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48

Whether it's rude is a matter of local custom. Whether you're offended by it depends on your flexibility and sensitivity Often, we cyclists can become a little over sensitive, after having to defend ourselves from car doors, pedestrians, cars, trucks, laws that don't take us into account, police who have a ticket quota, and even other cyclists. Relax. The ...


22

Lock related Have a better lock than the bike next to yours. At the very least get a lock such as this one: http://www.bicycleworkshop.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b1s93p186 they are relatively difficult to break and are easy to operate meaning you'll lock your bike as a matter of course. Don't use a cable lock. Bolt cutters snip them in like 5 seconds. ...


22

Some years ago, Bicycling magazine did a shootout on available locks and the Kryptonite "New York Chain" came out on top. Unfortunately, it weighs more than many bikes and is not easy to carry either. Fine if you can leave it where you lock your bike. I'm with the police department at a major university, and we have a program through Kryptonite where we ...


19

get the kryptonite fahgettaboutit - as small as possible. http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU best lock out there, I don't think you could cut it with bolt cutters, you would need a hydraulic jack (the main reason to go for a smaller lock, so there is no room for the jack), or a disc grinder to get thru it.


18

Try a floor or Wall anchor system, then lock the bike to that. http://lockitt.com/lockdown.htm


18

I used nail varnish, it sticks well to the plastic and is very tough. It's easier to apply than spray paint, but a bit more fiddly and forms a thicker layer of paint. I also used it to mark the locks. You get bottles in the most absurd colours in a 1-pound shop in the teenage cosmetics section.


17

It is all subjective, but I would say that a public place is better (as I have previously answered to a similar question). Most bike thefts are opportunistic; unless you've got an especially desirable bike the theft is not about your bike, it's about stealing any bike. So the key is to reducing the opportunity to steal your bike: as you point out, ...


16

To avoid bike seat being nicked Take it with you (not always practical) Use a cable or chain to attach it to the bike frame. These are made commercially, but even a fairly token bit of wire rope works - the people who will cut that will generally also cut your lock. Get allen key skewers as opposed to quick release. This reduces the chances of theft, but ...


13

I'd pick a different spot in the rack if possible. But if I was in a hurry or there wasn't another suitable place I'd use it (e.g. my bike doesn't fit on the bottom of the double stacker at the station; some places have decent racks and others that don't allow proper locking for all day use). I would try to make sure it's easy to get the lock off, perhaps by ...


11

You can follow the advice in this thread to get your lock off, although my guess is that the lock was either damaged from washing it or water has frozen inside the lock. Once you get it off, if the lock is damaged, Kryptonite has a lifetime warrantee on their locks. I'd call them up and ask if they'll replace it.


11

Is it a cable lock like in the image? If so, bolt cutters. You'll be surprised and dismayed to see how easily you can cut a cable lock with a set of bolt cutters (maybe enough to invest in a better quality lock?) They're cheap, easy to find, and will get through most wire cable and some chain (depending on hardness.) They're also the go-to for most bike ...


11

Paint (and even nail varnish) will chip off the plastic sooner or later. The important thing is to get the paint into the grooves where it's protected. On my recent series 2 this means the logo on one side, the key number on the other. I've got an older series 2 with a slightly different key body, and the grooves on that aren't as deep (and in the case of ...


10

The thing to use in locks is TriFlow (Teflon spray lube). Though you can use a bit of WD40 first to clear out any sticky gunk. Washing with soap and water was probably not the best approach.


10

In the end it might matter more WHO is around the rack (policemen, guards, janitors, public workers, parking lot workers, hot-dog stand owners, etc.) than HOW MANY people. I'd rather, when available, leave my bike under one lonely ever-present alert pair of eyes than in a crowd of anonymous passers-by.


9

It seems like you have 2 basic choices: (1) remove the key from the lock and unlock it with a backup copy of the key, (2) defeat the lock. Option #2 is an awful lot like asking how to steal a bike... Also, option #2 really depends a lot on the specifics of your lock. Lubricate the lock If there's anything sticking out, try grasping it with needlenose ...


