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9

The ones I've seen shouldn't wear any faster than the rest of the chain because the wear surfaces are the same - what's different are the side plates (and the notch around the end of the pin). If you look closely at how the powerlink is built it has the same elements as the rest of the chain, they're just held in place differently. The only time I've had ...


4

Given the fact that the outer plates are deformed in the same direction, I believe you're probably cranking on the pedals way too hard when you're shifting. Are you waiting too long to downshift in the front when starting up an incline? Are you standing while shifting? Are your forcing the front derailleur by putting excessive pressure on the shift lever? ...


3

Campagnolo have 2 types of 10 speed chain, 6.2mm and 5.88mm (Ultra Narrow). If you have the older C10 chain you will need a 6.2mm master link. Measure the chain to confirm the width but this is likely the issue.


3

I've been in a number of situations where I was really glad to have a master link that I could pull apart. I'm a big fan of Sram's chains, and they're pretty reasonably priced here in the US. In your position, I'd try hard to find a chain with a master link. With that in mind, it's worth having (and even carrying with you) a spare master link. If you ...


3

In general a SRAM or KMC link for an 8 or 9 speed chain will work fine with a similar Shimano 8 or 9 speed chain. If you are dealing with a 10 speed chain I believe you will run into a compatibility problem as one brand is sightly narrower than the other (I can't remember which way and I only deal personally with 9 speed or lower). I've used a SRAM power ...


2

There's an implicit question about why master links are much more popular in 9 speed (and 10 speed, and no doubt 11 speed too) that I'll answer. It's actually fairly challenging to get a 9 speed chain joined with a chain tool such that it both runs smoothly and is reliable. For 9 speed chain it's possible, with practice, to accomplish it, but I don't think ...


2

I tried a master link, but for all that it was supposed to be tool-less, I couldn't lock it closed without pliars, and later I couldn't take it appart without tools. It may have been I didn't know what I was doing, but since then I just use the chain tool. Hope this helps.


2

It's not so much that reusing the link increases the chance that the pins or plates that the Powerlock is made up of will fail, but rather that it increases the chance that the link will come apart the same way it was put together. Each time you remove that link it wears down the "ridge" that snaps the pins in place on their opposing plates. This increases ...


1

I had my master link fail on the weekend. It had been reused 5 times, and separated itself from the rest of the chain at the base of a 4k climb. Will be replacing it each time from now on. I was lucky that the chain didn't go through the spokes, damage the bike or go under the wheel and cause a pile up.


1

Most master links I have used are designed to fit into the the "barrels" of the smaller links and never actually touch the sprockets, in that sense, there shouldn't be much wear on them. The master link is designed to be removed and so it has more moving parts than the other links and this makes it SLIGHTLY weaker. Unless you are cranking the snot of of your ...


1

What you're looking for is also called a master link chain. A search on Youtube brings up several videos: ...



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