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No. Older bicycles are no harder to work on than modern bicycles provided you have specialized knowledge regarding older standards, possibly specialized tools and the ability to obtain parts designed for older standards. Generally a bicycle built now will likely conform to a set of standards that are common and in place now. If you bought a bike today, ...


4

It would still be helpful if you posted a photo, but I think I can answer without it! The first major dimension of a bottom bracket is its width. If you have a metric ruler or tape, simply place it underneath the bottom bracket shell. There aren't a bunch of standards super close together so you'll easily get this one right. 68mm is really common and would ...


4

There was a questionnaire on Bikeforums on this topic and here you can see the results: Brifters - how reliable are they? 39 people gave their votes and obviously for most people brifters did not break at all. The second question is about working optimally. To be honest I am yet to see a brifter which does not work optimally. Brifters have very little to no ...


3

There's two different situations here. The first time disks are set up after installation can be a lot of work. The calipers need to be fixed in the right position, which can involve a special tool to shave a little off the mounts to get them square and parallel to each other, then some precise setting of the mounting adapters and positioning of the caliper ...


3

You can buy 30 meter rolls of cable housing such as http://www.wiggle.co.uk/transfil-gear-casing-30m-box/ . I would opt for Shimano or Transfil, as have seen problems with the much cheaper Clarkes. Brake cable housings have a completely different construction to shifters. The housing is a coiled sheath , compared to the axial strands in shifter housing. ...


3

hi I think I found a solution to the problem. my handlepost on my MUXL would get loose after 2 commutes so what I did was I unscrewed the two bolts halfway that fix up to the stem and put loctitie on the threads and tightened them up and then loosened them an eight or a quarter (cant have them tight or you wont be able to open the latch) then I tightened the ...


3

You mention a number of manufacturers there, but to be honest it's not so much the bike manufacturers you need to think about (there is no "standard frame"), its the manufacturers of the components - the groupset - which fit onto the frame. The key players there are Shimano, SRAM and (in some places, for road bikes only), Campagnolo. These companies are ...


3

It is always strongly recommended (by the manufacturers, I read it on Shimano's instruction sheet) not to lubricate a new cable when you're installing it. The reason is that both cable and housing are teflon-coated at the factory and lubrication could destroy that. When a cable loses the ability to move freely it is best replaced together with the housing.


3

At first glance I see the problem you are having . Those are NOT friction shifters . They are positron shifters . Research Shimano Positron Shifters for a more definitive explanation This was Shimano's earlier attempt at an indexed gear system. Also known as "Positive Pre-Select" or PPS. The main differences are that the indexing is in the deraileur ...


2

1.37 x 24T is the big threadings, its 1.37 inches across and 24 threads per inch (so you need to turn it 24 times to advance it 1 inch) Also check Saint Sheldon's info at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html Based on that I guess you want a 3NN bottom bracket cartridge, but do use a ruler/calipers to confirm all the dimensions. Your other option is to ...


2

This is an opinion question. But this is my take on it. I have bar-end shifters on our tandem, brifters on my race and commuter bikes, and downtube shifters on a training bike. They are all extremely reliable. The bar-end shifters that I have are indexed, but they can be adjusted to run in a 'friction mode'. That is handy for swapping rear-wheels ...


2

If I understand your question your concern is the area of cable that is normally exposed.. The sections that run along the top tube or the rear stays. I bought a 300 meter coil of 1/8" id plastic tubing. Look on E bay or Amazon or similar.


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My brifters date from 1997 and are "early tech" When I got it, they shifted poorly, with a really annoying habit of changing down and then not changing back up. I blasted them with brake cleaner and various oils and fluids which helped, but the only fix was a teardown and soak the guts of it in petrol for a day, to soften the old hardened grease. Now it ...


1

The reliability depends on the quality of the brifter itself but, for most brifters, all you need to maintain, adjust, and them and keep them in good working condition is a hex key set, some spray degreaser, and a high quality grease. I use mostly sram brifters and they just work when they are set up right. To keep them in good working order I remove the ...


1

Quick answer: No. All modern bike, with modern components (not cheap bike!) is adequately easy to adjust and replace. They are (mostly) standardised now. Working on bikes has its own merits, as long as you can find parts. I guess it will be expensive trying to repair something that is already depreciated, in term of technology and manufacturing. Whether a ...


1

Try taking the tire off the rim, an use Krazy glue to shut-close the cut. Then boot the tire from the inside. If you have an old useless inner tube, cut a nice piece and use it to glue it inside the tire. I have put about well over 2000 miles after I did three of these repairs from 1" screw-incurred flats on my rear tire in my commuter bike.



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