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If it is corrosion, a scouring pad, as used for dishes, might be used very lightly. Follow it with a coating of oil which you wipe off soon but do not wash down. Before you ride again, check whether the grip is slick or clean to your grip, you might need to wash off the oil before you ride, clean re-oil after riding. Do not sandpaper, nor use anything else ...


I don't think you can. It looks to me like the anodized surface layer has worn off, exposing the plain aluminum.


I have some entrance level Shimano hydraulic brakes (bl-m445; br-m445) and while trying to bleed them, I accidentally overtightened the bleed nipple thus resulting in the threads being busted. I put some teflon tape on it and reinstalled it in the caliper, then resorted to burping the system. Although it took a while (max 15 mins) I managed to get from ...


I think the rust on the pad surfaces will go away on its own when you use the brakes. It's probably just a thin layer on the surface. I don't think it hurts the brake disks, since rusted metal is softer than the original metal before rusting. The rust on the backing material probably doesn't matter much either, since you were still able to remove the pads ...


If you clean the pads with some brake cleaner and a brush and they just look rusty, it's not necessarily a problem provided your brakes are grippy and effective. If clean them and replace any bent discs and your problems go away, you're probably safe as long as you keep a close eye on things. In other words, if your brakes are grippy, quiet, and smooth, a ...


Rust or other build-up on your pads is not an issue if you have enough surface left. Depending on the bran 1-2mm on either side is plenty. If your brakes aren't biting properly clean the pads and rotors with rubbing alcohol. Use an old toothbrush for the pads and a clean rag for the rotors.


Rust on the surfaces of the pads & disc could cause extra wear & noise, or if bad enough reduce the effectiveness of the brakes. If there is enough present that you can see residue on your finger after rubbing the surface, I would suggest cleaning with a stiff bristled brush or a kitchen scrubber & isopropyl alcohol (some people have recommended ...


I have seen a situation where a internal-geared hub is used with a standard rim, and the (large) diameter of the hub results in the spokes approaching the rim at a fairly sharp angle (made worse by this being a 26" bike). This results in excess fatigue at the nipples and resulting spoke breakage there. Not sure how to fix this other than to get a new rim ...


The most common way is to use a "Chain Wear Indicator Gauge" tool. (google for product pages). If you don't have access to (or don't want to buy) one, you can use a ruler: http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

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