feel it through the tube If the valve core ...


5

It is a commonly used quick and dirty fix when you don't have a purpose-built grommet to install in a rim cut for a Schrader valve. It may also not be a terrible idea if, for whatever reason, your Presta-hole rim has a burr or sharp edge and you want to avoid any possibility of problems with that.


3

No, there is no reason for that type of installation unless the whole in the rim is sized for a Schrader valve, rather than a presta valve. It is, as you found, unlikely to cause an issue though.



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