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4

I'm kind of confused here. You say you can only click 8 times. On a 9 speed bike, there would only be 8 clicks for shifting. Let's say you start on the largest gear, and we'll call that 1. Clicking 1 time with bring you to gear 2. Clicking 2 times will bring you to 3. Clicking 3 times with bring you to 4. Continuing on with the pattern will bring you on to ...


0

A bent derailleur can still be a problem even if you can reach the extremes of the cassette -- since you said you don't think it is a problem, it sounds like you haven't actually checked it, so check it. Park Tool has an excellent page on checking derailleur adjustment. You also said you replaced the cables + housing -- if these have been routed ...


4

My current favorite reference on the mess that is bottom bracket compatibility is this BikeRadar article. To summarize the BikeRadar article: "Conventional Threaded: Standard 24mm external type (Shimano Hollowtech II [, Shimano Octalink], SRAM/Truvativ GXP, Campagnolo Ultra-Torque, FSA MegaExo, Race Face X-Type, etc), square taper, ISIS, BB386 EVO" can ...


1

As I understand FSA has all kinds of BB standards I don't have a sure answer for you, but if the splines match up and the crank sits securely then its a go. however you may find that due to crank/bb compatibility, the crank may actually sit further out or further in which will thus affect your chainline which then affects your shifting. Additionally the ...


2

I had a similar issue last year. The threads on the frame to take the bottom bracket were too worn to hold the bottom bracket in place. A bike mechanic should be able to confirm this for you (for no fee). After some research I found two solutions, one of which is considerably cheaper than the other: 1: bike frame specialists / frame refurbishers can re cast ...


0

Check your tire pressure regularly. Different tires (tubes, actually) have different "leak down" rates, but at a very minimum check once a week, and probably every 3 days (or before every ride). Clean/lube your chain. Depends a lot on riding conditions, but in "average" conditions you should clean/lube every 200 miles or so. More often in wet, sloppy ...


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This is a quick fix, having brakes is safer than not having brakes, but I would not use this as an alternative to properly bleeding brakes, you're not guaranteed to get all the air out. This kid has much bigger problems than air in his brakes, did you notice his hose fitting? His "burping" hack isn't going to last long because he's sucking air straight into ...


2

You aren't assured of getting all the air out of the system. If your bubbles are further down and this doesn't remove them, you may actually introduce more air than you remove when you replace the cap. You won't effect a fluid change this way. You won't replace the crush bolts and other pieces swapped at the true bleed that are potential sources of ...


2

Checking the tension on a Brooks saddle is part of the regular maintainance. Any bolt that doesn't have sufficient tension on it will move due to random road vibration. From http://www.brooksengland.com/getting-in-touch/faqs/saddle_maintenance/ Q: Why have the Rails / Tension Pin / Backplate on my Brooks saddle broken? By far the most common cause ...


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It depends on how far below freezing you are riding. In close to freezing temperatures, where slush and muck are an issue, a wet lube offers better protection despite it's increased viscosity and resistance. At colder temperatures where slush is no longer an issue (15F/-10C) you should consider a dry lube. It will offer less resistance while riding and ...


1

Winterize your freehub body. This kind of failure is common in colder temperatures and a hub acting like this should not be ridden. In addition to the safety issue, you can destroy your freehub with partial engagement. The freehub needs to be disassembled, the factory grease cleaned out of it and regreased with a winter weight grease.


1

You're not going to be able to buy just the floor stand without the clamp unless you chance to buy one at a yard sale or on ebay, you might be able to contact Park Tool and ask them if they can send you just the floor stand without the clamp as a replacement part, but I doubt it for that particular stand. My advice would be to just buy the new stand, ...



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