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If you're a weight weenie then your frame wouldn't even have those mounts. Removing the screws might save you 10-20 grammes, which is less than a good dollop of mud, or under half a snackbar, or a quarter the weight of your spare tube. If you're worried about rust, remove screw and apply some grease then refit. If you're really worried about rust on the ...


I wouldn't. You won't know where they are if you ever need them.


Generally, parts are somewhat standardized. For example, bottom brackets only come in a few types and different size. Given its a recent department store bike, you likely have a standard square taper bottom bracket with ISO threading. You can take the relevant measurements (spindle length, shell width, etc.), but the easiest way for bottom brackets is ...


I'd get a new chain and use a chain tool next time. The links have rivets in them which are hard to push out without a chain tool (and other tools can weaken the chain leading to failure, especially with a cockamamie way like you're trying). Given that a cheap chain tool is 10-15 dollars it's a worthy investment relative to the cost of a replacement chain. ...


Since the rings, cogs and chain are new, and decent components we can safely eliminate the possibility that there is a problem with the chain grabbing the rings or cogs. Here is what I suspect might be happening: it's your derailleur: due to wear, damage or perhaps weakened springs. Here is how: as you pedal, the chain temporarily catches in the derailleur ...


On the assumption that everything was fitted properly, my first guess would be chain is too long, my second would be that derailleur adjustment is required, but this guess doesn't specifically fit your description of "hard" pedalling. But these are only guesses, remember, maybe your LBS can help you some more.


I got a new wheel/rim and new brake pads and they had a terrible high-pitch squeak/squeal when braking. Tried all of the options suggested first - alcohol cleaning, toe-in - none helped much. Last option I read on some other web site is to use a wet rag with some commercial dish/pot cleaning powder - like Comet (US) or Vim (UK, Africa, elsewhere) - ...


The seals will age over time, and air will leak in. Surprised (but not so much) that your LBS didn't suggest you have the seals replaced the second time you showed up. Undoubtedly available on Amazon.


I use 8 oz. flip-top bottles. They're inexpensive, easy to find, and the top does double duty as a spot applicator. They cost forty-seven cents a piece. I bought four so I could have extra bottles of lube in my car, on my bikes, and in my garage. Their 2-3 business day shipping was very reasonable for where I live (Maryland).


Likely two things. Bearing seals will slow down free spinning. In actual use the added resistance from the seals is minimal and the seals ensure the bearings remained greased and in good working order despite the weather conditions (e.g., from dry and dusty, to wet and gritty). SPD-SL are weighted so that the single sided pedal platform faces you (i.e., ...


Motor oil is as good as any other fantasy chain lubes. What should be kept in mind is the motor oil is fresh and not leftover extract while servicing a vehicle. If the instructions are to re-lube (after cleaning) after every few rides, then there will not be a problem with motor oil even. If one wants to keep the lubrication longer, the thicker the ...

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