9

A trick that couriers use around my area is to carry the key on a rubber band around their wrist - no more fumbling around in the pockets for a key. I find that a lock that you can wear across your chest like a bandolier is most convenient for carrying around. There are a number of chain locks around in this length that have a plastic tube over the chain to ...


9

For frequent use, I think it is hard to beat a lock that is built into the bike, e.g. the Axa Defender that is fixed to the fame of the bike and then locks the wheel; it also has a cable that you can use to lock the bike to the bake stand. It’s great for a lock on a “everyday” bike, as you can’t forget to take it with you.


9

Perhaps you might swap your current quick-release skewers by one of the many "anti-theft" alternatives (listed in my perceived order of security): Pitlock (www.pitlock.com): these require a special shaped key to open. You carry the keys with you, and no thief could take the wheel. Neither yourself if you lose the damn key; Velo Orange anti-theft skewers: a ...


9

You could get some Pitlocks or other secured skewers, and then use a standard U-Lock/Folding lock on your rear stays. I'm not sure if Pitlocks fit a recumbant properly or if you want to trust your entire bike to them (rather than just the wheels) but it would probably be OK. Also, you could use a U-Lock between the seat and the front fork (possibly with ...


9

As for the Kryptonite, cutting one side an bending is certainly possible, but in reality if you can cut one side, you use the same tools to cut the other. The tools needed to bend the link after cutting one side are almost certainly not portable, and why would you carry two tools when one will do. In comparison to the D-lock - if you can cut though 18mm, ...


9

This will depend on MANY things, including but not limited to: local custom office politics special concerns (I can't think of any, but more in this later) utilization of the rack your feelings on the matter type of lock Local custom is important. In some areas it's horridly rude; in others it's common. Does the parking complex for cars have assigned ...


8

I directly contacted Kryptonite customer service for an answer to this question. I quote directly: "The number that you need to register is just the SS followed by 5 numbers. The L code is used at the factory and is not needed." Hope this helps!


8

Ideas: If you still have any of the original paperwork or packaging, look for a lock code/number, you might be able to order replacement keys. Take it to a bike shop and ask. They might have the right tools. They likely do this every once in a while A machine shop is sure to have tools capable of doing this The local police department will have the tools ...


8

I think ABUS is one of the most respectable, perhaps THE most respectable bike-lock manufacturer around. They have even some numbered levels of protection, the higher the level the higher the protection, even agains powertools (because of special steel alloys, and such). They have some combination padlocks, which seem very interesting. Take a look at these ...


8

For quill stems, you can use a rubber cement to glue a ball-bearing into the socket on the stem bolt, making it so you can't get at it with an allen key. You'd obviously want to use a glue that can be removed with a solvent, so that you'd be able to do regular service.


8

I've seen videos showing people stealing bikes amidst a crowd of onlookers while no one intervenes. Locking in a crowded place isn't necessarily going to save your bike. On the other hand, lots of bikes are stolen from locked garages. I'm not aware of any statistics about what storage method is safer. I've never had a bike stolen, but from what I've heard ...


8

Have you tried a well-aimed hammer blow while the key is turned in an attempt to use inertial force (instead of spring force) to move the latch piece? Start with taps at first. Have you tried some lubricant injected into the latch hole, in combination with #1? If both fail, then you have to go with brute force. An angle grinder is the easiest way to get a ...


8

It turns out that one of the bolts doesn't retract with the locking mechanism (the lock is bolted at each end rather than a hooked end and a single bolt). Here's a full writeup in case it helps anyone with similar difficulties (I couldn't find much online). With gravity to help, the lock works OK,* but with the dodgy end at the bottom it doesn't unlock. ...


8

You might have a bit more luck doing things the other way around - go to the Sold Secure web site and read off a list of compliant locks. When I was buying, I took this approach, chose the locks and then bought them online. Also, bear in mind that Sold Secure originated in the UK, so possibly lock manufacturers who sell mostly outside of the UK market might ...


7

I've mounted lights with similar clamps on carbon forks with no ill effect (just have to be very careful not to over-tighten the clamp) but a lock -- which is heavy -- might put a too much torque on such a small clamp. Maybe if you could spread out the area over which the clamp attaches to the frame then it might be ok. What about attaching the U-lock ...



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